Factory 357 Magnum ammunitions' primers

Naphtali

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Among factory 357 Magnum ammunition what cartridges have the most difficult to ignite primers?

Among small pistol magnum primers for handloading, which are the most difficult to to ignite?

The reason for such two questions is I want to determine by firing ammunition just how much I can safely reduce hammer spring power. If I'm asking the wrong questions, please respond to what I should have asked.
 
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Back in the 1980's when I shot a lot of PPC, a lot of guys insisted Federal had the softest primers. I usually used CCI's, considered by many to be a harder primer. Never had any issues, but I didn't use a reduced power mainspring like some guys did.

Larry
 
FWIW, I have seen a lot of info posted about Federal primers that agrees with what Fishinfool posted. In most reloading circles, Federal primers are generally considered to be the easiest to ignite - due to their having softer than average primer cups.

When you look at the packaging for Federal primers, that would seem to make sense. Comparing a brick of Federal primers to other brands, the box is at least 3-4 times larger than a comparable brick of just about any other brand of primers.

Supposedly this is because they are so much easier to ignite, that Federal felt the need to reduce the "density" of their packaging (i.e. use bigger boxes) to reduce the possibility of an accidental chain-fire, where one primer ignites and that causes all the other primers in the box to ignite. Or at least that is the explanation I have read regarding why Federal primer boxes are so much larger than everyone else's.

I've also read that people who use reduced power hammer springs in their revolvers to get a lighter trigger pull, find that even though some primers are literally "hit and miss" - the Federal primers will provide 100% reliable ignition - due to their softer primer cups.

That's just what I've read. I don't modify my revolvers, trying to get the lightest possible trigger for competition, so I haven't experienced this personally. But I've read that people who do modify their revolvers for competition purposes like to use Federal primers for their handloaded competition ammo.

Hope that helps.
 
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CCI used to be the hardest of the domestic primers. Some foreign made primers might be even harder to ignite. I do have to wonder, given that Federal, CCI/Speer, and Remington are now owned by Vista Outdoor, will they remain different or will the components like primers and brass end up being standardized.
 
As the story goes, Federal is the softest, then Remington then Winchester and CCI the hardest. That said, after working on any firearm, the CCI primers are what I use to test it out. If they go bang 100% of the time with CCI, they will work with any others.

If I have even one light strike with a CCI I will increase the weight. That doesn't happen anymore as I have long since developed "the feel" for what works reliably. Personally I would NEVER have a firearm that was primer specific, but that's just me.
 
For determining most difficult to ignite primer, Federal is going the wrong way. CCI?? Maybe.
 
I had a reduced power coil hammer spring in a J frame until at one range visit, I got light hits and no boom. I put the factory spring back in and endure the heavier DA pull so I don't ever have that nightmare scenario as it is a bedstand gun. I have used Wolff springs for trigger return. The lightest ones will not reliably return in fast DA. Next size below factory weight maybe OK. But polishing and smoothing is as important as messing with springs.
 
Has anyone sorted through specialty ammunitions such as Underwood, Grizzly, Swift, Nosler, and so on? These companies that push the limit do not manufacture primers. An exaggeration of what I'm asking is 454 Casull factory pistol ammunition loaded with small rifle primers.
 
The only primers I ever had a problem with was only with one 1911. It was set up as a bullseye shooter. They were Wolf LP Russian primers. I put a heavier hammer spring in and no problems .I got 10,000 for 90 bucks before the pandemic. I sold 3000 during the pandemic shortage for 20 bucks per 1000. They actually worked very well in the 45 auto ammo I loaded with 231.
 
I have two Model 66s with lightened springs for shooting ICORE, IDPA, and USPSA revolver. Their trigger pulls are 7#.
All my competition ammo is loaded with Federal SPP that I bought in quantity 8 years ago.

However, I NEVER carry a revolver for defensive purposes with a trigger pull lighter than 10#, which is heavy enough to fire US commercial ammunition.
 
I always found Winchester primers to be the toughest to fire. Both the plated and unplated can be stubborn. CCI seemed to vary. My Glocks will fire the rifle primers with complete reliability but I never tried rifle primers in any of my revolvers.
 
