Does NuFinish remove stains?

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snowman

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I've noted that a number of you use NuFinish as a media additive when tumbling. I've been looking for something that I can pick up locally, and NuFinish fits the bill there. However, I'm wondering if it scours as well as polishes, so that staining is removed. I know that stained brass really doesn't hurt anything, but I would like it clean; also I would like my additive to reduce tumbling time. So, for those who have used it, what is your assessment?

As always, thank you, friends.
Andy
 
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I have used Brasso with walnut shells and it will remove all but the most heavy "brown" stains when tumbling. You have to add it while it is tumbling with the brass in, because too much will start to lump.
 
mineral spirits in a coffee can and let it set overnight. drain and rinse with water. put on a towel and let dry completely and tumble for an hour or two
in your media with nufinish in it. it should come out shiny.
 
Go to the supermarket or Wal Mart. Find in the cleaning section where the Comet and Ajax stuff is. Find Barkeepers Friend. I use it in the kitchen, boat anything stainless,brass, copper etc. yes even used it on some stainless guns. It is mild oxalic acid.

Put a few spoon fulls in enough water to cover your brass mix it well soak for a 15 minutes or so. Rinse real well it will leave a white residue if you don't. Let dry out in the Sun on a towel.

Wear your Sun glasses:cool::cool:

You may never tumble again:D
 
Be aware that some harsh "cleaner" can damage the brass, especially those containing ammonia.
 
I am surprised no one went ballistic over the "Brasso" suggestion which does contain ammonia.;) Repeated use of it is believed to weaken brass.

Mild acids like vinegar, citric, oxalic. when diluted in water and rinsed well will not harm the brass.
 
snowman said:
I've noted that a number of you use NuFinish as a media additive when tumbling. I've been looking for something that I can pick up locally, and NuFinish fits the bill there. However, I'm wondering if it scours as well as polishes, so that staining is removed. I know that stained brass really doesn't hurt anything, but I would like it clean; also I would like my additive to reduce tumbling time. So, for those who have used it, what is your assessment?

As always, thank you, friends.
Andy
Click to expand...

But the question is, why is your brass stained? What kind of media do you use (corn, walnut)? Do you change it often.? Did you use a NEW dryer sheet in it.? That will leave a gunky mess that streaks the brass.

If the media is fresh (I use 50:50) some Nu finish and it takes maybe 2 hours to clean it.

I posted a "test" here on the forum and used just corn, just walnut and the 50:50 with Nu Finish and the results where all the same.
 
Rule3 said:
Go to the supermarket or Wal Mart. Find in the cleaning section where the Comet and Ajax stuff is. Find Barkeepers Friend. I use it in the kitchen, boat anything stainless,brass, copper etc. yes even used it on some stainless guns. It is mild oxalic acid.

Put a few spoon fulls in enough water to cover your brass mix it well soak for a 15 minutes or so. Rinse real well it will leave a white residue if you don't. Let dry out in the Sun on a towel.

Wear your Sun glasses:cool::cool:

You may never tumble again:D
Click to expand...

Darn, here I go to the store for Barkeepers Friend.
 
Rule3 said:
But the question is, why is your brass stained?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I left you with a false impression. Very little of it is. I just looked through a 50rd. box and only 2 had faint stains. Had I not run out of the Flitz additive that I've always used, there would have been none. I was just looking to see if there was an alternative that I wouldn't have to have shipped to me.


Rule3 said:
What kind of media do you use (corn, walnut)?
Click to expand...

Walnut.

Rule3 said:
Do you change it often.?
Click to expand...

As soon as it needs it, but not before. It isn't cheap in this area.



Rule3 said:
Did you use a NEW dryer sheet in it.? That will leave a gunky mess that streaks the brass.
Click to expand...

No; I've been tumbling brass for a number of years -long enough to know better than to do that.

Andy
 
snowman said:
Sorry, I left you with a false impression. Very little of it is. I just looked through a 50rd. box and only 2 had faint stains. Had I not run out of the Flitz additive that I've always used, there would have been none. I was just looking to see if there was an alternative that I wouldn't have to have shipped to me.

Andy
Click to expand...

Well now you tell us:D

Hurry on down to Wally Mart and get some Nu Finish.;)
If it is untreated media maybe 4 cap fulls for the first dose. Let it run for a while with no brass to spread it around, Then you can add a squirt every so often.
 
Rule3 said:
I am surprised no one went ballistic over the "Brasso" suggestion which does contain ammonia.;) Repeated use of it is believed to weaken brass.

Mild acids like vinegar, citric, oxalic. when diluted in water and rinsed well will not harm the brass.
Click to expand...

The same thought hit me. Brasso is a no-no in my book. I tried it early in my reloading career (pre-internet ). My 38 brass seemed to split prematurely after several uses.

FWIW, I'm a new finish and walnut convert these days.
 
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Use walnut to CLEAN
Use corncob to POLISH
Adding liquid polishes to corncob increases the mechanical polishing, and corncob acts as as soft "polishing pad", holding the liquid polish abrasives and buffing the brass. Walnut isn't soft enough for this, and less porous.
I don't think it matters what brand of polish you add, as long as it doesn't contain ammonia or acids - they are all basically powder+ solvent or water+ wax. You could probably get away with using extra fine rubbing compound - haven't tried it yet.
I would suggest running the brass through untreated cob as final step to make sure there is NO abrasive powder left in or on the cases.

