Extractor rod too tight! Can't unthread it!
- Thread starter pokute
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TSQUARED
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It should be right threaded. Out od curiosity why do you want to take it apart - leave well enough alone!
john traveler
Member
All S&W revolver extractor rods were right-hand thread until the engineering changes in the late 1950's that made them left-hand threads.
To clean and lube. It probably hasn't been apart for 60 years.
minconrevo
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Why don't you just soak it a while in Kriol to clean, then DON'T take it apart? If it's just gummy, a good soaking should do the trick.
Those old RH thread rods don't grow on trees anymore, if you thrash the threads or otherwise loose it.
Those old RH thread rods don't grow on trees anymore, if you thrash the threads or otherwise loose it.
andyo5
Member
Whatever you do, don't end up cranking on it in the wrong direction. Current ejector rods unscrew clockwise (opposite of normal screw threads). Not sure about the 1948 model year. Call S&W customer service and ask them if you are unsure.
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that gun will be just fine with out the takedown...i suspect you may find trouble...and for no reason
scooter123
Member
Think again. The thread for the ejector rod is a VERY fine pitch thread and that means that it's very easy to cross thread it when putting it back together. If you cross thread it and then try and force it back together you'll trash both the ejector rod and the extractor star. I'm with all the others, if it aint broke, don't fix it.
Unscrewing the ejector rod is no more a part of regular long-term maintenance than is unscrewing the barrel from the frame or removing the firing pin from the hammer. It is of course your revolver and you can of course do with it as you please. But, a number of very experience persons have advised you to leave it alone. That is absolutely the best course of action to take.
I'm not an experienced person but I also say leave it alone.
If needing cleaned & lubed, there's ways to do that without the hassle of
dis-assembly.
Jefftyler
Member
I just take the cylinder assembly off the frame and clean it really well once and a while. No since making it any harder than you have to.
I appreciate the warnings, but I've done this before on other guns, and it makes getting the cylinder and ejector properly clean much easier, with much less danger of marring the finish on the cylinder, crane, and frame. I wanted to avoid the possibility of cranking it the wrong way, so I asked here in the forum. I got the answer I needed, thanks. I also ordered the proper tool from Brownell's.
TrillPointOh
Member
Heat it up a bit?
Hosing the inside of the cylinder yoke bore out with a good aersol gum cutter works well. About the only time it's necessary to remove the ejector rod assembly is if lead buildup on the yoke/inside the cylinder yoke bore is causing drag. Since your pistol has a gas ring to help shield this area, this isn't a real likely situation.
Besides using the proper tool, don't forget to put at least 2 fired cases in the chambers to act as anti-rotation devices before trying to remove the ejector rod. Frankly, I'd be inclined to leave it alone, but if you simply must try to remove it, soak the cylinder and rod in kerosene or Kroil at least 24 hours to work on any rust that might have formed. BTW, when I say soak, I mean put the cylinder assembly in a jar and cover it with the liquid till the front face of the cylinder is under the surface.
BE AWARE-it may have been overtorqued 60 odd years ago and that trying to remove it just may damage things.
Besides using the proper tool, don't forget to put at least 2 fired cases in the chambers to act as anti-rotation devices before trying to remove the ejector rod. Frankly, I'd be inclined to leave it alone, but if you simply must try to remove it, soak the cylinder and rod in kerosene or Kroil at least 24 hours to work on any rust that might have formed. BTW, when I say soak, I mean put the cylinder assembly in a jar and cover it with the liquid till the front face of the cylinder is under the surface.
BE AWARE-it may have been overtorqued 60 odd years ago and that trying to remove it just may damage things.
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lee_radio
Member
what do you mean the right tools? all you need is a vice... right?
i'd like to remove the ejector rod for a thorough clean on my 629 performance center as well but unfortunately i'm having the same issue... guess it's safer to just soak it in one of those ultra sonic cleaners.
There's allot of things most people are scared of doing. Once you've done it a few times it's just a routine.
Power Custom Revolver Extractor Rod Removal Tool
Power Custom Revolver Extractor Rod Removal Tool
wiley
Member
Well, I'd say that's a good tool, except I was the bozo that wrote the review! I needed the tool to replace a bent ejector rod and I had to remove the straight rod from a spare cylinder assembly.
Wouldn't have done that just to clean it, but the wrench is also handy for other ejector rods that are always loose.
Wouldn't have done that just to clean it, but the wrench is also handy for other ejector rods that are always loose.
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You truly don't need a special tool. Since you had said it was so tight, I would soak it in Kroil or similar penetration oil overnight before proceeding
1) remove cylinder from gun, and place in vise (ejector rod end in vise) with padded vise jaws in place - I use stiff 1/4" thick leather.
2) Insert EMPTY cartridge cases in chambers
3) With your hand turn cylinder counter clock wise as your revolver has right hand threads (unless of course the Ejector rod and parts were replaced at one time in he past.
That should do it.
1) remove cylinder from gun, and place in vise (ejector rod end in vise) with padded vise jaws in place - I use stiff 1/4" thick leather.
2) Insert EMPTY cartridge cases in chambers
3) With your hand turn cylinder counter clock wise as your revolver has right hand threads (unless of course the Ejector rod and parts were replaced at one time in he past.
That should do it.
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Stophel
Member
I do it whenever I get a "new" gun. There's usually gunky oil in there, plus, I polish everything to minimize the mill marks to make extraction nice and smooth. It's not a big deal, usually (they can sometimes be difficult to break loose... just remember which direction the threads go!!!). Leather pad in a vise and shells in the chambers is usually all it takes. Grip as much of the rod as possible to get the most purchase upon it. Never, never, never, never attempt to grab the knurled end with pliers or something, padded or not.
