Factory Rebluing for a Model 10

[NY-1]

The first firearm I ever purchased for myself was a well-used Model 10. It's a fantastic shooter and is truly a joy to have around, but I've been contemplating sending it off for a factory rebluing job. The finish is particularly worn on the barrel, cylinder, bottom of the trigger guard, and backstrap. Being that it was my first, the gun has sentimental value. The cost of the reblue exceeding the value of the gun isn't a concern (especially considering I bought it for $325).

I was mostly curious as to whether or not anyone had a gun from this era (the serial number narrows mine down to 1969-1970) sent back for rebluing to see how the new S&W blue compared in terms of luster and color to the older bluing, and if they were satisfied with the results. I primarily clean with Ballistol and would also love to know whether or not it plays nicely with the new bluing.

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On another note, I've noticed a small bit of wear and a metal burr around the bottom left side of the forcing cone. Is this any cause for concern? The cone seems to be in perfectly fine shape otherwise and all of the range shooting I'll be doing will likely be with standard pressure 38 special.

 

[Pine_Worker]

Have you looked at the factory refinish price list? I would contact them to see if they have an example of what to expect.

 

[Jack Flash]

I wouldn't worry about that burr since it obviously doesn't affect the revolver's shooting qualities.

There are a lot of those around. I would just look for one with a better finish if I didn't like the looks of that one.

 

[Tytan01]

I sent in a model 28-3 to be tuned and reblued but it hasn't come back yet. It's going on 2-1/2 months and getting a little anxious.

I've seen other posts in the 1980 to modern revolver section from people who are having blueing issues with the guns they are getting back from S&W. Mottling and blotching and "thin" looking.

As for the cone, have you tried the Lock-Up test on your revolver? Pull the hammer all the way back, hold the trigger in and let the hammer back forward all the way while holding the trigger back. Then use the free hand to move the cylinder and see if you have any play.

If it's tight, it could be a timing issue when the cylinder comes in to line with the barrel and it's slightly off to one side. That is something S&W can check and fix for an additional cost. Hopefully the cone isn't damaged to the point that you'd need a new barrel.

I believe I'll eventually be charged $270 for the full package tuning and $225 for the rebluing. If they ever get to it.

 

[AlHunt]

The usual critiques we see are that the current blue isn't the same deep color of the older blue, actually blacker if I'm remembering the criticisms. And that the new process won't stand up to ammonia type cleaners (Hoppes #9, specifically).

There are other companies that can do an arguably better job (better color, apparently) but they run into more money and the wait times are months, at least. For some it's years.

I'm parroting what I've read here repeatedly over the years. I'm hoping some with direct experience will chime in.

 

[gboling]

I had an old model 14 reblued a few years ago and was happy with it. They also returned it to spec with a new hand and Springs. I had no problems with it and had no idea that it needed anything.

Don't worry about Hoppe's #9 damaging the new finish.

 

[hittman77]

If Bobby Tyler works on double actions, I'd check with him for pricing. His work is excellent and reasonable last time he did something for me.

 

[NY-1]

I wouldn't worry about that burr since it obviously doesn't affect the revolver's shooting qualities.

There are a lot of those around. I would just look for one with a better finish if I didn't like the looks of that one.

Thanks for the input, and I just might end up going that route. Throw some Pachmayrs on this one and find another, prettier one to put the Altamonts (or OEM magnas) on. Maybe even something with a tapered barrel.

Have you looked at the factory refinish price list? I would contact them to see if they have an example of what to expect.

Might give them a ring or shoot them an email to see if they can furnish any examples of work that's been done in the past. Thanks for the suggestion.

I sent in a model 28-3 to be tuned and reblued but it hasn't come back yet. It's going on 2-1/2 months and getting a little anxious.

I've seen other posts in the 1980 to modern revolver section from people who are having blueing issues with the guns they are getting back from S&W. Mottling and blotching and "thin" looking.

