Hammer bobbing

[Nukewaste]

Hello,

So, I was thinking about bobbing the hammer on my m36-10, less than 6 months old. I was thinking of buying one I saw on eBay for a m36-9. Does anyone know if there are any design changes to the hammer between the versions that would prevent a simple swapout? Should a 36-9 hammer fit and allow a 36-10 to function properly? Thanks for your wisdom

 

[Nukewaste]

Let me clarify real quick: I was thinking about HALF bobbing it, not completely remove the spur. I just look at it as some small "customization', kinda like showing its mine, that's all.

 

[robertrwalsh]

Lowering the mass of the hammer CAN give ignition problems. I am unsure I see any purpose in what you describe but, it's your weapon, you want it to look different, go with what makes you happy. Sorry I don't have any info on interchangability, but I am sure someone with more knowledge that me will jump in.

 

[Bladeswitcher]

Hello,

So, I was thinking about bobbing the hammer on my m36-10, less than 6 months old. I was thinking of buying one I saw on eBay for a m36-9. Does anyone know if there are any design changes to the hammer between the versions that would prevent a simple swapout? Should a 36-9 hammer fit and allow a 36-10 to function properly? Thanks for your wisdom

First, I applaud your strategy of altering a non-original part, while keeping the original part in storage so the gun can be returned to stock if you change your mind. That's wise.

As to whether it will fit or work. Only you can answer that. Pays your moneys and takes your chances. Give it a shot? What do you have to lose, other than the purchase price of the part?

 

[haywood]

I've ground down hammers on a few Snubs. It never caused firing problems. Here is my 37 partly ground and still can be cocked if I feel the need.

 

[ContinentalOp]

Just keep in mind that parts swaps in revolvers, even with the proper part, may require some fitting. I think CNC machining has reduced the need for that somewhat, but it still may be needed.

As far as bobbing a hammer possibly causing ignition issues, I think it's highly unlikely unless you're running light mainsprings. I doubt a partial bob like you're intending to do would cause any issues by itself. I had a 3" 65 and a 2" 64 with fully-bobbed hammers (and factory stock mainsprings), and I never had any ignition issues with them.

 

[Nukewaste]

I understand what you mean with a lighter spring. I installed Wolff springs, reducing power to, what it said, "8.5 lbs stock to 8lbs" with spring installed. Do any of you think that my cause light strikes?

 

[ContinentalOp]

If that spring is reliable in your gun now, I seriously doubt a partial hammer bob, by itself, will cause issues.

 

[steelslaver]

Bobbing the hammer does give you less mass, But, having less mass the hammer is accelerated to a higher speed by the main spring. As Energy+ Mass x Velocity Squared the increased velocity caused by lightening the hammer makes ups for its loss of mass. Plus quicker lock time.

I have bobbed my share of hammers and have never had a miss fire because of it. My carry guns are a 325 with a bobbed hammer, and 396 with a bobbed hammer, I use to compete with a model 28 with a bobbed hammer.

 

[Hondo44]

Hello,

So, I was thinking about bobbing the hammer on my m36-10, less than 6 months old. I was thinking of buying one I saw on eBay for a m36-9. Does anyone know if there are any design changes to the hammer between the versions that would prevent a simple swapout? Should a 36-9 hammer fit and allow a 36-10 to function properly? Thanks for your wisdom

The design change from 36-9 to 36-10 was the change to the J Magnum slightly longer frame window. The hammers are both MIM which began on the 36-9. So no, shouldn't be any problem.

 

[saemetric]

This is a factory bobbed hammer

 

[Nukewaste]

Hondo44
Thanks for the input. Great info. Is there a central source of info on various changes to model changes?

Saemetric
Beautiful gun, very functional looking.

Already ordered the 36-9 hammer. When it comes in and it's installed, I'll post pics and some thoughts

 

[Hondo44]

Hondo44
Thanks for the input. Great info. Is there a central source of info on various changes to model changes?

You're very welcome.

The best first book to get for all model S&Ws and that lists all the Model changes by dash # is the Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson (SCSW). The 4th edition is the newest.

