Hammer bobbing
- Thread starter Nukewaste
- Start date
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Lots of good advice from ContinentalOp.
My opinion-
If you stage the trigger, it's harder to get it going again once you stop the movement (called static inertia). That actually makes it harder to make an accurate shot, and more likely to pull the shot sideways.
If you're going to run the trigger fast, you have to learn to move your trigger finger both directions, not just ride the trigger forward, especially if you have a lighter action (target or competition).
I would not change the springs or lighten the action on a carry or duty gun. If you ever need it, you won't have any problem pulling whatever trigger it has. There will be plenty of adrenaline to make it easy.
These are conclusions I have come to over many years of revo shooting. Everyone should keep an open mind, try different things, and decide what works best for them.
My opinion-
If you stage the trigger, it's harder to get it going again once you stop the movement (called static inertia). That actually makes it harder to make an accurate shot, and more likely to pull the shot sideways.
If you're going to run the trigger fast, you have to learn to move your trigger finger both directions, not just ride the trigger forward, especially if you have a lighter action (target or competition).
I would not change the springs or lighten the action on a carry or duty gun. If you ever need it, you won't have any problem pulling whatever trigger it has. There will be plenty of adrenaline to make it easy.
These are conclusions I have come to over many years of revo shooting. Everyone should keep an open mind, try different things, and decide what works best for them.
Great advice and insight from all, many thanks
ContinentalOps:
After re-reading what you said about the rebound spring, I was thinking the same thing. I only changed the main-spring. Went from "factory 8.5# to new 8#", so I think only 1/2# difference.
I avoided the rebound spring because of the opinion you were thinking...
ContinentalOps:
After re-reading what you said about the rebound spring, I was thinking the same thing. I only changed the main-spring. Went from "factory 8.5# to new 8#", so I think only 1/2# difference.
I avoided the rebound spring because of the opinion you were thinking...
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I would never castrate one of my revolvers.......It accomplishes nothing.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
You're over reacting...it's just a haircut, a little off the top.
You're over reacting...it's just a haircut, a little off the top.
So why do it? It DOES NOT look cool.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
Because you can get a lighter D/A trigger pull by doing it. I only shoot D/A in matches. When you have a really good D/A, you don't need S/A. It's about performance, not looks. Who cares what it looks like anyway? It's for working guns, not safe queens.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
Like said above, they are not the same. The 36-9 hammer is the #826060B and the 36-10 uses the #826060A.
Thank you much. Other than the "A" or "B", do you happen to know the difference? I understand how important it is to "use the right part number or tool" as such.
Good point. In your experience/opinion, how much lighter do you think for a j-frame? Of course it'll be my carry piece.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
In order to get the lighter trigger pull, you have to put in a lighter mainspring for a J frame, or back off the tension on K,L or N frame. The lighter weight of the hammer allows a lighter spring pressure to get it up to speed in time. Also, a lighter tension of mainspring allows for a lighter rebound spring that still gives a snappy trigger return. You can shave off a pound or 2 of trigger pull just with the rebound spring.
I think the best you're going to do to lighten a J frame is to get a duty type spring kit from Apex or Wolff. If the spring kit works with the hammer spur on, it will be only slightly better with it bobbed. There isn't much weight in a J frame spur. To me, the best reason to bob the hammer on a carry gun is so it doesn't hang up on your clothes on the draw when you desperately need it RIGHT NOW.
The spring kits are a noticeable improvement in trigger pull over factory, but make darn sure it works every time with your SD loads before using it for EDC. Federal makes the lightest primers, so it might be good to use Federal SD factory ammo.
The only caveat is this only works on centerfire guns. The rimfire ones need a heavy hammer and spring to crush the folded over rim. Apex Tactical has a new rimfire hammer for 617s, (K frame), but nothing for .22 J frames.
I think the best you're going to do to lighten a J frame is to get a duty type spring kit from Apex or Wolff. If the spring kit works with the hammer spur on, it will be only slightly better with it bobbed. There isn't much weight in a J frame spur. To me, the best reason to bob the hammer on a carry gun is so it doesn't hang up on your clothes on the draw when you desperately need it RIGHT NOW.
The spring kits are a noticeable improvement in trigger pull over factory, but make darn sure it works every time with your SD loads before using it for EDC. Federal makes the lightest primers, so it might be good to use Federal SD factory ammo.
The only caveat is this only works on centerfire guns. The rimfire ones need a heavy hammer and spring to crush the folded over rim. Apex Tactical has a new rimfire hammer for 617s, (K frame), but nothing for .22 J frames.
Here is my Colt's Agent with a professional hammer bob job by a local
Smith. He also removed the notch from the hammer where it locks on
to the sear, thus rendering it totally DAO. I agree with Protocall, when
you need your gun you need it quick. You don't need a hammer snagging
on the draw. I also prefer open top holsters for a little quicker draw.
You don't need to waste a split second deciding DA or SA. Save a split
second here and there and it all adds up.
The Agent is in the photo at left.
2nd from left is a favorite KD's gator trimmed pancake.
3rd from left another favorite Baker pancake.
You may have noticed that the Baker pancake is made for a
3" barrel, but my Agent is a 2" barrel. Red Nichols put a positive
spin on that for me. With so much weight in the cylinder above
the belt, the gun would have a tendency to tip out. That extra
inch helps reduce that tipping.
BTW those gorgeous grips are extended boots by Craig Spegel.
Smith. He also removed the notch from the hammer where it locks on
to the sear, thus rendering it totally DAO. I agree with Protocall, when
you need your gun you need it quick. You don't need a hammer snagging
on the draw. I also prefer open top holsters for a little quicker draw.
You don't need to waste a split second deciding DA or SA. Save a split
second here and there and it all adds up.
The Agent is in the photo at left.
2nd from left is a favorite KD's gator trimmed pancake.
3rd from left another favorite Baker pancake.
You may have noticed that the Baker pancake is made for a
3" barrel, but my Agent is a 2" barrel. Red Nichols put a positive
spin on that for me. With so much weight in the cylinder above
the belt, the gun would have a tendency to tip out. That extra
inch helps reduce that tipping.
BTW those gorgeous grips are extended boots by Craig Spegel.
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Soooo...
I purchased the part, then after some careful planning and fit-up to see if it was feasible, I decided against it. And I didn't want to risk screwing it up just to bob the installed hammer.
Just FYI, the 36-9 hammer didn't seem to fit the 36-10 gun, and I didn't feel qualified enough to figure out why, so I just said forget it, and love what I got. Pics included. Check it out.
Also, after consulting with a seasoned 'smith, he said it'd be fine just like it is.
Moral of the story: I don't know Jack...
I purchased the part, then after some careful planning and fit-up to see if it was feasible, I decided against it. And I didn't want to risk screwing it up just to bob the installed hammer.
Just FYI, the 36-9 hammer didn't seem to fit the 36-10 gun, and I didn't feel qualified enough to figure out why, so I just said forget it, and love what I got. Pics included. Check it out.
Also, after consulting with a seasoned 'smith, he said it'd be fine just like it is.
Moral of the story: I don't know Jack...
Attachments
Protocall_Design
Vendor
The new one doesn't have the groove for the lock. That's why it won't fit. At least one reason, anyway.
Yeah, when I dropped the new one in place and then tested it, it wouldn't even move past a quarter inch or so. I would have to grind it and fit it up a little more to be functional, so I decided against it.
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