The 3-inch barreled K-frame revolver is not exactly pocket sized, so I'd leave the hammer spur as-is. If you absolutely must have a bobbed hammer, buy a hammer and cut it or buy one that has already had the spur cut off and save the original hammer.
Finally obtained my CCW. Bobbed hammer or leave it stock? Model 65-3, 3 inch.
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Excuse me for not reading the last three pages, but its probably nothing new. There will be two camps:
- the "bob it" camp who seem to feel a hammer spur is not needed and or is a snag hazard; and
- the leave it alone camp who have never encountered any issues with a hammer snagging (even in pocket carry), and who recognize the value of having a hammer.
I'm in the latter camp.
In 39 years of concealed carry and with extensive revolver carry, I have never had an issue with a hammer snagging. Not one. Ever.
I also shoot DA about 95 percent of the time, but a hammer can be handy for that last 5 percent. I can shoot a clean score on a slightly modified version of the current FBI Q course (adding a reload at the 25 yard line to shoot 4 standing and 4 kneeling) using a revolver with moon clips and usually drop a point on a stage using speed loaders, and all of that is done DA.
But there are times when you have a need for more accuracy and unless the DA trigger is exceptionally light and smooth having a hammer and being able to shoot SA is an advantage. 50 yards is a toss up unless the target is small, but at 75 yards or 100 yards, SA is the way to go.
Similarly, while revolvers are very reliable, you can still encounter some malfunctions that will jam the cylinder. For example if you have lead build up or fragment of lead in the forcing cone that prevents the cylinder from rotating past it with DA trigger pressure, you can usually pull it past the obstruction with the DA trigger and its the quickest, cleanest way to clear it.
The same can be true with a soft nosed lead bullet that is a bit deformed a bit and or has backed slightly out of the case. There are limits of course but within those limits a hammer can get that bullet past the forcing cone and in position to fire with minimum fuss.
There are also cases where a small grain of partially burned powder might get under the ejector star - not enough to prevent the crane from going back into the frame, but enough to bind slightly more than the DA trigger can accommodate for the first shot (and recoil from that first shot usually creates some clearance). This is avoidable by avoiding spherical ball powders, but it's still nice to have the hammer.
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In other words, bobbing the hammer serves no real or useful purpose, but does remove some capability from the revolver. Consequently, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. Don't make mods that reduce capability or effectiveness.
That said, I do carry a couple revolvers with bobbed hammers, but it's because its unavoidable. For example, I prefer a 3" .357 mag to a 2.125". I have both lengths in the Kimber K6S, but carry the DAO version as it has a 3" barrel. Similarly, I have a Taurus 856 Executive and it also comes with a bobbed hammer. But in both cases the DA triggers are light and extremely smooth - close to what I have on my S&W Performance Center 625 (which still has a hammer). If Kimber had made a 3" DASA at the time I would have bought it instead. Same with the Taurus Executive.
But marketers are gonna market and whether it makes any sense or not, bobbed hammers are popular with some folks.
But you do you. My advice if you go that route is keep the original hammer and install a bobbed hammer or bob the replacement hammer to preserve the value of a good 3" Model 65. It is not a pocket pistol and many (most) potential future buyers won't appreciate the bobbed hammer, especially if it is an early Model 65.
- the "bob it" camp who seem to feel a hammer spur is not needed and or is a snag hazard; and
- the leave it alone camp who have never encountered any issues with a hammer snagging (even in pocket carry), and who recognize the value of having a hammer.
I'm in the latter camp.
In 39 years of concealed carry and with extensive revolver carry, I have never had an issue with a hammer snagging. Not one. Ever.
I also shoot DA about 95 percent of the time, but a hammer can be handy for that last 5 percent. I can shoot a clean score on a slightly modified version of the current FBI Q course (adding a reload at the 25 yard line to shoot 4 standing and 4 kneeling) using a revolver with moon clips and usually drop a point on a stage using speed loaders, and all of that is done DA.
But there are times when you have a need for more accuracy and unless the DA trigger is exceptionally light and smooth having a hammer and being able to shoot SA is an advantage. 50 yards is a toss up unless the target is small, but at 75 yards or 100 yards, SA is the way to go.
Similarly, while revolvers are very reliable, you can still encounter some malfunctions that will jam the cylinder. For example if you have lead build up or fragment of lead in the forcing cone that prevents the cylinder from rotating past it with DA trigger pressure, you can usually pull it past the obstruction with the DA trigger and its the quickest, cleanest way to clear it.
The same can be true with a soft nosed lead bullet that is a bit deformed a bit and or has backed slightly out of the case. There are limits of course but within those limits a hammer can get that bullet past the forcing cone and in position to fire with minimum fuss.
There are also cases where a small grain of partially burned powder might get under the ejector star - not enough to prevent the crane from going back into the frame, but enough to bind slightly more than the DA trigger can accommodate for the first shot (and recoil from that first shot usually creates some clearance). This is avoidable by avoiding spherical ball powders, but it's still nice to have the hammer.
---
In other words, bobbing the hammer serves no real or useful purpose, but does remove some capability from the revolver. Consequently, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. Don't make mods that reduce capability or effectiveness.
That said, I do carry a couple revolvers with bobbed hammers, but it's because its unavoidable. For example, I prefer a 3" .357 mag to a 2.125". I have both lengths in the Kimber K6S, but carry the DAO version as it has a 3" barrel. Similarly, I have a Taurus 856 Executive and it also comes with a bobbed hammer. But in both cases the DA triggers are light and extremely smooth - close to what I have on my S&W Performance Center 625 (which still has a hammer). If Kimber had made a 3" DASA at the time I would have bought it instead. Same with the Taurus Executive.
But marketers are gonna market and whether it makes any sense or not, bobbed hammers are popular with some folks.
But you do you. My advice if you go that route is keep the original hammer and install a bobbed hammer or bob the replacement hammer to preserve the value of a good 3" Model 65. It is not a pocket pistol and many (most) potential future buyers won't appreciate the bobbed hammer, especially if it is an early Model 65.
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Looks like a large faction of hammer bobbers are among the hardcore gunfighting dreamers and less experienced handgunners who have a "need" to modify just about any gun, maybe in a variety of ways. Most of the modifications are likely of dubious worth. A hammer is a good thing to have on a revolver. Why change that just for the sake of change ?
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