Fixing Hammer Push-Off (629-2)

[SandSpider]

I have a 629-2 that I bought used some time ago. I noticed at the time that the SA pull was super light, but didn't think much about it and didn't check for hammer push-off. It was a gun show impulse buy...

Sure enough, the hammer pushes of with little force when cocked. I've actually been shooting the gun like this for some time (not a good idea, I know), but now I think it's time to fix this. I want to tinker with it myself and found instructions on dealing with this here, half way down the page:

FAQ's

One thing I don't know is what grit should the stone be?

Another thing, I thought these parts are surface hardened. Won't stoning the trigger remove the hardening?

Should I just buy a new trigger? And if so, can you get parts identical to what came in a -2, or will I end up with a MIM part?


Thanks, SandSpider

 

[4barrel]

She is in need of a new hammer? Someone over did a trigger job?

 

[SandSpider]

She is in need of a new hammer? Someone over did a trigger job?

That would be my guess. But I think it's the trigger that needs to be changed or reworked.

 

[cmj8591]

Before you start on the trigger, check the main spring. A weak main spring can cause push off and is an easy fix. Make sure that someone didn't kink it as that is a common way to try and lighten the double action pull and will cause push off. If you have to stone, use a medium 6" stone. When you stone the trigger, like in the diagram, use only the weight of the stone. Do not put pressure. Make about four strokes and retry to see if the problem is fixed. It takes VERY little effort and it's easy to get carried away and ruin the trigger. Don't worry about the hardening. You won't be going deep enough to remove it.

 

[SandSpider]

Success!

That was easy. Used a 400 grit stone just like in the illustration I linked to above. No more push off! Worked like a charm.


SandSpider

 

[Frizzman]

I had a similar problem. I contacted S&W online and explained the problem. They sent me a mailing label for Fedex and I sent it to them. I got it back in nine days. It was not only fixed properly but the trigger action feels like they did a trigger job on it too...They charged me nothing for all that. I was VERY pleased. I tinker some with my guns but I don't with guns I carry for defense.

 

[tppjr]

Broken Link

I have a 629-2 that I bought used some time ago. I noticed at the time that the SA pull was super light, but didn't think much about it and didn't check for hammer push-off. It was a gun show impulse buy...

Sure enough, the hammer pushes of with little force when cocked. I've actually been shooting the gun like this for some time (not a good idea, I know), but now I think it's time to fix this. I want to tinker with it myself and found instructions on dealing with this here, half way down the page:

FAQ's

One thing I don't know is what grit should the stone be?

Another thing, I thought these parts are surface hardened. Won't stoning the trigger remove the hardening?

Should I just buy a new trigger? And if so, can you get parts identical to what came in a -2, or will I end up with a MIM part?


Thanks, SandSpider

I know that this is an old thread but does anyone know what the OP was trying to link to? It no longer works. I have having the same problem and want to take a look at the reference.l

thank you,
Thomas

 

[jack the toad]

Try this link.
FAQ
If not working for you, go to "Smithing" section and check FAQ near top of thread listing. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
ETA:
Here's this from the FAQ thread...
To correct push off

The hammer notch must be square, sharp and not rounded. It's only .005 inch tall so use a eye loupe to inspect it. Use a new stone to true it up, if it's not square. (I like ceramic stones for this) Then after the hammer is proper, stoning the trigger will correct the push off.

Remember use a 6 inch long stone. Changing the stone length will affect the trigger pull.



To test the trigger hook, you scrap it on your thumb nail. If nail is scraped off, you got it sharpened correctly.

If you want a lighter single action pull, you dull the angle by lightly stoning the angle parallel to the table top.

 

[armorer951]

Contrary to the FAQ advice, the hammer notch cannot be "trued up" with a stone or with any other method by hand. Attempting to do so will create an unsafe condition. If the hammer notch is damaged or has been altered, the hammer should be replaced.

Sharpening of the bevel on the trigger should be done with a 6 inch Norton medium India stone, while carefully following instructions found in the armorer's manual. (benchtop method)

Power Custom also sells an expensive jig to complete this simple procedure.

 

[tppjr]

Thanks JACK!!

 

[jack the toad]

armorer951 knows his stuff, I'd go with his advice over the faq.

 

[tppjr]

armorer951 knows his stuff, I'd go with his advice over the faq.

After a quick check I agree with the advice. I am also contacting S&W like the other poster did to see what they say first.

It is a new gun to me, un-modified my me but something is amiss.

 

[tppjr]

Where is the best place to get factory parts?

 

[jack the toad]

I'd say if current model parts with no restrictions, go to factory or maybe Brownells, Midway, etc.
If no longer in production, it's where you find them. Might post an ad in the WTB.
ETA:
Aftermarket like Power Custom may have new production.

 

[tom2]

IF the gun has a screw to retain/tension the leaf mainspring, make sure no one has backed that screw a few turns to lighten the pull. Or some might even shorten that screw that tensions the mainspring to get the same effect. The gun will not push off like that with proper springs and tension unless the hammer is bad or altered. I would say from my experience, never ever try to be a basement gunsmith and start fiddling with the notches on the hammer without being a trained smith.

 

[tppjr]

I actually ended up sending it back to Smith & Wesson I'll let you know how that goes.

 

[stu1ritter]

IF the gun has a screw to retain/tension the leaf mainspring, make sure no one has backed that screw a few turns to lighten the pull. Or some might even shorten that screw that tensions the mainspring to get the same effect. The gun will not push off like that with proper springs and tension unless the hammer is bad or altered. I would say from my experience, never ever try to be a basement gunsmith and start fiddling with the notches on the hammer without being a trained smith.

Shortened strain screws and lighter hammer weights (within spec) do not cause push-off. The S&W Armorers manual gives instructions for adjusting the length of the strain screw to obtain correct hammer weight from the main spring. You can read the correct procedure from the Armorers manual pages here:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-sm...html?highlight=Revolver+Trigger+Job+Questions

Stu