Grandpa’s Model 3 Russian First Model

Pam, I feel that your 40-50% humidity would be fine. My folks had ivory things around the house and I didn't see any deterioration in the pieces. It's the fluctuation between the humidity points that is the bummer for Ivory as it swells and contracts with moisture. I.e. causes cracking.
 
I forgot to answer your question on 'removing the cylinder". Picture two; that is the D@rn screw that holds the cylinder in place. As you might tell; it's usually rusted in place and can be a challenge to remove. Patience and penetrating oil. More patience. More oil.
 
Thanks, Mastodonian Mike! Mid-peninsula? Well done by dad the geologist!

If I can tax your patience further, now I'm worried (it never stops) about what looks like some sort of rust/chem reaction/biological agent I see between the ivory and the ... ... dang it! What's the word for the metal piece that is recessed into the ivory and holds the piece of ivory in place. I want to say escargot! Anyway, I can see some sort of green ring. Pictures (attached) were a challenge. Be kind. :)
Thank you!
Pam
 

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Norcal_lover said:
Thanks, Mastodonian Mike! Mid-peninsula? Well done by dad the geologist!

If I can tax your patience further, now I'm worried (it never stops) about what looks like some sort of rust/chem reaction/biological agent I see between the ivory and the ... ... dang it! What's the word for the metal piece that is recessed into the ivory and holds the piece of ivory in place. I want to say escargot! Anyway, I can see some sort of green ring. Pictures (attached) were a challenge. Be kind. :)
Thank you!
Pam
Click to expand...
That is the grip escutcheon and it is made of brass. The green brass tarnish is known as verdigris. I wouldn't be concerned about it myself. There appears to be very little of it and it lends character on a piece this old.
 
Norcal_lover said:
I think I've double-posted, so this would make a triple-post but still trying to send dang photos. Thank you for your patience. Sigh.

Pam
Click to expand...

Hi, Pam. well ... yaaaaaah, I'd say a proper burial is in order for those stocks. I suggest you seek another decent set of stocks, wood is just fine.

Buying another set of Ivory stocks or having a set made (if that is even legal any more) would be cost prohibitive, I feel.

If you decide to preserve this one, first get the mechanical issued corrected properly, then I'd go as far as to shoot the bundle it would cost to find a nice set of vintage Ivories for it.

If, when gun is closed, you do not have any looseness or slop at the clasp and / or hinge areas then spend a few bucks on it. However, if it is worn to the point of feeling loose or sloppy when closed, I would reconsider seriously how much, if anything, I'd spend on it.
 
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I'll agree with Dartshark; but only to a point. Alcohol WILL dry out the ivory and should be used judiciously. Do not soak the panels as a light wipe down is all that is needed. An Alcohol wipe will, however, remove any skin oils, or, as often found with firearms, the stocks/grips are sometimes wiped down with a patch that has gun oil. Both oils are detrimental to repairing stocks as they will keep the halves from bonding with the adhesive. If the stocks are saturated from oil then a repair is almost impossible.
 
Thanks, B-Bill for your comments. Yes, I feel this gun is imbued with history: both familial and cultural. We too thought grandpa's collection was long gone to my cousins; additionally, we were told they sold them. 40 years later some if his guns were "discovered" in an attic.

Yes, I cherish everything about this gun. :)

Regards,
Pam

BigBill said:
I would cherish any gun received from a relative. My grandfathers guns went to another cousin.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Sal,

Thanks for your thoughts. This gun is what a relative called "tight." No wobble, no loose joints, no creaking when she gets up in the morning....

The reason I initially worked on the gun was to learn as much as I could about the gun and its history. I also felt it would renew a bond I had with my late grandfather (it did). I already feel an ownership I didn't feel previous to cleaning the gun and talking to you folks/collectors. I didn't work on the gun myself to avoid spending money on the gun. I'll drop shiny coins when i know what's wrong w trigger, etc. and when I'm ready to have it professionally cleaned.

