Firing pin problem-Model 60-9, zero protrusion.

[EdLeavitt]

In a recent trip to the range my trusty Model 60-9 wasn't very trusty. I got no primer strike whatsoever. The pistol has probably been fired less than 1000 times and what limited dry firing I have done has ALWAYS been with snap-caps.

What appears to be a hammer block seems to be operating as expected.

I've done what I am hearing referred to as the "Dime Test" and never see the tip of the frame-mounted firing pin come close to protruding. At most it seems to be about 3 mm too short to even come flush with the recoil shield. (Nothing suggests that this is an inertial pin system.)

Are there any special tricks to replacing the firing pin and where would be a good place to buy the part(s) I should have before starting the job?

 

[armorer951]

The problem could be an issue with the firing pin spring or possibly impacted shooting debris inside the firing pin frame cavity, so a cleaning or new spring may solve the issue. Check the nose of the firing pin closely.....there is also a possibility the pin is damaged. The factory pins usually measure around .495".

There is a pin under the sideplate that captures the firing pin that can be removed with a hemostat or tweezers. Access to the assembly is very easy if you are familiar with sideplate removal. It's best to remove the hammer also, to make access easier, but not absolutely necessary. Use caution with the retaining pin. It is not captive, and will fall out of the frame at the most inappropriate time. Don't ask how I know this.

Firing pins in the standard length are available from the factory, and other vendors like Brownells and Midway.

Aftermarket pins are marketed by various companies, including Apex, Power Custom, and TK Custom. These after market firing pins are .010" - .015" longer (.500" - .510") than the factory pins. This added length is supposed to aid in reliability.

When you order the new pin, you should also buy a new spring if a new spring is not included in your purchase. Be sure to clean out the cavity in the frame when installing the new pin. Use alcohol or acetone to do this cleaning. A Q-tip will reach in there and get any debris out. Do not lubricate the new pin, spring, or the cavity prior to re-assembly.

As always, be sure to verify that the pin is functioning properly by test firing.

 

[heeter3]

I had a 442 which has a frame mounted firing pin in which the firing pin spring literally disintigrated.The first clue I had was when I was loading the cylinder with a speed loader and the gun was pointing down.When I went to close the cylinder with the gun still pointing down I found that the cylinder wouldn't close.I emptied the gun and found that as the gun was pointing down the firing pin was totally exposed, when I held it with the barrel pointing up the firing pin disappeared.After opening it up and removing the firing pin there was nothing but pieces of the spring that came out of the firing pin channel.I had previously replaced the broken original firing pin with a longer cylinder and slide model but when I put a new firing pin spring back in I put a Smith and wesson firing pin back in the gun, thinking that the longer firing pin may have been to much for the stock firing pin spring.Like armorer 951 says I probably should have replaced the spring with the firing pin on my first repair.I always like to learn from a pro and this forum is a great place to get their expertise.

 

[EdLeavitt]

Thanks armorer951.
"Check the nose of the firing pin closely" << therein lies a problem because I really cannot get a clear glimpse of the firing pin. I dug out a dental mirror and that helped somewhat. It's sort of like staring down a deep well on a sunny day... hard to see much of anything. But what I could make out looked like a fracture. I dug out a fine tipped probe and felt around and it definitely is not a smooth surface.
I went ahead and ordered a couple of new firing pins and springs. I'm baffled how I could manage to break a firing pin with such light usage of the pistol.
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Heeter3 Thanks for the comments. My initial reaction typically would be to just replace the broken part but if a solid piece like the firing pin can fracture for no apparent reason I'll replace the spring while I'm in there. Odds are the replacement parts will outlast me. A dozen or so years ago I decided to make the model 60 my standard carry piece. A significant part of that decision is that I consider a modern revolver so doggone reliable. When mine failed to go "bang" at the range I found myself wondering just how long I've been carrying a lumpy clubbing device on my hip.

 

[armorer951]

You'll probably need to take the firing pin out of the gun to have a good close look. Hope you get this resolved.

One of the great things about firing your EDC gun often is you get a definite answer as to it's reliability.

 

[EdLeavitt]

Yes indeed. The parts are on the way.