Grease for the hammer block

Well, maybe what you are all saying is why I have ignored the "grease it" recommendations for the past 35 years. And Warren, I was going inside the revolver because I'm stuck inside the house for the next 14 days and looking for something to do to keep from going bonkers. Thought could just touch up the trigger a little (which I did) and give it a good cleaning. Thought if I did maybe 1 a day I could have something to do for the next few months. I'll probably clean the grease out.
 
That's what I've heard. I'm into Lithium (12-Hydroxy Stearate) Grease Oyl right now though.......it's a multi-purpose type grease oyl with a "buttery" texture and dropping point above 350°F. It smells like bacon grease. I add my own tungsten dioxide to this stuff, which makes it really slick. I'm sure it has a higher lubricty than plain old moly. It makes for a great gun oyl.

If you pack enough under the sideplate, it can't possibly leak out, even if you heat the frame up with a torch.:D

I make my own mainsprings out of old Chevy truck leaf springs....and use a 25 pound rebound spring. BTW, that 3 inch long rebound spring is a bear to get inside that rebound block. Sadly, I'm getting "light strikes", but I can't figure out what is amiss. Perhaps I need a longer firing pin?
 
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Years ago I bought a used SW revolver, (don't recall what model) It was in excellent condition. I took the side plate off and it was literally stuffed with grease! Had to take most of it out physically then "hosed" it out with solvent. What a mess!:eek:
 
Ahhhh yes.....we had a member of our department who worked as a detective that thought lithium grease....that "black as pitch" stuff....was great for firearms. If a little bit is good, he thought, a lot must be better.

The entire inside the the frame and all the internals were covered with the stuff. Took me a couple of hours work and a half roll of shop towels to get it all out.
 
I have a S&W model 17 no dash in flawless condition. Got it in 2005 after a trade with a friend over some fine cutlery.It was his granpa gun. That year I took off the sideplate I think for the first time since it left the factory in 1958. There was grease inside , kind of dry , black grease if I recall well.

Just a story I remembered
Regards, Ray
 
handejector said:
If you squirt some in the barrel, do the bullets go faster? :D
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Please! Everyone knows you don't squirt it in the barrel. You're supposed to hook it up to your pneumatic grease gun and pump it up until the bearing grease oozes out the muzzle. I wish you guys would learn how to properly lube a gun!
 
Where I live temps range between 15 to 115. Been using Rem Oil, Hoppes, FP-10, Tetra or Mobil 1 synthetic for years - whatever I have on hand. Anything available today is probably better than what was used 50 to 100 years ago, as long as it's applied per manufacture instructions. I see no need to change my approach. In Alaska our agency used Tetra. Stuff smells awful but never had a Glock or Sig freeze up at temps of -20. Got colder, just never shot at those temps.
 
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Bobbysixkiller said:
Just a couple drops in with the hammer pulled back. Work the action a couple times. It finds its place where it needs to be.
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That's been my approach, but since my revolvers are Centennials with no exposed hammers I apply it to the sides of the trigger where it goes into the frame.
 
Mobil 1 synthetic. Lubricates in all temperatures.
Many Racing Engines depend upon it and I don't think you're going to get your cylinder to spin as fast as they do.
just sayin.
 
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I recently opened up a Brazilian contract revolver that some well-meaning gun mechanic had lubed with some sort of grease that had since hardened. Years ago I worked in my uncles automotive glass shop and saw first hand what happens to white lithium grease used on window regulators. It all gets squished away from the moving parts where it then hardens.
Rem Oil for me.

308S
 
I've used Break Free exclusively for the last 40 or so years and never had any lube related issues. I take off the side plates once per year to thoroughly clean & lube. The one that get shot a lot might get it done twice per year due to dusty dirty conditions on southern AZ.
 
Break Free and other same type all in one products work fine if you clean them and relube on a regular or semi regular basis.
However if you spray that stuff into areas that you don't/can't clean out at least every few months it will lose its moisture and turn to a goo or even a hard lacquer. One place was the firing pin channel on Beretta 92 models,and smith and wesson semi-autos, its not a place that normally officers could get into. I know they shouldnt spray that into or around there but it happens. also in the disassembly lever area. The biggest issue was officers with several weapons and they would leave one sitting in the safe for months and then go to use it and couldn't get it apart or it failed to fire because of a gunked up firing pin. Just my experience.
I have for the last 20 + years used Miltech with good results especially on stainless guns. I warm up the metal under a light for a while and then apply .Maybe add a small amount after on the lugs rails or contact points. It seems to stay on the gun and have always been able to fire 2- 150 round matches back to back without relubing. If I want to thin it out a bit I add a few drops of Hoppes to the 2oz needle dropper. I know the military had issues with this Just my experience.
The only issue Ive had that I didn't like is if you store it where light hits it it turns dark after a year or 2. I took to buying the small bottles when there is a special no problems then. Just my experience.
 
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