Gun Safe
- Thread starter jules
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
socal s&w
Member
It's my understanding that Browning makes a very good safe.
Trying to find anything made in USA is not so easy.
Trying to find anything made in USA is not so easy.
Bob R
US Veteran
Liberty makes a wide range of safes, and also makes a lot of the "brand name" safes.
Find the local dealer and ask about discontinued models or scrath/blems he may have.
I got a great deal on a huge Liberty because it had been discontinued.
bob
Find the local dealer and ask about discontinued models or scrath/blems he may have.
I got a great deal on a huge Liberty because it had been discontinued.
bob
beemerrider
Member
My sons and I have 2 Fort Knox and 2 Liberties between us and I personally own 1 of each in very large sizes. I like both of mine; neither has been "attacked" by burglary or fire. Given the choice, I'd go for another Ft. Knox because:
1. The shelves are stronger and don't seem to sag under the load of a bunch of handguns.
2. The internal dividers seem stiffer as well.
3. It has a key pad. You would never get a dial lock open under stress; I guarantee it. And nobody is going to figure out you keypad combo if you don't use something obvious like the home phone #.
4. Better systems offered for holding handguns on the door.
By all means do some looking, contact your dealer and buy a used safe; you'll save some $$$, and who gives a rip if it has a couple scratches, it's a big obtrusive steel box that safeguards your S&W's; you can just leave the
Glock's out on top.
1. The shelves are stronger and don't seem to sag under the load of a bunch of handguns.
2. The internal dividers seem stiffer as well.
3. It has a key pad. You would never get a dial lock open under stress; I guarantee it. And nobody is going to figure out you keypad combo if you don't use something obvious like the home phone #.
4. Better systems offered for holding handguns on the door.
By all means do some looking, contact your dealer and buy a used safe; you'll save some $$$, and who gives a rip if it has a couple scratches, it's a big obtrusive steel box that safeguards your S&W's; you can just leave the
Glock's out on top.
Hofstet
Member
All good safes, add Heritage to your "to look at" list.
Wheelgunner840
Member
I like my Liberty Safe. I would by another. To each his own, but I would not have complete trust in an electrinic lock. A mechanical lock just seems more reliable to me. The lock on mine is keyed so that you can lock the dial. No one can try to guess the combo through trial and error.
I agree with the discontinued/ scratch and dent stuff. Safes, like everything else are way overpriced in my opinion.
WG840
I agree with the discontinued/ scratch and dent stuff. Safes, like everything else are way overpriced in my opinion.
WG840
Careby
Member
Oops.
I recently bought a Liberty safe from a local dealer and I have been very satisfied. If you look carefully at safes in local stores you might find one with a few scratches or blemishes. My dealer knocked $150 off his asking price when I pointed out a large scratch on the side of the safe I bought.
I also emailed the manufacturer of every safe I considered buying to be sure I was getting one made in the U.S.A. It was important to me.
I also emailed the manufacturer of every safe I considered buying to be sure I was getting one made in the U.S.A. It was important to me.
Last edited:
teesur
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Before I bought my safe I went to my local safe
and lock company. The owner told me that of the gun safes he was familiar with, he could only recommend Browning and Heritage and that he had bought a Browning because of the raised floor feature. He said that Prosteel Safe Co., who makes Browning, was an old line safe manufacturer with a great reputation who made an excellent product. I would suggest that you
check with your local safe man for his recommendation. I bought a Browning and am very pleased with it.
and lock company. The owner told me that of the gun safes he was familiar with, he could only recommend Browning and Heritage and that he had bought a Browning because of the raised floor feature. He said that Prosteel Safe Co., who makes Browning, was an old line safe manufacturer with a great reputation who made an excellent product. I would suggest that you
check with your local safe man for his recommendation. I bought a Browning and am very pleased with it.
84CJ
US Veteran
Liberty ,Heraitage Cannon, Fort Knox, American security all are very good. Browning does not make a safe their safe is made by Pro Steel I think. Our local shope dropped Browning when he inquired about the warrenty and was told call and we will tell you if it is covered.
My real advice would be get the biggest safe you can afford and have room for. Pay closer attention to fire rating. Most thugs cant get into a cheap safe. I go middle of the road in price. And I own two Liberty's. Both Lincoln series I think. W/E-locks. I tend to use them more since adding the E-Locks.
Check the warranty repairs can be expensive.
My real advice would be get the biggest safe you can afford and have room for. Pay closer attention to fire rating. Most thugs cant get into a cheap safe. I go middle of the road in price. And I own two Liberty's. Both Lincoln series I think. W/E-locks. I tend to use them more since adding the E-Locks.
Check the warranty repairs can be expensive.
tom turner
US Veteran
I just bought a Cannon.
As of this date and time, it still hasn't made it in the house. The garage is as far as it got . . . when a good friend (and body builder) and I failed to be able to lift it upright on top of an appliance dolly.
I tore a muscle in the middle of the lower arm . . . huge bruise underneath the skin but my doctor says there was no break.
So . . . I've gotta find some more folks to help "me" get it in. Of course, good ol' "me" can't do any lifting or straining on that arm for a while.