I will keep the original ivory stocks for above reasons.

I look forward to your additional comments, Sal. It's really impressive how many of you spend a great deal of time and effort helping the newbies out. Thanks!

Pam


not
model3sw said:
Hi, Pam. well ... yaaaaaah, I'd say a proper burial is in order for those stocks. I suggest you seek another decent set of stocks, wood is just fine.

Buying another set of Ivory stocks or having a set made (if that is even legal any more) would be cost prohibitive, I feel.

If you decide to preserve this one, first get the mechanical issued corrected properly, then I'd go as far as to shoot the bundle it would cost to find a nice set of vintage Ivories for it.

If, when gun is closed, you do not have any looseness or slop at the clasp and / or hinge areas then spend a few bucks on it. However, if it is worn to the point of feeling loose or sloppy when closed, I reconsider seriously how much, if anything, I'd spend on it.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Dartshart and Mike,

Thanks, guys. Got it.
When I look at the remains of glue used to hold 2 pieces of ivory together, it presents like rubber cement. So, seems like a tiny bit of alcohol will help cut through the 'rubber' bits. As to cleaning the surface of the stocks, how do you gentlemen feel about milk? Or better put, if I try milk but ivory surface still is dirty, can I still use infinitesimally amount of alcohol to clean surface of stocks?
Thanks for your thoughts,
Pam
 
The glue can also be hide glue, an old-time popular adhesive that was cheap and easy to use. Problem is that with both latex (rubber) or hide glue it that they are very weak. I do not think you need to worry about glue on the stock unless you find the other half. There are a few conservators out there that can replace the missing piece and if you want to keep them on the gun, I would seek out their advice. They will properly clean, repair, and give you a professional job. There is certainly a cost to this work, but it will be well worth the effort. I am the first to say I would be an amateur at repairing and conserving ivory and would definitely contact experts in the field.

Everyone has their own ideas on how to do stuff, unfortunately, some I have seen in this thread should not be attempted by amateurs. Here is some information I located that might help you out.

Cleaning
If the ivory object is in good stable condition, cleaning the surface of dirt and grime with a mild soap and water solution is appropriate. If the dusting is not enough the ivory can be cleaned with a mixture of water and mild soap (such as Ivory Snow or WA Paste). Never soak ivory as the water could cause the dirt to become more visible by embedding it into cracks or pores. Many liquids can be destructive to ivory so avoid if possible or contact a professional.

Stabilization and structural treatments
Avoid over the counter adhesives when repairing cracks or breaks of ivory. These repairs are difficult and the use of poor adhesives can result in staining of the ivory and embrittlement as the adhesives age. Breaks and cracks can be important historically and show its use of the object. Unnecessary repairs can result in the loss of that historical information. Contact a conservator before any structural repairs are made.

Surface treatments
Avoid wax or other protective coatings as they can age over time resulting in yellowing or darkening of the ivory surface. It can also obscure surface details that may be important to the object. The protective coatings can become difficult or even impossible to remove without damage to the object. If possible to remove unstable surface treatments, do so with appropriate solvents. Use caution and have a professional consulted before doing any work on the ivory.

Intervention
Especially in archaeological contexts, interventive treatment may in some cases be considered necessary. Such intervention is governed by conservation ethics, in particular the principles of reversibility and minimum intervention. Possible treatments include the reduction of salts to prevent further deterioration, and the consolidation of delaminating and friable components. Any treatment should be undertaken by a conservation professional.

Contact a professional
Ivory is extremely sensitive and reactive, if it is broken or extremely dirty please contact a professional conservator to conduct the repairs and extensive cleaning.

If you are going to pass this revolver down to future generations, repair and stabilization of those stocks is very important. One of the largest ivory restoration firms in the US is below and maybe a good place to call.

Ivory Repair, Ivory Restoration, fineart-restoration.com
 
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