As for the cone, have you tried the Lock-Up test on your revolver? Pull the hammer all the way back, hold the trigger in and let the hammer back forward all the way while holding the trigger back. Then use the free hand to move the cylinder and see if you have any play.

If it's tight, it could be a timing issue when the cylinder comes in to line with the barrel and it's slightly off to one side. That is something S&W can check and fix for an additional cost. Hopefully the cone isn't damaged to the point that you'd need a new barrel.

I believe I'll eventually be charged $270 for the full package tuning and $225 for the rebluing. If they ever get to it.

Thanks a bunch. I wish you luck on getting back your Model 28, and would love to see photos when it finally does arrive. I'm hoping that opting for the high-polish option should mitigate a portion of the complaints that some have had with S&W's rebluing services if I choose to send it off. The lockup on this Model 10 is nice and tight when performing the steps you described. The slight burr on the cone (as well as what looks like an abrasion) does seem to be centered more on the outside left of it as opposed to the inside of the cone though. I'll keep my eye on it - if it worsens I'll stop shooting it and send it off. Surely they still have a few Model 10 barrels laying around.

I had an old model 14 reblued a few years ago and was happy with it. They also returned it to spec with a new hand and Springs. I had no problems with it and had no idea that it needed anything.

Don't worry about Hoppe's #9 damaging the new finish.

I'd love to see photos if you have them, especially a before/after set!

 

[just plain joe]

I acquired a Model 10-5 revolver with the standard barrel about three years ago. I contacted S & W about having it reblued as the finish was very worn. Long story short, they said that the bluing process they use no longer contains certain chemicals that contributed to the deep bluing normally associated with their older revolvers. As such I might notice a difference. I sent it in nonetheless. When I received it back, I could discern no difference when compared to an older Model 27-2 in my collection. The job was first rate.

I continue to use Hoppe's No. 9 in my cleaning routine with no adverse effects. Sorry, I have not tried Ballistol.

You may wish to contact the factory and speak with a representative if you have further questions. I found them very helpful.

Good luck!

JPJ

 

[OldChief]

Here's my K38 (1956) that I had factory re-blued a few years ago. I also use Hoppe's #9 with no problems.

 

[Art Doc]

It's your gun and you will do as you please with it. But since you asked, here's my thinking.

You are correct about refinishing being a financial loser. Gun's current value + cost to refinish is likely more than what a refinished M10 is worth. But you say you don't care about money because the gun has sentimental value. OK. But if you refinish it, will it still be the same gun with emotional attachment? It won't look like it. All the wear and handling marks reflect its history. If you remove them, what's left?

 

[NY-1]

I acquired a Model 10-5 revolver with the standard barrel about three years ago. I contacted S & W about having it reblued as the finish was very worn. Long story short, they said that the bluing process they use no longer contains certain chemicals that contributed to the deep bluing normally associated with their older revolvers. As such I might notice a difference. I sent it in nonetheless. When I received it back, I could discern no difference when compared to an older Model 27-2 in my collection. The job was first rate.

I continue to use Hoppe's No. 9 in my cleaning routine with no adverse effects. Sorry, I have not tried Ballistol.

You may wish to contact the factory and speak with a representative if you have further questions. I found them very helpful.

Good luck!

JPJ

Thanks for sharing your experiences, and I'm glad the 10-5 came out great! I'll probably give the factory a call when/if I go this route.

Here's my K38 (1956) that I had factory re-blued a few years ago. I also use Hoppe's #9 with no problems.

Those photos are just what I was looking for. Gorgeous to say the very least, if not a little bit blacker-than-bluer, but not to a detrimental extent in the least bit.

It's your gun and you will do as you please with it. But since you asked, here's my thinking.

You are correct about refinishing being a financial loser. Gun's current value + cost to refinish is likely more than what a refinished M10 is worth. But you say you don't care about money because the gun has sentimental value. OK. But if you refinish it, will it still be the same gun with emotional attachment? It won't look like it. All the wear and handling marks reflect its history. If you remove them, what's left?