 

[Nukewaste]

Excellent. Thank you for the source

 

[Injunbro]

I understand what you mean with a lighter spring. I installed Wolff springs, reducing power to, what it said, "8.5 lbs stock to 8lbs" with spring installed. Do any of you think that my cause light strikes?

Why change springs instead of de-burring the action to reduce friction? (the real culprit). Factory springs aren't made too strong, they're made to work properly. In the countless action jobs I've done I can only recall 1 that needed a lighter spring (replaced w/ a different factory spring).

 

[steelslaver]

Smooth beats light. Make sure there are no burrs or drags. But, the absolute best thing is to became a better at squeezing the trigger.

 

[Nukewaste]

Great insight.

I am curious: should there be a slight "pause" when staging the trigger before firing? I do kinda feel comfortable with that since it is only an EDC gun, not a competition gun with a light DA.

Or is it one continuous stroke without the pause?

 

[Nukewaste]

Why change springs instead of de-burring the action to reduce friction? (the real culprit). Factory springs aren't made too strong, they're made to work properly. In the countless action jobs I've done I can only recall 1 that needed a lighter spring (replaced w/ a different factory spring).

True. I've heard that changing springs is better and easier to change on a EDC weapon, and is recommended.

 

[ContinentalOp]

Great insight.

I am curious: should there be a slight "pause" when staging the trigger before firing? I do kinda feel comfortable with that since it is only an EDC gun, not a competition gun with a light DA.

Or is it one continuous stroke without the pause?

Opinions differ, but I prefer a straight-through pull. If you have to fire in self defense, you're not going to have the time to stage the trigger. Just pull straight through. I would argue the same applies when trying to make a more precise and/or distant shot.

For practicing, focus on smooth, consistent speed. The goal is to pull the trigger through as fast as you can while keeping the pull smooth and consistent. The slower you pull the trigger, the harder it is to keep the sights aligned. Get some snap caps and do dry fire practice for a few minutes every day. That will help improve your skill.

Also, don't neglect trigger release. If you want to get faster, learn to release the trigger as soon as the gun fires. Let the trigger return fully forward, but keep your finger in contact with the trigger; this helps minimize the chance of short-stroking the trigger. Again, dry fire practice with snap caps is your best option with getting the hang of it.

Eventually, you'll be able to cycle the trigger quickly with minimal sight disturbance (nobody can hold a gun completely still).

Of course, live fire practice is also important to incorporate recoil control.

That's my approach. Others have different opinions. One isn't necessarily better than the other, but I think the approach I use is most applicable to self defense scenarios.

Even better, get some hands-on instruction from someone who knows how to run a defensive revolver (Grant Cunningham comes to mind). Short of that, I'd recommend his books on defensive revolvers and snubs as a good guide.

Hope that helps.

 

[ContinentalOp]

True. I've heard that changing springs is better and easier to change on a EDC weapon, and is recommended.

My opinion is that if you want to improve the trigger pull on a defensive revolver, the best approach is to have a gunsmith do a trigger job while retaining the factory springs. The most important thing with regard to a defensive gun's function is reliability. A gunsmith can polish key points on the internals and make the trigger pull smoother and lighter, but factory springs will help maintain reliability as well as keep the trigger pull within factory specs. I've read about gunsmiths who will actually add an extra power mainspring to ensure reliability after doing a trigger job.

If you do decide to change springs, it's important to test reliability with your self defense ammo.

Another thing to keep in mind is that using a lighter rebound spring can negatively affect trigger return and increase the probability of short-stroking the trigger. I like a strong trigger reset, and I wouldn't go lighter on the rebound spring. I passed on getting a LCR because I didn't like the weak trigger return. At one point, I even tried looking for an extra-power rebound spring.

One final point: Regular dry fire practice may make a slight improvement in the trigger pull, a bigger benefit is that it helps make your trigger finger and grip stronger, both of which will make DA trigger pulls easier. You can also use hand strengthening equipment to increase your grip strength. I like Captains of Crush grippers, but there are lots of options out there.