As of this date and time, it still hasn't made it in the house. The garage is as far as it got . . . when a good friend (and body builder) and I failed to be able to lift it upright on top of an appliance dolly.
I tore a muscle in the middle of the lower arm . . . huge bruise underneath the skin but my doctor says there was no break.
So . . . I've gotta find some more folks to help "me" get it in. Of course, good ol' "me" can't do any lifting or straining on that arm for a while.
Fuego
Member
If you live near a city, there should be a safe company selling used safes. I bought a good fire-safe made back in the 1930's and I had to remove the old shelving and document trays to install gun racks. It was a fun project, and I saved a bundle.
At the rate businesses are closing, a safe company should have some nice old safes for sale. Another advantage of buying a used safe from a safe company is that they will have overhauled the combination lock system, and lubed up the rack and pinions.
And best of all, they have specialized safe moving trucks and strong men with the proper tools to install your safe for you. They charge a few bucks to do the installation, but it is money well spent!
Another tip: Buy a bigger safe than you think you will ever need.
At the rate businesses are closing, a safe company should have some nice old safes for sale. Another advantage of buying a used safe from a safe company is that they will have overhauled the combination lock system, and lubed up the rack and pinions.
And best of all, they have specialized safe moving trucks and strong men with the proper tools to install your safe for you. They charge a few bucks to do the installation, but it is money well spent!
Another tip: Buy a bigger safe than you think you will ever need.
rburg
Member
We've been discussing safes here for a long time. We probably need a separate section just to cover it. The same thing takes place over on the sigforum, where they have a safe seller for St. Louis who posts regularly. I don't agree with everything he says, but then people who sell safes sometimes make self serving comments.
First and foremost, safes and gunsafes are two different animals. Gunsafes are combination locks on sheet steel cabinets. They're designed to keep idiots and fools honest. Anyone with any metal working ability or common hand tools can enter one. Sometimes with less effort than you realize.
The worst are the key locking cabinets. They still have a place, and once you out grow them they make excellent ammo storage lockers, or decoy's. The best safes are beyond most of our finances and probably beyond the structural ability of our homes. It leaves us in the middle. You can buy a good quality safe for $600 at Sam's club or WalMart. Its not huge, its not foolproof, or fireproof. But it will deter most smash and grab crooks. To many of them, it looks like Ft. Knox (not the brand, the base.)
If you want fireproofing, you need to understand the concepts. The material installed by safe makers is usually drywall. The same general stuff you have on the living room walls and ceiling. Its Gypsum board, which has the ability to hold water under normal circumstances. When it gets hot, it releases that water onto your prized guns (at super heated temps.) A much cheaper and easier solution is to just install a residential sprinkler head over the safe. Cold water on the outside of a steel box beats hot water on your guns. Some truths: Plastic pipe isn't good. Copper pipe soldered together will continue to hold up until the water stops flowing inside it. Threaded pipe may last even longer.
Safes are heavy and they attract attention. Do it yourself methods are OK if you have confidence, and trustworthy friends and offspring you can impose on. At about the 600# range, that option may not be so good. If you move the safe home yourself, do it after nightfall or with a tarp over it. If you bring the box, plan on not leaving it outside where anyone can see it. Burn it or take it to someone's home you hate and leave it out for their trash! It flags the house as having something worth breaking in to steal.
Buying from a reputable dealer may or may not be smart. Here's the test. Drive to the dealers or past it after business hours. If his large delivery truck has things like "Bud's Safes" or "Bud's Gunshop" plastered all over the side in large letters, it might be the wrong vendor.
Yes, I did everything right. I even arranged to have the safe I bought delivered on a Sunday after dark. Then Bud's guy didn't perform. (the same Bud's everyone raves about having 360s so cheap). So they arrived at rush hour a week later after I burned up the phone lines wanting my money back. He blocked traffic for about an hour with his oversized trailer, so everyone could see Dick was getting a new toy to store his guns in. NO, I wasn't comfortable with the idea, but he had my money and after a week or so, I was just kind of happy to get what I'd paid for.
Another hint, don't pay in cash so if the dealer turns out to be a jerk and do things you don't like, you can cancel the deal. Does Dick hold a grudge? Probably forever.
First and foremost, safes and gunsafes are two different animals. Gunsafes are combination locks on sheet steel cabinets. They're designed to keep idiots and fools honest. Anyone with any metal working ability or common hand tools can enter one. Sometimes with less effort than you realize.
The worst are the key locking cabinets. They still have a place, and once you out grow them they make excellent ammo storage lockers, or decoy's. The best safes are beyond most of our finances and probably beyond the structural ability of our homes. It leaves us in the middle. You can buy a good quality safe for $600 at Sam's club or WalMart. Its not huge, its not foolproof, or fireproof. But it will deter most smash and grab crooks. To many of them, it looks like Ft. Knox (not the brand, the base.)
If you want fireproofing, you need to understand the concepts. The material installed by safe makers is usually drywall. The same general stuff you have on the living room walls and ceiling. Its Gypsum board, which has the ability to hold water under normal circumstances. When it gets hot, it releases that water onto your prized guns (at super heated temps.) A much cheaper and easier solution is to just install a residential sprinkler head over the safe. Cold water on the outside of a steel box beats hot water on your guns. Some truths: Plastic pipe isn't good. Copper pipe soldered together will continue to hold up until the water stops flowing inside it. Threaded pipe may last even longer.
