Cool! I'll do the old K22 I picked up recently and then on to the next guy!
Finish reaming K22s, or, How To Solve Difficult Extraction In .22lr S&Ws
- Thread starter PzKfW5
- Start date
I have a 1952 K-22 that is mildly tight but useable. My problem child is a 4-screw M-48 that is unusable after 2-3 cylinders of ammo, at best. I suppose the .22 mag would be a different, longer reamer, eh?
Yeah, the 22 mag is a longer reamer, just as you suggest.
I'm not familiar with the M48 - is that a K-frame?
Scharfschuetzer
Member
Great Thread
Interesting thread and very informative.
I had both a Model 17 and a Model 18 in my LEO career. I thought that they would really be good practice guns to simulate my Model 19 belt gun. Both would become unshootable after 30 rounds or so. Both went down the trail. I wish I would have known the above info 45 years ago.
I recently bought a virtually unfired Model 17-3 circa 1971 and guess what? It is a dream to shoot. No issues at all with easy extraction after close to 100 rounds. Wish I would have had this one back in the day.
Interesting thread and very informative.
I had both a Model 17 and a Model 18 in my LEO career. I thought that they would really be good practice guns to simulate my Model 19 belt gun. Both would become unshootable after 30 rounds or so. Both went down the trail. I wish I would have known the above info 45 years ago.
I recently bought a virtually unfired Model 17-3 circa 1971 and guess what? It is a dream to shoot. No issues at all with easy extraction after close to 100 rounds. Wish I would have had this one back in the day.
Yes, the model 48 is just a K-22 in .22 WMR chambering.
Too bad. I have a couple of 6-shot 22WMR speed loaders I don't need, but they are for a J-frame. They won't hold 22LR due to the slightly smaller diameter rims.
I love this thread and everyone sharing and passing the reamer on along to whoever needs it. Great team work!
ACORN
Member
Is the reamer accounted for? I used it and sent it along.
Just don’t want anyone thinking I kept it.
gmiller0737
Member
Yes I used it & sent it To BC38
Glad to see the reamer is being passed around and somehow keeps going. Hopefully it has a lot of life left, Larry
MygunisaS&Wrevolver
Member
Reamer Handle
FYI, the Brownells forcing cone cutter handle is a perfect fit for the mentioned Manson .22 reamer. I found that I saved about $40.00 by not having to buy a new reamer handle.
FYI, the Brownells forcing cone cutter handle is a perfect fit for the mentioned Manson .22 reamer. I found that I saved about $40.00 by not having to buy a new reamer handle.
I've got a question here. I've got a Model 17-5, 6" barrel. After cleaning, when loading, all six rounds drop in effortlessly, and eject easily. After loading four or five times, I notice it is more difficult to eject.
As a test, yesterday, I ran a brush through each chamber, and the gun was good as new, for a while.
I cleaned it last night, ran the brush, then patches through the cylinder, and earlier this morning I ran a "foam pad" with a few drops of Hoppe's oil on it, then took a photo. To me, visibly, it looks like the chamber has one diameter for the length of the case, and perhaps has a tighter diameter for the rest of the cylinder - but this might just be an optical illusion?
At any rate, if when the gun is clean, new rounds drop in with no effort, I don't think I would want to use a reamer on my cylinder. It sounds to me more like a dirt/debris problem, which is instantly fixed by running a wire brush through each chamber, bringing things back to the way they were after cleaning.
This has happened with CCI ammo in the past, and with Eley bulk 22 ammo yesterday - but again, I had no problems shooting, just running a brush through the chambers if things started to feel "tight" again.
I'll post a photo of the back of the cylinder after cleaning.
As a test, yesterday, I ran a brush through each chamber, and the gun was good as new, for a while.
I cleaned it last night, ran the brush, then patches through the cylinder, and earlier this morning I ran a "foam pad" with a few drops of Hoppe's oil on it, then took a photo. To me, visibly, it looks like the chamber has one diameter for the length of the case, and perhaps has a tighter diameter for the rest of the cylinder - but this might just be an optical illusion?
At any rate, if when the gun is clean, new rounds drop in with no effort, I don't think I would want to use a reamer on my cylinder. It sounds to me more like a dirt/debris problem, which is instantly fixed by running a wire brush through each chamber, bringing things back to the way they were after cleaning.
This has happened with CCI ammo in the past, and with Eley bulk 22 ammo yesterday - but again, I had no problems shooting, just running a brush through the chambers if things started to feel "tight" again.
I'll post a photo of the back of the cylinder after cleaning.
Attachments
Protocall_Design
Member
Not all guns are the same. Some need a reamer, some need a brush.
I had the sticky chamber problem and bought the reamer from Brownell's a few years ago. No keeping my shop well organized I ended up buying another reamer for my next revolver. I highly recommend this solution.
Lots of cutting oil and go slow. Proof is in the pudding as they say. Today I shot a Steel Challenge Match that requires 39 reloads. Not once did I have a case stick in the cylinder.
It's been working like that since I did the job.
It also helps to find the right ammo. I use Federal HV and even though it's lead with lots of wax on it I have no problems. I also use CCI BYOY which are plated. They go in and come out even faster.
Lots of cutting oil and go slow. Proof is in the pudding as they say. Today I shot a Steel Challenge Match that requires 39 reloads. Not once did I have a case stick in the cylinder.
It's been working like that since I did the job.
It also helps to find the right ammo. I use Federal HV and even though it's lead with lots of wax on it I have no problems. I also use CCI BYOY which are plated. They go in and come out even faster.
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