I had some stained 50 Beowulf brass new from Starline (about the same size as a 500 case). They all had dark splotches that nothing would remove. The only thing that worked was wet tumbling with stainless media, 1/4 tsp citric acid, and dish soap.
Wet tumbling is all I do now, since it cleans the inside of cases and primer pockets so well, but it will not produce a mirror finish like polishes do.
When I tried to use more than 1/4 tsp of citric acid to 1 gal water, I ended up with darkened brass after drying. (yes it was well rinsed ). So I think acids should be used in moderation. Anything strong enough to etch the brass is not good for it.

Lastly, I buy the walnut at pet supply stores for a fraction of the cost of the same stuff sold at reloading supply shops. At the pet stores it is sold as "reptile bedding" and in very large bags.
 
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You think Jerry really cleans his own brass

I bet he has Minions do it for him.:D

Did he size that brass before measuring??:confused:

I have a smaller scale version:

 
Wee Hooker said:
I'M a Jerry fan too but this method is Overkill IMHO. Cement mixers, drying ovens, staging screens..... Really? Who's got that kind of time, room and equipment?? I'll stick to a simple toss into the vibrator with some walnut and polish.
It's worked pretty well for the last 25 years.
Click to expand...
+1
Shoot, decap, toss into walnut w/ dash of NF, reload & repeat. Throw a dryer sheet into that nasty media once in awhile too.
I think the Miculek's are awesome, but his setup is a wee bit o' overkill for me also. For Christ's sake, I have a job...which doesn't actually involve any reloading/shooting... unfortunately. :D
 
HOPSTER said:
What is the dryer sheet supposed to do ? make the walnut smell purty ? Eliminate static on your brass ?
Click to expand...

Sir,

It absorbs some of the residue from used media, thereby extending the media's life somewhat. The sheet MUST be one that has already gone through the dryer.

Regards,
Andy
 
I've found that adding Nufinish to either walnut or corncob improves the capability of both.
 
snowman said:
Sir,

It absorbs some of the residue from used media, thereby extending the media's life somewhat. The sheet MUST be one that has already gone through the dryer.

Regards,
Andy
Click to expand...
OK then. Do people believe that because the used dryer sheet becomes dirty that it is really doing something of significance ? It is pressed synthethic fiber, inert as it comes from the dryer. Why wouldnt an old cotton T-shirt rag do the same thing ?
Please pardon my sceptical curiosity here. I have questioned popular ideas such as this my whole life and have found some to be in err, and I mean no disrespect by doing so.

Sort of related - I used to wash my dirty media in hot water and Simple Green, fairy strong. It took several days of rinsing, letting it settle, pour off water, rinse again. Fine mesh bags helped speed things up. But in the end i was doing 60 bucks in labor to save 5 bucks worth of media .......
 
No it does not have to be a dryer sheet. We so not use them in the laundry although I have tried them.

A small rag or blue paper shop towel works also (the blue is a little stronger) I put some Nu Fish or whatever liquid or spray wax that is cheap on it, The object is to remove the dust from the media which sometimes gets on the brass.

As mentioned washing media is ridiculous. For the price it is so cheap and all you are doing is spreading the toxic chemicals around. There was someone who posted putting it a bag and washing in the family washer.:rolleyes:

I did a test (there is a thread here but pictures remove) I used straight, corn, straight walnut and 50:50 there was no difference in visual appearance of the brass.

The main thing is change it when it's dirty. it works better.

Unfortunately Drill Spot is not charging shipping so that great deal of 40 lbs delivered is gone. There is another place but I am not telling;)
 
HOPSTER said:
OK then. Do people believe that because the used dryer sheet becomes dirty that it is really doing something of significance ? It is pressed synthethic fiber, inert as it comes from the dryer. Why wouldnt an old cotton T-shirt rag do the same thing ?
Please pardon my sceptical curiosity here. I have questioned popular ideas such as this my whole life and have found some to be in err, and I mean no disrespect by doing so.

Sort of related - I used to wash my dirty media in hot water and Simple Green, fairy strong. It took several days of rinsing, letting it settle, pour off water, rinse again. Fine mesh bags helped speed things up. But in the end i was doing 60 bucks in labor to save 5 bucks worth of media .......
Click to expand...


Hopster,

I didn't pioneer the idea; I listened to a large number of folks on this forum recommend it(As you say, it's a "popular" idea.). I was skeptical too, but tried it and found it does help somewhat, but not nearly as much as I had hoped. Sometimes I don't bother.

I'm sure as you said one can use pieces of tee shirts and so on and get a similar result.

Regards,
Andy
 
I used the soap and water wash because I knew it worked. Whatever collects on your dryer sheets, T-shirt scrap, paper towels etc is probably a small percentage of the actual dirt that's in there, but I have to agree it's better than nothing.

I'm certain that it makes people "feel better" about it when they see the dirty dryer sheets after a run through. Similar to people "feeling better" about mirror finished brass. It's a step that we take for gratification, but with no other return for the investment.
On the other hand, there is some evidence that having "confidence" in the hand loaded ammo results in better scores for competitors, so ... polish away:o
 
I'm not putting a lot of effort into cleaning tumbling media when a great big bag of it is only $12-15 at the pet store. A couple, three uses and out it goes.
 
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