I have been working on getting my M&P 15-22 to run with my slidefire for a long time. I recently had an idea that resulted in a massive increase in functionally and ease of use. I have not seen it before, and think it is so good that if share it here.
Typical things that everyone does:
Very light trigger - Timney Geissel, or other
Minimize upper weight
Use a recoil enhancing muzzle device
High velocity ammo
Practice a lot
All these things make sense, but there are some notable tradeoffs between light strikes and light triggers. They can be minimized by polishing the bolt and firing pin, and by lightening the pin return spring.
My idea :
While practicing I noticed that if I positioned my finger so the trigger impacted the first joint (where there is less flesh and more bone) it worked better. Obviously my finger is compliant and can absorb the impact of the forward moving trigger, sometimes enough to prevent the next shot.
This demonstrates the critical balance of push/pull needed to make 22 work with the slidefire.
As an experiment, I taped an alien wrench to my trigger finger and blew through three mags with no problems. The trigger smacked against the hard metal instead of my finger. However, I could not make accurate single shots, since I could not feel the trigger.
My solution :
I cut a thin piece of sheet metal about 1 inch x 1.5 inch and deburred the edges and corners. I rolled it carefully around a pencil, adding some curl.
It fit over my trigger finger snugly, and was the perfect length to expose half of the tip, while not extending all the way to my second joint.
When shooting single shots, I use the tip of my finger on the trigger. When I want to rock-n-roll, I use the tip if my finger on the slidefire finger rest and let the trigger hit the hard metal.
This works so well, even with a traditional compensator, there is likely an opportunity to increase the hammer spring to reduce light strikes.
I will post pictures when I can.
Simply put, I stuck a tube of sheet metal on my finger.
Sent from my HP Slate 7 using Tapatalk
Typical things that everyone does:
Very light trigger - Timney Geissel, or other
Minimize upper weight
Use a recoil enhancing muzzle device
High velocity ammo
Practice a lot
All these things make sense, but there are some notable tradeoffs between light strikes and light triggers. They can be minimized by polishing the bolt and firing pin, and by lightening the pin return spring.
My idea :
While practicing I noticed that if I positioned my finger so the trigger impacted the first joint (where there is less flesh and more bone) it worked better. Obviously my finger is compliant and can absorb the impact of the forward moving trigger, sometimes enough to prevent the next shot.
This demonstrates the critical balance of push/pull needed to make 22 work with the slidefire.
As an experiment, I taped an alien wrench to my trigger finger and blew through three mags with no problems. The trigger smacked against the hard metal instead of my finger. However, I could not make accurate single shots, since I could not feel the trigger.
My solution :
I cut a thin piece of sheet metal about 1 inch x 1.5 inch and deburred the edges and corners. I rolled it carefully around a pencil, adding some curl.
It fit over my trigger finger snugly, and was the perfect length to expose half of the tip, while not extending all the way to my second joint.
When shooting single shots, I use the tip of my finger on the trigger. When I want to rock-n-roll, I use the tip if my finger on the slidefire finger rest and let the trigger hit the hard metal.
This works so well, even with a traditional compensator, there is likely an opportunity to increase the hammer spring to reduce light strikes.
I will post pictures when I can.
Simply put, I stuck a tube of sheet metal on my finger.
Sent from my HP Slate 7 using Tapatalk
We now have an answer to the burning question: how is shooting a slide-fire like playing steel guitar?
