Help with my J-Frame

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Hello all,

I have purchased a used M360J. I paid around $400 for it, and while I know this is a cheap gun by any standard, it is a big deal for me. I wanted to carry this gun every day. I've put ten rounds through it.

The other day, I went to my parents house. My mother hates guns, so I left it in its holster in the car overnight. The next morning, I took out the gun and found that, to my surprise, the cylinder was covered in small rust patches over a few locations. Another small rust patch was present on the yoke bar. I was not happy. I applied some CLP and was able to remove the redness, revealing that the rust seemingly went down to the bare steel of the cylinder.

This I did not like. I am sure it was my fault, leaving a gun in the car overnight and subjecting it to these temperature fluctuations. I'm used to my Glock and its practical invincibility, so I made a mistake. To those responding: I recognize my mistreatment of the gun, and I am here looking for help. Please go easy on me.

In any case, I have elected to re-finish the cylinder and possibly the yoke, as I cannot find any replacements online. I will be using an off the shelf cold bluing kit. I honestly don't want any grief about this; it's not why I'm posting here. As far as I'm concerned, a consistent finish is acceptable. It does not have to match the exact look of the original gun to stop a bad guy, and I am confident I will be able to achieve a suitable finish. If it comes out poorly, I'll strip it and send it out.

In order to proceed, I needed to remove the side plate screws, at least the front one. I attempted this with the best screwdriver I could find, and ended up with a small amount of slipping. Didn't like that.

I then went over to my grandparents tool shed and raided the drawer for the closest fitting driver I could find. Managed to get two screws out, but the front screw is still in place and has become fairly badly stripped. I have applied a *lot* of torque to this screw. One of my Craftsman screwdriver tips snapped into pieces. I will be happy to replace the screw; I simply want to get it out now without damaging my beautiful scandium.

So, all in all, while I've made a few mistakes, and learned how brutally unforgiving these J-frames are, I still want to save this gun. Can anybody recommend a way to remove this screw? There is still some unstripped slot profile, just not a ton.

Finally, is it really reasonable for a gun to rust so significantly in a single night in a car? I had oiled the surfaces of this thing. Aren't these supposed to last many years, before they start to really deteriorate? Could my suede holster be the cause of the problem?
 

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It's very possible your holster may have some contaminant that caused the corrosion. At this point I'd suggest you send the gun back to S&W before you get into irreparable trouble with the yoke screw. Give them a call and ask for their help but don't go into a bunch of unnecessary detail or go on about your cold reblueing plans. They're the experts. Just ask for their help and hopefully they will take good care of you. :)
 
Don't beat yourself up about the rust. I agree with the above poster about it may be the leather. I make knives and along with that comes sheath making. I once bought a side of leather and made 4 sheaths from it that would rust the blades overnight. might also suggest you get a good set of screwdrivers before doing any more work on your guns. Good luck with your project.
 
I'd recommend either back to smith or to a good local gunsmith. I've ran in to many used smith's where people have had a screw back out once so they have loctite them. A gunsmith can light heat if needed to remove loctite or dress up the damaged screw head and remove with a impact drive with an oversized bit. Good luck.
 
I have a 340 pd that has sat door pocket of my car for five years in the Minnesota weather that fluctuates between -20 and 100+. The gun has never exhibited any visual rust on the frame or cylinder. Send yours into S&W for repair.
 
Gents (or ladies),

Thank you all for your input on this. The good news: I've managed to repair the spotting on the cylinder to very near the original look, using some cheap blue touch-up compound.

I have ordered two sets of replacement screws for the frame. This week, I will take the gun to a smith and have the problem screw removed. I may replace the stock thread locker with something a little gentler once this is all said and done.
 
A must have for removing any screw on a S&W revolver is a simple driver set with 4 blades made especially for working on a S&W. I also found out the hard way. I typically remove the grips, latch and cylinder screws for cleaning and waxing. Since I found this set I have never had an issue. Try it.

S&W SCREWDRIVER | Brownells
 
Gents (or ladies),

Thank you all for your input on this. The good news: I've managed to repair the spotting on the cylinder to very near the original look, using some cheap blue touch-up compound.

I have ordered two sets of replacement screws for the frame. This week, I will take the gun to a smith and have the problem screw removed. I may replace the stock thread locker with something a little gentler once this is all said and done.

Sorry to hear about all your troubles! A Smith & Wesson in good shape (yours seems to have been) should NOT rust in one night unless it actually got wet. From your post, I would also suspect the holster had moisture in it and I would not use that holster anymore.

Sorry to say that even though the cold bluing might touch up the damage visually, it won't be a long lasting finish - just the way it is, unfortunately. Cold blue is just not durable - at least that's been my experience over almost 40 years.

When you get the Yoke screw out, DO NOT USE ANY thread locker at all. There is simply NO REASON to. In fact, I regularly remove that screw each and every time I clean a revolver which enables Cylinder removal. Cleaning the Cylinder and Revolver when it is out of the Frame is so much easier and more efficient.

Get yourself a set of Brownell's Magna Tip Bits and a Law Enforcemnet type handle - you won't regret it! They do make a S&W designated 5 piece set, but I'd get a larger set for future use - and NOT just on firearms.

I would also call S&W and talk to them about the guns finish flaking in just a few hours - they might be in a good mood that day and actually throw you a free-bee. It's certainly worth a shot! ;)
 
I have 360j ,live in a humid area, and leave it in the pickup overnight a lot without a holster. . Not a sign of rust anywhere . Send it back
 
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