Safes are heavy and they attract attention. Do it yourself methods are OK if you have confidence, and trustworthy friends and offspring you can impose on. At about the 600# range, that option may not be so good. If you move the safe home yourself, do it after nightfall or with a tarp over it. If you bring the box, plan on not leaving it outside where anyone can see it. Burn it or take it to someone's home you hate and leave it out for their trash! It flags the house as having something worth breaking in to steal.
Buying from a reputable dealer may or may not be smart. Here's the test. Drive to the dealers or past it after business hours. If his large delivery truck has things like "Bud's Safes" or "Bud's Gunshop" plastered all over the side in large letters, it might be the wrong vendor.
Yes, I did everything right. I even arranged to have the safe I bought delivered on a Sunday after dark. Then Bud's guy didn't perform. (the same Bud's everyone raves about having 360s so cheap). So they arrived at rush hour a week later after I burned up the phone lines wanting my money back. He blocked traffic for about an hour with his oversized trailer, so everyone could see Dick was getting a new toy to store his guns in. NO, I wasn't comfortable with the idea, but he had my money and after a week or so, I was just kind of happy to get what I'd paid for.
Another hint, don't pay in cash so if the dealer turns out to be a jerk and do things you don't like, you can cancel the deal. Does Dick hold a grudge? Probably forever.
Andy Griffith
Member
Older, used fireproof "bank safes" are a good way to go if you can find them used, with a caveat or two...
A. They are MUCH heavier than their "gunsafe" counterparts, which means that typical moving guys can't haul it, and their is no way to get it into your house without an ostentatious display of equipment- and that equipment comes usually with a fairly hefty fee.
B. If you, a burglar or your brother's kids ever were to damage the lock in any way, chances are it will cost you a fortune to get it open, because it would be out of the league of your typical local locksmith. Many years ago, I knew of a gentleman that had an 1890's "Cincinnati Safe" go bad with him, and it took him a couple of weeks to find someone that could get it open, and his business nearly went broke because of it. It had an old clockwork style mechanism that you could see in the back of the safe through glass...he didn't know it had to be serviced and lubed occasionally!
I agree with the honorable brother Burg that ostentatious displays are not good...unless your name happens to be Jacob McCandles- then you might be saving some poor miscreant's life.
A. They are MUCH heavier than their "gunsafe" counterparts, which means that typical moving guys can't haul it, and their is no way to get it into your house without an ostentatious display of equipment- and that equipment comes usually with a fairly hefty fee.
B. If you, a burglar or your brother's kids ever were to damage the lock in any way, chances are it will cost you a fortune to get it open, because it would be out of the league of your typical local locksmith. Many years ago, I knew of a gentleman that had an 1890's "Cincinnati Safe" go bad with him, and it took him a couple of weeks to find someone that could get it open, and his business nearly went broke because of it. It had an old clockwork style mechanism that you could see in the back of the safe through glass...he didn't know it had to be serviced and lubed occasionally!
I agree with the honorable brother Burg that ostentatious displays are not good...unless your name happens to be Jacob McCandles- then you might be saving some poor miscreant's life.
rburg
Member
So does your gunsafe. You can ignore it for a long while, then it'll get the best of you. Its not a DIY project. Well... unless you're into adventure.
Andy Griffith
Member
Yes. +1!
bk43
Member
I think one's home determines what to look for. If you live in a safe(I know, relative term) suburban neighborhood with lots of other homes close and quick police and fire response times, most any safe with some fire protection will do. Mama will really like it if you get a purdy one if it'll be out in view. You're just trying to keep crack heads at bay and your valuables safe from fire for a few minutes until help arrives. If you live on fifty acres in the country it's a whole different deal. Then you're talking alarm system linked to a service, sprinkers and bank/jewelry store type safes. Most folks probably fall somewhere in between so I think you decide what to get according to your needs.
Our home is closer to the first scenario so we have 30 minute/235 degree fire rated safes with S&G locks patrolled 24/7 by over a hundred pounds of Akita. One larger safe has to sit out in the room so we went with a nice finish and extra decoration on the door. Adds nothing to security of course but does look nice.
Bob
Our home is closer to the first scenario so we have 30 minute/235 degree fire rated safes with S&G locks patrolled 24/7 by over a hundred pounds of Akita. One larger safe has to sit out in the room so we went with a nice finish and extra decoration on the door. Adds nothing to security of course but does look nice.
Bob
rburg
Member
The hot ticket on that is 2 safes, one the cheapest ones you can buy, with a wood gun cabinet just as good. You put in a bunch of junk rifles and shotguns, and even a Jennings or Lorcin. Then you take your good safe, full of your treasures, and place it behind a sliding wall or fake wall. Allow them to own the decoy, if they want it. The idea is they're probably weak in the thinking department anyway. The lure of some treasure is better than searching your home looking for something they don't know exists.
Similar threads
