No mfg'r would even attempt to 'save' them. Liability is too great.
Springs get Tempered (drawn Back) at around 750F,,it depends on the spring and the alloy,,the type of quench, etc. But that's a good range of temp.
I do mine at 735F because thats the limit my old Lee Lead Pot will crank up to.
I use the molten lead to draw the temper after hardening them with an AO torch and quenching in warm used motor oil.
Works for me, may not for you. Every body seems to have a favorite 'correct' way of doing this. Same with case hardening and stock finishing.
Results are what count.
Much above 750F you start to get a spring that is lazy and takes a set. Go above that more and it isn't a spring any more.
Once you hit right about 900F with steel, the material starts to glow red (gives off it's own color). Incandescent I believe is the word.
Below that temp, you get the steel to turn the Tempering colors.
The last of the tempering colors is a fine deep Blue/Black. That's right around 830/850F.
That's Charcoal Blue temperature.
So those older S&W, Colts, Winchesters, etc that we all love to admire had their frames and parts taken to that temp to achieve that fine Blued finish.
Carbonia Blue was/is no different as far as Temp. Same 830/850F. Just using a somewhat easier method with a gas furnace and revolving tumbler to do the work that was done by hand in the open hearth Charcoal Blue method.
Early production firearms with flaws in the frames and parts were sometimes 'fixed' by Brazing. Filling the flaw with brass and then polishing it smooth again. Then designating that firearm for Plating finish (nickel usualy)
Brazing temps are around 1700 to 2000F. Well into the 'It's been in a fire' temps.
But were are talking older guns from another time. BP and early smokeless frames and parts. But whay can't frames and parts such treated still be used with such low pressure loads w/o fear.
Brass frame C&B revolvers are made up into cart conversions and IF the shooter sticks with BP or very mild smokeless loads, they hold just fine.
Everything has a limit.
Weren't the early Handejectors 'un-heat treated' steel,,or at least considered soft in comparison to later production?
They are still usable with loads that are compatible with the strength of the steel of the era. I'm sure many here own and shoot these early 20th cent revolvers in 38spcl and 32-20 WITH appropriate loads and think nothing of it.
These 2 are a 38spcl and a .22rf.
I see no reason not to restore if done as a personal project AND with the mindset that they have been through a fire.
Keep any loads appropriate for the guns and their history of damage,,,and the sky will not fall.
Will they be worth the effort?,,not financially.
But sometimes some of us just like the challenge and like saving orphans from the ravages of things like fire, flood and abuse.
Beats watching TV or the snow falling.
