Hammer Block on 638 Question

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So I've got a very nice 638-3 I use for pocket carry.

And as it has a shrouded hammer, I can "cock" it for single action by pulling back on the hammer (and getting a 2-pound trigger, the DA is 8.5 lbs).

My question: I assume the revolver has a "hammer block" so, if, as I am pulling back on the hammer to put it in single action, my finger slips and the hammer springs forward and hits the firing pin, BUT my finger is not on the trigger and the trigger is all the way forward, there in no danger if the gun firing. Is this correct?

I've yet to try this out at the range, but I guess I will.

Thought I'd ask here as I won't be shooting for a week or so.

And as long as I'm asking: I also have a model 36 no dash with an actual firing pin. Does the same go for that...hammer slips and goes forward but finger is not on trigger...so no BANG?
 
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I would never use the phrase “NO danger” to describe this situation, as just when you think something is impossible Mother Nature will prove you wrong.

That said, assuming no parts are missing or broken, unless the trigger is held to the rear the rebound slide and the hammer block will prevent the hammer from striking the frame-mounted firing pin in your 638 and the hammer-mounting firing pin on your 36 from reaching the cartridge primer.
 
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The function of the hammer block is to block the hammer from going full forward unless the trigger is pulled to the rear. So a properly functioning hammer block will prevent firing in a situation where control of the hammer is lost during the cocking of the hammer into its single action notch. This is also what makes S&W double action revolvers safe to carry with the chamber beneath the hammer loaded.
 
The hammer block rides up and down in its slot in conjunction with the position of the hammer. When the hammer is cocking back, the block goes down. When the hammer goes forward and your finger is NOT in the trigger, the hammer block rides up to block the gun from firing. It only remains out of the way only when the trigger is pulled and held.

You can test this with a pencil. MAKE SURE THE REVOLVER IS NOT LOADED! Cock the hammer. Place a pencil in the barrel. Don't pull the trigger with your finger, tap it with another pencil and let it snap forward. If the pencil in the barrel does not shoot out or move, your hammer block is working correctly. Under normal trigger pulling conditions, (with your finger) if the pencil shoots out when you pull the trigger with your finger - it is working as designed. NOTE: Even though you are using a pencil to test this, POINT it in a safe direction!
 
In theory ... and Murphy's Laws not withstanding ...

Point the gun in a safe direction when you test it !

Primed cases , sans powder and projectile would be my testing choice ... just in case Murphy shows up !

Gary
 
In theory ... and Murphy's Laws not withstanding ...

Point the gun in a safe direction when you test it !

Primed cases , sans powder and projectile would be my testing choice ... just in case Murphy shows up !

Gary

The old pencil in the barrel trick has been used for many decades - it works without the use of a live primer. If the firing pin does not come through the hole, the pencil goes nowhere. If the pin goes through the hole, the pencil shoots out. The gun must be held facing the ceiling of course so the pin can hit it.
 
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