Help Identify my revolver

[Awastatyme]

Im following the sticky post.
There is no model number behind the yolk, it only has 8206 which I assume is an assembly #
It is a hand ejector style
The SN is 260474
38 S&W special ctg
4" bbl
fixed sights
It has 4 screws: one up by the hammer, 2 around the trigger and 1 in the trigger guard.
It also has some pachmayr gips on it.

I picked this up for $200 from a Pawn shop since the nickel is in bad condition I will look into having it striped and either re applied or durcoat/cerakote.

All the marking seem to be really light. As you can see the S&W logo is almost gone. You can bearly read the caliber size on right side of the bbl. I can make out just a few of the patent pending (Oct 8 1901, Sept 14 xxxx, Dec x xxxx, Feb x 1906) on the top of the bbl. And I can only see the H (in Smith) & Wesson on the left side of the bbl. You cant even see them in a photo, which is why I didn't provide one.

 

[gmborkovic]

OH MAN, buffed, nickel with gold. Stop, just clean and shoot if safe.
At $200 you are on target. No room here to increase value. Your gun, your money. Best.

 

[DWalt]

You are wasting your money to do anything to it. Use it to buy something in better condition. Your M&P would date from around 1917.

 

[Awastatyme]

Is there any polish you guys recomend to buff out the light marks? Is there anything to do about the parts that flaked off. Or just keep those parts oiled?

 

[Awastatyme]

OH MAN, buffed, nickel with gold. Stop, just clean and shoot if safe.
At $200 you are on target. No room here to increase value. Your gun, your money. Best.

You said "if safe". Is there some thing to look for? This is my first revolver

 

[DWalt]

You might try Flitz or Mother's Mag metal polishes. Don't expect miracles. Looks like you have a pair of fairly nice post-WWII grips.

 

[Buford57]

For safety inspection for the new revolver buyer this old article is hard to beat. Skeeter Skelton's body lies a-moldering in the grave, but his advice goes marching on.

Complete Guide To Buying Used Handguns

 

[Awastatyme]

Looks like you have a pair of fairly nice post-WWII grips.

So those are not the original grips?

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

So those are not the original grips?

No. And your gun is generally referred to as having 5 screws. When you take off the grips, you will see another sideplate screw under the top of the right grip.

Nothing special, but if everything works, I'm pretty sure that it's worth $200.

 

[Targets Guy]

Just clean it and give it some loving. It hasn't had much of that lately.

 

[jmace57]

Welcome to the forum! We're glad you're here.

 

[glowe]

Welcome. You have a 38 Hand Ejector, 4th Change, shipped from the factory around 1917. This is someone's idea of adding flash to the old workhorse. I believe that is chrome and not nickel, and along with the gold trigger & hammer it is a sight to behold. Those stocks are decades later than the revolver.

Any gun that is early 100 years old, should be carefully checked out before firing. Cylinder play, loose lockup, hammer push-off are just a few things to check and many gun buyers will have a gunsmith check out guns to make sure they are safe.

 

[merl67]

Use Mothers Mag on it here are two I picked up at police sale both are looking better each day I work on them.

 

[Awastatyme]

Welcome. You have a 38 Hand Ejector, 4th Change, shipped from the factory around 1917. This is someone's idea of adding flash to the old workhorse. I believe that is chrome and not nickel, and along with the gold trigger & hammer it is a sight to behold. Those stocks are decades later than the revolver.

Any gun that is early 100 years old, should be carefully checked out before firing. Cylinder play, loose lockup, hammer push-off are just a few things to check and many gun buyers will have a gunsmith check out guns to make sure they are safe.

The cylinder does slide back and forth a little while its open, maybe about an 1/8" or less. But while locked up, its solid. I cocked the hammer back and tried to push it forward and it did not release (on an empty chamber).

 

[Inusuit]

I would have given $200 for it, just for the opportunity to see if I could restore it. If the cylinder locks up and the hammer cannot be pushed off when cocked, I'd probably shoot it with some light loads like target wadcutters to start. Remember it's 100 years old, so no plus P ammo. The grips alone are probably worth $40-50 if in very good condition.

 

[roaddog28]

Welcome to the forum and your revolver will make a nice shooter. As others have indicated there in no collectors value. I have a M&P 38 special 4 inch period year 1923. Much like your. It does not have the original grips but that is no problem. Remember it is a "shooter". I use standard pressure lead semi-wadcutters. The action is very smooth and the revolver is more accurate than myself. If your not sure about whether the revolver is safe, take it to a gunsmith. A good gunsmith can check for end play, timing and check the the barrel and cylinder condition. You can check yourself. There are good check out guides on the internet. Shoot and enjoy the revolver. $200 is a reasonable price. Here is a picture of mine.
Good luck,
Howard