First shooting with model 34-1 and questions

I bought a 34-1 a few years ago and had the same sticking problem after a dozen shots or so. The .22 ammo is notorious for being dirty. I had an M17 and M18 the same and had the chambers reamed by local smith. For the 34-1 I bought the reamer and did it myself. Hour and half and done. I hope the waxy ammo works, if not, I suggest the chamber reamer. Directions can be found on U tube.

Thanks,
I shall look on Utube.
Brownells France is the right address in France to purchase the reamer.
Rather expensive: 214.90 * (my gun price is 550 *...)
They offer Clymer "MATCH" .22 LR FINISH REAMER.
Is it the right choice?
 
Sticky chambers....

Long time lurker,but this rang a bell ! I have a Model 17-5 that when I purchased it in 2012 was unfired in the box.
I had the same problem even when I used Eley club as well as any other target ammo I could try.
Not having a reamer,and not having any local gunsmith to do it, I decided to be conservative and used a very fine polishing compound ( simichrome) along with a cotton bore mop mounted on a dremel . I polished each chamber ONE TIME and thoroughly cleaned each chamber as well.
After that,no problem.
Remember this little saying, : It's easier to take metal OFF,than to put it on.
Enjoy your new 34,they don't make them like that anymore !
 
Long time lurker,but this rang a bell ! I have a Model 17-5 that when I purchased it in 2012 was unfired in the box.
I had the same problem even when I used Eley club as well as any other target ammo I could try.
Not having a reamer,and not having any local gunsmith to do it, I decided to be conservative and used a very fine polishing compound ( simichrome) along with a cotton bore mop mounted on a dremel . I polished each chamber ONE TIME and thoroughly cleaned each chamber as well.
After that,no problem.
Remember this little saying, : It's easier to take metal OFF,than to put it on.
Enjoy your new 34,they don't make them like that anymore !

That is wise saying. It's the reason why I fear to take off more metal than necessary...

Thanks a lot for your encouragement to dare :)
 
You should try to find a MANSON finish cylinder reamer

I bought mine years ago here in the States. I have reamed (by hand, by myself) probably a dozen S&W 22 LR cylinders. Below pics show on my 1975 Model 34-1 before (fired cases will not even load) and after (same exact fired cases seat great).

I just sent my reamer and my vise plastic soft jaws to another Forum Member so he could ream his S&W Model 17.

If you really cannot find this exact reamer in France (or Europe) I would be happy to send it to you in France.....IF....IF it is legal to send tools related to firearms out of the USA. I don't know but I'm willing to look into it if you cannot find it at all.

This Manson reamer is about $50 in USA if I remember correctly. It was bought years ago so maybe more these days.

Use liberal amounts of any good cutting fluid, go slowly, all in one direction (clockwise) and you'll be real happy with the results.

Let us know how you are making out with this sticking issue. It is frustrating but no reason to not fix it and enjoy your fine revolver.
 

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Yesterday I shoot for the first time with my S&W 34-1.

One hand shoot distance 25m: .... 5 over 6 in the target, and very dispersed :D

Finally I tried shooting 2 hands with support.
Very best results: 6/6 in the black.

Thanks for help.

Sounds like a successful visit to the range to me!

One question I would ask myself would be; were my expectations too high? We are talking about a Kit Gun that came in a 2 or 4 inch barrel.

A second question would be how does it compare with your experience with similar guns (if you have any).

I am impressed. Please let us know how you do after a few more trips to the range.

And congratulations and good luck with your Kit Gun
 
I bought a 34-1 a few years ago and had the same sticking problem after a dozen shots or so. The .22 ammo is notorious for being dirty. I had an M17 and M18 the same and had the chambers reamed by local smith. For the 34-1 I bought the reamer and did it myself. Hour and half and done. I hope the waxy ammo works, if not, I suggest the chamber reamer. Directions can be found on U tube.

Thanks for the advice.
Now I just have to dare to do it...
 
I did not know this about "heavy frame target". Sure it's not.

Here is the predecessor to the model 34 but in I frame, the 22/32 HFT along side my model 63, which is essentially the same as the 34 only stainless. I love mine, but as others have noted, the trigger pull is not as smooth as the K frame guns. Doesn't effect the fun factor.

PXL_20240801_233439588.jpg

S&W M-63 22 (2).jpg
 
Sounds like a successful visit to the range to me!

One question I would ask myself would be; were my expectations too high? We are talking about a Kit Gun that came in a 2 or 4 inch barrel.

A second question would be how does it compare with your experience with similar guns (if you have any).

I am impressed. Please let us know how you do after a few more trips to the range.

