ejector pin question

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The two small pins that come from the cylinder through the ejector, one is missing on my 29. It is not broke off just gone. Do they just press back in? How important is it? The ejector doesnt seem to be effected at all. Any advice appriciated.
 
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Bobby six, those pins should be in place ! Not so much to realign the ratchet after ejecting empties, but, when the cylinder hand advances a cylinder full of ammo there is quite a bit of torque required at the ratchet.
My cure for replacement was learned here on this forum. Find a selection of small drill bits,with just the correct diameter. Cut to size,round off the protruding end,use some red locktite and install.
Lift the extractor star and hold up with a ( in my case) wine cork.
In later years S & W devised a different way of ratchet alignment, by slanting the very edges of 4 of the 6 ratchet star points to mate with their slots, and no pins at all. Poor decision in my opinion, as the firm fitment of the ratchet plays an intregal part of cylinder timing/carry-up.
 
I use blank drill rod, but yes an actual drill bit will also work. You might want to remove the EJR rod first to keep it from being damaged. If you do remember to insert empty cases before unscrewing the left handed threaded rod. Do the same when reinstalling.
 
ejector pins

These pins are available. Look on the internet...they're about $2-$3 each-however the stainless are more difficult to find. They also have a rounded end so the ratchet locator holes enter smoothly. If you use a drillbit end, chuck it up first and stone off the sharp edge and 'ramp' it a bit.

Use a bit of purple locktite on them. In the day, it was standard practice for the FBI armorers to use a staking tool- like a steel punch with the center drilled out and remaining edges sharpened- to tighten these by using the staking tool to press the surrounding metal closer to the pins. I machined one although never have seen the 'FBI style' occasionally mentioned.
 
S&W sells those as parts. They are cheap, though shipping might add to the cost. It would be best if you could find several parts you could use and order them all at the same time.
 
These pins are available. Look on the internet...they're about $2-$3 each-however the stainless are more difficult to find. They also have a rounded end so the ratchet locator holes enter smoothly. If you use a drillbit end, chuck it up first and stone off the sharp edge and 'ramp' it a bit.

Use a bit of purple locktite on them. In the day, it was standard practice for the FBI armorers to use a staking tool- like a steel punch with the center drilled out and remaining edges sharpened- to tighten these by using the staking tool to press the surrounding metal closer to the pins. I machined one although never have seen the 'FBI style' occasionally mentioned.

Interesting you mention that fact. I took three or four classes from Lester Limerick...the master himself...on shotguns and S&W revolvers, and this was the standard method and 'special tool' used by them. Works a charm! Pretty sure Lester gave us drawings so we could machine our own. Sadly I lost all that paperwork.
 
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