I greatly appreciate your input, and you bring up some excellent points. The gun certainly seems to have been through a lot prior to it ending up in my possession, and the wear most definitely gives it character.

Truth be told my sentimental attachment to the gun has always been a bit mixed. On the one hand it's the first gun I ever purchased for myself. I still remember that feeling of awe when I picked it out of the used showcase at my LGS, held it for the first time, and was thoroughly impressed with the Model 10's ergonomics, aesthetics, and simplicity. It was like finally meeting a celebrity in person, haha.

On the other hand, it was always a gun of compromise. The LGS I used to frequent had a very limited revolver section, and this particular example was the only Model 10 they had at the time. I never really liked that the finish was as worn as it was, but the fact that it was one of the cheapest guns in the shop and that I didn't want to leave without a Model 10 pushed me over the edge into buying it. Since then, the wisdom of the words "buy nice or buy twice" has settled in. I think it helped me fall in love with the Model 10, but not necessarily this particular example of one.

I suppose now I'm torn between (1) keeping it as-is and purchasing another Model 10 in better shape, (2) selling it and purchasing another Model 10 in better shape, or (3) keeping it and having it refinished by the factory. I'm hesitant to choose option one because it would just seem like a waste of limited safe space (and a time sink dealing with NYC's regs) to have two identical guns. (Though I could use it to practice assembly/disassembly of an S&W revolver on...) Option two seems like the most sensible thing to do at the moment, but I'll have to rectify precisely what my attachment to this gun is - whether it's the gun or the model. Given the examples I've now seen of factory rebluing I'd be comfortable with option number three, but it would take a significant amount of time and I'd be concerned with the risk of a courier screwing up and losing the thing.

 

[Jessie]

Have you thought about just touching it up with some cold blueing?
I’ve done that, not to hide the age of one, but just to remedy some long use and holster wear.
If done lightly and slowly (think spray painting something by layers) it brings some life back without trying to hide anything.
My 1956 M&P looked similar to your finish and that’s what I did.

 

[WH1]

I sent my model 19 to Ford’s for their deluxe blue. I’m more than pleased with it.

 

[Gary Hogstrom]

My 2cents; Jessy's cold blue job looks like an excellent job. For an older gun that doesn't really justify a re-blue job I think you would
be well served and happy with the cold blue. For the minimal cost and time investment, I think it would be worth a try.

 

[hogblue]

Your revolver has the original carbona blueing. This process is no longer used as EPA stuck there noses in it years ago. If it’s reblued it will be with the new salts. The new process doesn’t hold up as well as the old one. It may look nice but doesn’t stick as well.

I’d be most proud to have an old one with real carbona blueing.

 

[Narragansett]

If the diamond magnas are original do not send them with gun if you send it to S&W

 

[mike from st pete]

Sell the revolver you have now to fund a revolver in better condition.

 

[NY-1]

Have you thought about just touching it up with some cold blueing?
I’ve done that, not to hide the age of one, but just to remedy some long use and holster wear.
If done lightly and slowly (think spray painting something by layers) it brings some life back without trying to hide anything.
My 1956 M&P looked similar to your finish and that’s what I did.

Wow! That came out great. Kudos for your excellent work there. I never really paid much mind to cold bluing - I'll have to do some reading up on it. Thanks.

I sent my model 19 to Ford’s for their deluxe blue. I’m more than pleased with it.

Ford's work never ceases to impress. Assuming they've gotten past that rough patch they supposedly had for a little while it seems like they're an alternate option from the factory worth considering.

If the diamond magnas are original do not send them with gun if you send it to S&W

Those stocks are Altamont checkered classic panels, and they truly do look great. Thanks for the tip though - I'll be sure to remove the stocks from any gun(s) I send off in case.

 

[Jack Flash]

If the diamond magnas are original do not send them with gun if you send it to S&W

May I ask why this advice is given?

Are there reports (or better, firsthand experience) with S&W damaging stocks or "upgrading" them with current inventory?