And congratulations and good luck with your Kit Gun

I must remain humble, and your congratulation could lead me that I'm a fine shooter, what is not true.
My mod 34-1 is equipped with a 4" barrel. This make the task easier...
As explained, the last shoot, I had a support and use my two hands.
Nevertheless these shoots shows one thing, not about the shooter but about the gun: respecting the methode mentionned in the S&W notice that I am happy to have read, aiming axial point below the balck part of the target, this revolver reveals to be rather accurate.
This gun is my first 22 LR so I can't compare with others in the same caliber.
I have one S&W model 22-4 chambered in .45 acp - N frame from 2007
I equipped this gun with Altamont grip.
Even if I have small hands, with this grip its easier for me to position my two hands compared to the 34-1. But I forget to hold the 22-4 with one hand, becasue of the recoil, what I can do easily with the 34-1.
I have also a model 10-8 built in 1987, chambered in 38 sp, K frame.
At the moment its the best balance bewten feelings and pleasure, just the recoil that does not break your harm (I 'am 71 and have some osteoarthritis) and informs you that you have shot :D
I will come back to you after having shot agian with this gun, but it's going to take some time, since I use to shot each week with a different weapon including my 15 black powder revolvers, my 1873 SAA Uberti chambered in .45 LC, my tow others S&W and my Winchester 1894 in 45 LC also... and there is only 48 open weeks per year at our range in Cherbourg...
 
Here is the predecessor to the model 34 but in I frame, the 22/32 HFT along side my model 63, which is essentially the same as the 34 only stainless. I love mine, but as others have noted, the trigger pull is not as smooth as the K frame guns. Doesn't effect the fun factor.

View attachment 731419

View attachment 731420

Nice guns.
That's right the pleasure at range is the essential part of our sport.
 
I bought mine years ago here in the States. I have reamed (by hand, by myself) probably a dozen S&W 22 LR cylinders. Below pics show on my 1975 Model 34-1 before (fired cases will not even load) and after (same exact fired cases seat great).

I just sent my reamer and my vise plastic soft jaws to another Forum Member so he could ream his S&W Model 17.

If you really cannot find this exact reamer in France (or Europe) I would be happy to send it to you in France.....IF....IF it is legal to send tools related to firearms out of the USA. I don't know but I'm willing to look into it if you cannot find it at all.

This Manson reamer is about $50 in USA if I remember correctly. It was bought years ago so maybe more these days.

Use liberal amounts of any good cutting fluid, go slowly, all in one direction (clockwise) and you'll be real happy with the results.

Let us know how you are making out with this sticking issue. It is frustrating but no reason to not fix it and enjoy your fine revolver.

Thank you very much for the proposal, I appreciate

But, thanks to nedlate, I found the right Manson reamer at Brownells France :)
 
I bought mine years ago here in the States. I have reamed (by hand, by myself) probably a dozen S&W 22 LR cylinders. Below pics show on my 1975 Model 34-1 before (fired cases will not even load) and after (same exact fired cases seat great).

I just sent my reamer and my vise plastic soft jaws to another Forum Member so he could ream his S&W Model 17.

If you really cannot find this exact reamer in France (or Europe) I would be happy to send it to you in France.....IF....IF it is legal to send tools related to firearms out of the USA. I don't know but I'm willing to look into it if you cannot find it at all.

This Manson reamer is about $50 in USA if I remember correctly. It was bought years ago so maybe more these days.

Use liberal amounts of any good cutting fluid, go slowly, all in one direction (clockwise) and you'll be real happy with the results.

Let us know how you are making out with this sticking issue. It is frustrating but no reason to not fix it and enjoy your fine revolver.

I apreciat your offer to send me the reamer, but finalay thanks to nedlate, I found a manson reamer at Brownells France. The price is 184.90 Euros is higher than in USA I suppose, but it is the price to be paid to improve this little revolver that so will be near perfect.
I love it, but my others S&W are now jalous.
 
Thank you for your post.
I need your expertise.
Is it the best tool for solving the problem of bullet cases extratction?
If yes, I didn't find it in France at the moment.


There are some do-it-yourself methods of chamber polishing.

One method is to use a brass (NOT steel!) .22 bore cleaning brush. Attach it to a short cleaning rod & then insert the rod into a cordless or electric drill. Run the bore brush down each cylinder chamber, moving it in & out. Visually check each chamber after doing the entire cylinder.

Keep in mind, this method only polishes the chamber, it won't enlarge it like a reamer would. But, it's better than nothing, IMO.

Good luck to you!
 
There are some do-it-yourself methods of chamber polishing.

One method is to use a brass (NOT steel!) .22 bore cleaning brush. Attach it to a short cleaning rod & then insert the rod into a cordless or electric drill. Run the bore brush down each cylinder chamber, moving it in & out. Visually check each chamber after doing the entire cylinder.

Keep in mind, this method only polishes the chamber, it won't enlarge it like a reamer would. But, it's better than nothing, IMO.

Good luck to you!

Thanks for the advice.
It could be a first operation easy to do, at a soft cost.
 
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