longaction
Member
Try lightly chamfering the edges of each charge hole with one of those round ceramic rods used for sharpening knives. Worked for me on 3 different smith revolvers.
Help for a 19-4 with Stuck Casings
- Thread starter Longman
- Start date
If cleaning the snot out of it doesn't help, you could try running a reamer in each chamber to see if it would smooth things out. You can rent one from 4D reamer rentals for $42 plus shipping.
Your cylinder should be recessed for the rims. If so you really need a cylinder from a -4 or earlier as the extra rear length for the recesses rides against the frame lug when cylinder is open. If you went to a non recessed cylinder you would have about .06 back and forth slop when cylinder was open. This could be cured by replacing the frame lug with one fit for a non recessed cylinder. You would also need to avoid the cylinders setup for the gas ring on the yoke. I am not surre which models that experiment was tried. In any case you would probably need some fitting to get another cylinder to work. You can get lucky and have it fit right with no end shake or it might need yoke adjusted for end shake or clearance and timing checked, Also the barrel to cylinder gap might be a bit off. So in any case your probably going to need some one with S&W skills.
Your cylinder should be recessed for the rims. If so you really need a cylinder from a -4 or earlier as the extra rear length for the recesses rides against the frame lug when cylinder is open. If you went to a non recessed cylinder you would have about .06 back and forth slop when cylinder was open. This could be cured by replacing the frame lug with one fit for a non recessed cylinder. You would also need to avoid the cylinders setup for the gas ring on the yoke. I am not surre which models that experiment was tried. In any case you would probably need some fitting to get another cylinder to work. You can get lucky and have it fit right with no end shake or it might need yoke adjusted for end shake or clearance and timing checked, Also the barrel to cylinder gap might be a bit off. So in any case your probably going to need some one with S&W skills.
Before replacing the cylinder try shooting Winchester or Remington. If you have the same extraction issue, replace the cylinder.
I had a similar experience with my Highway Patrolman. It is in your interest to avail yourself to all of the options and advice given , but in the end it is likely that you need to replace the cylinder , based on what you have shared.
I could not make out from the images - is your cylinder recessed? If so , take the trouble to find a replacement that is a match in that regard. Maybe , just maybe , the replacement will drop in - but don't count on it. Chances are you will need a competent 'smith to fit , time , etc. Good time to get the action improved while you are at it.
I found a good condition replacement on Gunbroker. If you are in need of an excellent gunsmith I can provide a recommendation.
I'd like to see how your situation plays out. Best of luck.
I could not make out from the images - is your cylinder recessed? If so , take the trouble to find a replacement that is a match in that regard. Maybe , just maybe , the replacement will drop in - but don't count on it. Chances are you will need a competent 'smith to fit , time , etc. Good time to get the action improved while you are at it.
I found a good condition replacement on Gunbroker. If you are in need of an excellent gunsmith I can provide a recommendation.
I'd like to see how your situation plays out. Best of luck.
I think there is a very good chance the chambers have either been bored oversize or, and quite likely, have expanded due to hot handloaded ammo. If the chambers are that bad from hot ammo, what else has been battered out of spec? How bad is the end shake?
max503
Member
I've got a picture (I could post it.) of six slugs that were dug out of a revolver barrel. Apparently, the first one stuck and the other five rounds were fired in behind it.
I'll bet something like that could bulge a revolver's cylinders.
Sounds like the OP's gun has a history of abuse.
I'll bet something like that could bulge a revolver's cylinders.
Sounds like the OP's gun has a history of abuse.
Last edited:
some 40 years ago when Super
Some 40 years ago, when Super Vel ammunition was popular with Law Enforcement, I used to see a lot of this with M19s. The pressure pushed out the thin part of the chamber under the locking notches. The only good fix is another cylinder. It was common enough that I ground a special tool to push the steel back. Seemed to work but not a good solution.
Some 40 years ago, when Super Vel ammunition was popular with Law Enforcement, I used to see a lot of this with M19s. The pressure pushed out the thin part of the chamber under the locking notches. The only good fix is another cylinder. It was common enough that I ground a special tool to push the steel back. Seemed to work but not a good solution.
I didn't have any lead nose .357 magnums, but following your method with a copper jacketed .38 special, the bullet fit without any force into each cylinder face. It wasn't possible for me to see any asymmetrical differences, if any exist.
Does the degree of chamfer matter? And any ideas on how this resolved your issues? Maybe I'm just not following what you're saying
I can see why you would suggest different brands. I've also fired Fiocchi 158 grain FMJs that would stick, but not become stuck in the cylinder. They just required some force on the ejector rod, no hammer and punch rod though.
Thanks, I would definitely like the gunsmith recommendation since the one I used had very poor communication. Also the gunbroker listing would be helpful. And yes the cylinder is recessed as I've recently learned from this thread.
As far as the history of the revolver, I was told that my uncle bought it brand new in the late 70s or early 80s and kept it holstered in a work vehicle. I don't recall any other pistols in his collection when he died, so this may have been his only one. Interestingly, if any family member was going to shoot some ridiculous hand loads, my money would be that it was him. My dad has some reloading experience from some point in his life, so he is highly suspect as well and is almost certainly a co-conspirator.
The_Truth
Member
Gun is totally ruined. I'll help you out and give you $200 for it though.
I used to own a 19-4 and knew eventually the cone would crack or something would happen to the cylinder. I bought parts off someone on this site about 12 years ago, a 4" and 6" barrel and the cylinder. Can't remember the user but think he lived in Hawaii. I ended up selling my 19-4 a couple years ago and never needed the parts.
Sold the barrels to a few that had cracked forcing cones but no one ever needed a cylinder so I've kept it thinking someone would need it eventually. Could be your lucky day if it will fit your gun. Someone on here will have to tell you if it will fit though, I don't know.
I may still have a barrel left but was only concerned with looking for the cylinder. The parts are used not new.
Last edited:
Expanded cases means you need a new cylinder. And you will most likely need to get one for a -4 to avoid extra fitting. One of the engineering changes was switching the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder. I'm not sure which dash that was but it was either 3 or 4. Any other cylinder will likely need the matching yoke as well
That explains why I see so many listed on eBay with the yoke. So if the change was done on -3, then a -3 should work on a -4? This was one of my concerns when looking on Numrich's website. The -5 cylinder listed compatibility up to -8, while the -3 listed compatibility with -1 and -2. Additionally, the description of the -3 cylinder says w/o gas ring while the description of the -5 cylinder says with gas ring.
When you checked with S&W Customer Service, did they say they couldn't fix it due to lack of parts? I would have thought that a current M19 cylinder would work here.
I was very concerned with the service life which was why I bought the parts. When I bought my 19-4 new it came with no warnings about shooting magnum loads and that was what I shot, but never 125 gr, mostly 140 gr or 158 gr.
After hearing about all the failures of 19s I dropped my loads to somewhere between Spl and Magnum.
I still own a 66-5 and that one too never sees heavy loads.
If you want this cylinder I'll give you a good price on it, I'd rather it got used than just sitting in my safe.
Similar threads
