Hello, my father gave me this revolver it's my only K frame size gun so far and I'm not sure what to call it other than a pre model 10 any other info would be appreciated, it has 4 screws SN 19244 I wish I had the original grips but I'm not sure what to purchase for it I also believe some barrel work may have been done could this have been a SW repair? Thanks!
Help identifying please
- Thread starter Brush2000
- Start date
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That is a Model 1899 made late in the manufacturing period. Probably shipped in 1902. Original grips would likely have been black hard rubber. The Model 1899 was the first .38 M&P chambered for the .38 S&W Special. I see a caliber stamp but it reads .38 S&W. That's odd to me.
Thank you for the info! I'll have to find some 1902 hard rubbers, do you think it's safe to shoot with lower pressure lrn
Most .38 S&W ammunition would be lower pressured to begin with, as it's considered more of a boutique, obsolete caliber now.
Grips will look something like these, but they tend to be pricey. You might get an antique styled round butt Thai wood grips from one of the Ebay sellers to tide you over until you find a set exactly like you need,.
DWalt
Member
There are some sellers of replica grips, usually made of black plastic, not hard rubber. https://gungrip.com/smith-and-wesson-44-da-and-1902-m-and-p-1st-model-round-butt-grips.aspx
The .38 S&W barrel stamping is odd. Is there a serial number stamped on the bottom of the barrel? Take extra care that the extractor rod knob does not come loose. I believe there were only about 21K of those 1899s made, I do not remember the exact number, but yours was close to the last one. The .38 Special was originally developed as a more powerful version of the then-U.S. military issue .38 Long Colt cartridge. It had a slightly longer case so it could hold more black powder. The .38 Special was designed to use black powder, but was very soon loaded with smokeless powder. Black powder factory loads were still available into the 1930s.
The .38 S&W barrel stamping is odd. Is there a serial number stamped on the bottom of the barrel? Take extra care that the extractor rod knob does not come loose. I believe there were only about 21K of those 1899s made, I do not remember the exact number, but yours was close to the last one. The .38 Special was originally developed as a more powerful version of the then-U.S. military issue .38 Long Colt cartridge. It had a slightly longer case so it could hold more black powder. The .38 Special was designed to use black powder, but was very soon loaded with smokeless powder. Black powder factory loads were still available into the 1930s.
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Welcome to the Forum.
It looks to me that the barrel has been shortened. The factory would have stamped a repair date on the left side of the grip frame and also stamped a star behind the serial number on the butt. Neither are present.
It looks to me that the barrel has been shortened. The factory would have stamped a repair date on the left side of the grip frame and also stamped a star behind the serial number on the butt. Neither are present.
Those 1899s would be very easy to shorten the barrel on. No lug under the barrel. Cracked forcing cone? No problem, take the barrel off thread it for another inch or so, file a new notch for the pin and make sure it tightened up with the front sight straight up.
Did they use .500-36 on the 38s. I know they did on the 32-20s as I have a new old stock barrel
Did they use .500-36 on the 38s. I know they did on the 32-20s as I have a new old stock barrel
IIRC, they are the same thread.
That would make for a pretty thin barrel shank on a 38. I think J frames get away with it because the amount of exposed shank is way shorter.
