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Flitz polish
- Thread starter rubiranch
- Start date
Hondo44
Member
That looks like powder fouling. I wouldn't get over aggressive. Your method will work fine. The lead wipe cloths by Lyman and others are made just for that. Can't get too aggressive with them either on a blue gun though.
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Model 28-2 before Flitz.
Model 28-2 after Flitz (and a couple of coats of Ren Wax.)
A light, by hand buffing with the Flitz, twice, then a wipe down with rubbing alcohol to remove the oil, then two coats of Ren Wax.
Model 28-2 after Flitz (and a couple of coats of Ren Wax.)
A light, by hand buffing with the Flitz, twice, then a wipe down with rubbing alcohol to remove the oil, then two coats of Ren Wax.
joeintexas
US Veteran
I've used Flitz also to polish brass, found NUCar Finish works about as well and much cheaper. Ren Wax does what it says too. I use it to prevent rust here in Florida, so far so good.
Another good cleaning method that I use, particularly on antique guns with the great patina that is desirable is Marvels Mystery oil and 4 ott steel wool. Lifts any rust and or contaminants up and the steel wool puts a nice shine on them
As with any abrasive use a very light hand to not damage the finish. Marvel is a great all around oil. Good for cleaning and lube too since it won't gum up any of the parts.
Nice gun!!!
As with any abrasive use a very light hand to not damage the finish. Marvel is a great all around oil. Good for cleaning and lube too since it won't gum up any of the parts.
Nice gun!!!
Another good cleaning method that I use, particularly on antique guns with the great patina that is desirable is Marvels Mystery oil and 4 ott steel wool. Lifts any rust and or contaminants up and the steel wool puts a nice shine on them
As with any abrasive use a very light hand to not damage the finish. Marvel is a great all around oil. Good for cleaning and lube too since it won't gum up any of the parts.
Nice gun!!!
As with any abrasive use a very light hand to not damage the finish. Marvel is a great all around oil. Good for cleaning and lube too since it won't gum up any of the parts.
Nice gun!!!
Just got back from seeing the gunsmith. The .357 is ready to be fired. I lubed it up good and tried my best to clean the flutes, but had almost zero luck. Wenol had no affect other than the Wenol residue caked a little in the flutes. I then tried 0000 bronze wool with Hoppes bore cleaner with no affect, then I tried a bronze brush and it got a touch of it out. I will go test-fire it now, then hopefully will think of something else.
The gunsmith said to use 000 or 0000 steel wool and when I mentioned that it could scratch the blueing he said that was a fallacy.
So, not perfect cosmetically, but I have an absolutely full cleaning kit and a functional .357 magnum, so I'm very pleased.
The gunsmith said to use 000 or 0000 steel wool and when I mentioned that it could scratch the blueing he said that was a fallacy.
So, not perfect cosmetically, but I have an absolutely full cleaning kit and a functional .357 magnum, so I'm very pleased.
OP
rubiranch
Member
My 686 was like that. I used brake clean and 0000 steel wool. It took a lot of scrubbing but my 686 is stainless so I wasn't worried about scratching it.
Hondo44
Member
Try steel wool on the butt strap, or some other inconspicuous place, then look at the bluing thru 10 power magnification. And decide for yourself if it scratches the bluing. With the naked eye you can't see the scratches but the bluing will look less shiny then the rest of the gun. See post #63. Lead wipes is what you need, it's specifically made for your problem.
I don't think the gunsmith is savvy on preserving the finish.
Thanks Jim. I will get some lead wipes before I do anything else to it.
...other than put 100 rounds of .357 through it, which I just did, and I am still grinning ear too ear. This is one special revolver.
Looks like just carbon in those flutes. I've used Kroil on them and let it soak. Kroil will penetrate and make that carbon lift from the cylinder with a little scrubbing. I've only used lead wipes for stainless revolvers.
I appreciate all the advice on cylinder flute cleaning.
I already had a giant bottle of Hoppe's 9 bore cleaner, so the cylinder is now soaking in a jar full. Hoppe's sounded like a good solution. <=== get it?
OP
rubiranch
Member
You're horrible.
Thank you. At least I didn't say anything about a clean wipe.
That is an amazing gun - I did not know they made a 27 version with 8 chambers. I'm finding that I can always use another chamber.
OP
rubiranch
Member
Thank you. This one is my pride and joy and remains unfired.
These were a special order made for Bangers. They were built in the S&W Performance Center. S&W made 100 of them with 4" barrels and 100 with 6 1/2" barrels back in 2000. I do know that these were the only pre-lock 8 round .357s S&W made.
I don't know how many 8 shot .357s were ever made either but I have seen a thread here for guns that hold 8 rounds. Maybe you could search for it or start another thread.
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Perhaps you meant "pre-lock 8 round Model 27s S&W made..."
I do not know a lot about these later .357's but I do know that S&W also made several versions of the 627's pre-lock with an 8-round cylinder - here are a couple of examples:627 PC:
627-3:
I love your 27-7! It is a beauty! A few years ago, I was able to pick SN BNG0038 up (I think that it is the only post P&R Model 27 that I own). The craftsmanship on these 27-7s is very nice.
Forum member Mokuloa is an expert on these 8-round 357s...
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Job done. I took it out of the Hoppe's after a few hours and scrubbed some off with bronze wool. Let it soak overnight, then scrubbed to perfection this morning. I can't imagine harder fluting build-up, but it worked.
Also, I noticed some odd areas on the cylinder that were a different blue color that matched the color in the flutes. After the first soak and scrub I had pastel blue on my fingers and rag. After the final overnight soak and scrub I did not. Those areas on the cylinder are now gone. Could that have been from a touch-up re-blueing?
Plus, I learned how to remove a cylinder!
Here are 'before and after' pics (showing same cylinder location). I also cleaned, lubed and Ren-waxed it. Finally, wasn't happy with a few off spots, so sparingly used Flitz on side-panels only - very happy with the Flitz results as well.
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Arquebus357
Member
A word of caution. If the gun is a shooter, do not use Renaissance Wax on the wood grips. The wax makes them quite slippery. Ask me how I know
I use Ren wax to refurbish pool cue shafts (basically, to make them slippery) so that makes sense.
OP
rubiranch
Member
Perhaps you meant "pre-lock 8 round Model 27s S&W made..."
Beautiful guns you have there.
And now I know. Thank you.
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rubiranch
Member
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Kind of like using ArmorAll on a motorcycle seat.
Or, the brand new, black seats in a CJ-5. And the steering wheel...the gear shift knob, the clutch, brake, and gas petals.
Don't do that.
Even if you are young and stupid. 
Perhaps you meant "pre-lock 8 round Model 27s S&W made..."
627 PC:
Holy cow - that looks like it needs to be my carry....only maybe just a tad shorter.
Serious, Mother's and Ren wax? or Flitz?
03hemi
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Mothers or Flitz, I did mine with just my hand a rag with Mothers last time. McGuire's Headlight Sealant sprayed on once a year will keep them from turning yellow again too.
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