CCI are NOT the hardest primers out there. At one point I had all of my S&W revolvers tuned to an 8 lbs. DA trigger pull with the exception of my 617. Because I have always loaded with CCI Primers for Rifle and Pistol ammo. Worked very well and was 100% reliable. Note, tried Federal and may have a box or two still but found those shoe boxes to be too bulky to be convenient to store or load into a hand primer.

The situation changed when I purchased a Thumbler's Tumbler and started cleaning my brass with Stainless Steel pins. The pins I purchased from Midway would jam in the flash holes of Speer, Winchester, and Federal brass but never seemed to jam in the flash holes for Remington brass. As I keep a large drill index at my house I used that and found that a 0.082 inch diameter drill would slide freely thru the flash holes for Remington cases but not in all of the Speer, Winchester, and Federal cases I had to start using that size drill bit to open up the flash holes in cases I had on hand. Ever come back from a gun show with 1500 cases bought on the cheap? Yeah, it's a bit of a PITA. So I started purchasing Remington UMC 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, and 357/38 Special. No drilling required at all. However I did have to re-tune all of my revolvers to a 9 lbs. DA trigger pull. Because the weight that was perfectly reliable with CCI was NOT reliable with Remington UMC. Take note, I am a bit of a hoarder having learned from Sandy Hook. So I have a bit of a stash of primers and Remington UMC purchased prior to 2018 when I discovered how much fun Skeet shooting can be. BTW, I now go thru 15,000 shotshell primers per year and what looks like a stash is simply a years supply.
 
The reason for such two questions is I want to determine by firing ammunition just how much I can safely reduce hammer spring power. If I'm asking the wrong questions, please respond to what I should have asked.

Is it just a 'range toy' or will the revolver may have to serve as a 'Self Defense' revolver?

When I was a cop in the revolver era, many a cop made his revolver unserviceable because he thought he needed a 'light trigger'.

In a shooting with your adrenalin pumping you will not notice what your trigger pull is. 'Professional Training' is the most important thing.
 
Is it just a 'range toy' or will the revolver may have to serve as a 'Self Defense' revolver?

When I was a cop in the revolver era, many a cop made his revolver unserviceable because he thought he needed a 'light trigger'.

In a shooting with your adrenalin pumping you will not notice what your trigger pull is. 'Professional Training' is the most important thing.
This is right on point for me. I was forced to change the EDC revolver's custom made more concealable grip because my middle finger's middle knuckle had swelled and deformed. The entire hand is weaker than in the past as well as being uncomfortable during trigger firing. I have altered its hammer that renders it impossible to thumb cock; it can be partially trigger cocked, then thumb cocked for deliberate single action only. At this point it becomes nearly mandatory to reduce pull by way of trigger action. Reduction will be desirable if, as you said, the cartridge goes bang every time hammer drops on one. That's why I'm persistent in wanting to identify what factory ammunition will probably be a serious problem.
 
Naphtali, two points. First is that Remington is a problem ammunition for you. I would suggest that you look for Federal ammunition.

Second point it sounds like you have issues with Arthritis. If that is the case I've been there done that. There was a time when it was painflu for me to sign a paycheck. Fortunately my nephew married a very smart Nurse and when I was staying with them over Christmas she noticed that I had a pretty serious sweet tooth. She told me if I cut back on Sugar my Arthritis would improve and I listened to her. Three years later signing a check is easy and I can even rack the slide on a 45 ACP 1911 with the hammer down. My advice is if you have a sweet tooth it will really help you a lot to get as much sugar out of your diet as is possible. BTW I also have Heart Disease. While it's not easy if you substitute fresh fruit for candy or donuts you'll not only reduce your sugar intake but you'll also be eating something that is actually healthy.
 
As you wrote: been there, done that.

No sweets because no sweet tooth. Fresh organic foods only. . . . Fierce roomie, ex-spouse, current great friend insists it be so.
 
Nap, I’m curious. Full power 357 DA? Are you shooting something like Bowling Pin Matches or self defense? Most competitive shooters have a Dillon, so I assume self defense.

Me personally, I’d want my gun set up so it would reliably light the hardest primers.
 
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