Help Identifying a Hand Ejector

[RevolverJunkie]

Hello All,

Just joined the forum. What a great place! I just purchased a S&W Military &Police (I believe). It needs a serious cleaning and I had to use a magnifying glass to read all the serial numbers (so no photos) on the butt frame, underside barrel flat ant the back of the cylinder. They all match and have no prefix - 456689. What year range would that place it? Also, it has no serrations on the trigger. Does that suggest a replacement part? Thank you.

 

[DWalt]

Not where I can look the SN up. But it is a .38 Military and Police model from around 1923-24. Grips are not original, not of the type used at that time. Very common.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Thank you, DWalt!

Do you know if the trigger without serrations means it too was replaced? I have a circa early 1948 M&P with a serrated trigger but I’m as far from an expert as you can get on this subject matter. Thank you

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! DWalt is on target: a .38 Military & Police Model 1905, 4th Change. Smooth triggers were standard on the non-target model. Your grips are from the 1928 to 1941 time period. The grips that are standard for that gun are non-medallion, round top service grips.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Thanks, Wiregrassguy!!!

You guys and this forum are aces!!!

Have a great weekend!

You both certainly gave me an awesome start to mine!

 

[glowe]

Is there a question if the trigger was replaced?? I do not know, but appears that someone other than the factory blued that trigger. it should match the finish on the hammer, since neither were blued.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Good eye, Glowe.

I noticed that once I got the revolver home. My other M&P has a case-hardened trigger and hammer. Given Wiregrassguy’s post that the non-serrated trigger is period correct, any thoughts on how much that detracts from the revolver’s value? The bore has really good rifling and the timing is good, but not great, with positive lock up on every cylinder with slight thumb-applied drag, but I have yet to fire it.Thank you.

 

[glowe]

Remember that there were a million Military & Police revolvers made by the start of WWII, so very common. Add to that a standard revolver, common barrel length, worn stocks and worn bluing, all bringing the value down. These guns sell regularly for $300, with or without blued trigger. I once bought a very nicely refinished M&P target revolver and an owner blued both the trigger and hammer. i disassembled the gun, soaked those two parts in Navel Jelly for a night and it removed the bluing. Reassembled the gun and have to admit it had a much improved appearance. Didn't shoot any better, but I liked the way it looked and shot it for years.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Thank you for the response, Glowe!

Learning as I go here. Story of my life.

Upon closer inspection while cleaning the revolver yesterday, I noticed both the hammer and trigger have the same color. If blued, they were done in unison. Not sure if all 1923-24 manufactured models were casehardened. If so, I too would prefer that look.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Hammer & Trigger

Hello All,

Glowe mentioned that my recently purchased M&P that DWalt and Wiregrassguy graciously devoted their time to identify the year range of manufacture (1923-24) had blued trigger that was not periodic correct. I believe DWalt informed me and Wiregrassguy validated that the grips are not. On closer inspection, both the hammer and trigger are what looks to me factory blued (or a professionally done). Did this run have blued hammers and triggers or were they all case hardened. They are on my 1948 M&P. Thank you.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Also, where can I buy vintage, period correct grips for the M&P 1923-24 manufacture run? Numrich has a right-side-only grip. Doesn’t seem like a great replacement option. Thank you.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Did this run have blued hammers and triggers or were they all case hardened.

Hammers and triggers were case colored on standard production revolvers. I suppose S&W could have blued them on a special order, but it is unlikely.

Also, where can I buy vintage, period correct grips for the M&P 1923-24 manufacture run?

eBay is a prime source. You can also find them here in the classifieds or post a WTB ad. K-frame square butt grips are what you need. They look like these grips on my Regulation Police:

Also, NC Ordnance has similar looking replica grips.

 

[glowe]

. . . Upon closer inspection while cleaning the revolver yesterday, I noticed both the hammer and trigger have the same color. If blued, they were done in unison. Not sure if all 1923-24 manufactured models were casehardened. If so, I too would prefer that look.

There were no pre-WWII steel revolvers that were either plated or blued. They were case hardened and often show striking coloration. I would simply remove the bluing from those two parrs, don't polish them and reinstall them. You can place a WTB ad here on the Forum for a set of checkered convex round top service stocks for a Military & Police revolver or watch ebay.

 

[DWalt]

Of all the pre-WWII K-frame grips, those from the 1920s are probably the least difficult to find.

 

[RevolverJunkie]

Thanks Wiregrassguy and Gary!

I am so glad I found and joined this forum. What a knowledge base and generosity to share! Everyone has been so helpful.

 

[Muley Gil]

You can somewhat mimic the color casehardening by stripping the bluing off of the trigger and then "spotting" cold blue on it, lighter in some places, darker in others. Clean and then oil.