THEmodelof1989
Member
Anybody want to guess material on these?
They look very plastic to these eyes.
Homemade grips picture thread
- Thread starter mikerjf
- Start date
They look very plastic to these eyes.
bulletslap
Member
To quote George Goebel, do you ever feel the World is a Black tuxedo and you are a pair of brown shoes ?
lawandorder
Member
Would they be wood painted to simulate jigged bone?
Yeah, but that is what makes it all enjoyable---trying something a bit different. I think they turned out rather well.
home made grips
Here is my first attempt at fabricating grips, Ruger Super BH in 1989.
This past winter I carved these Stocks for my 1951-52 K22 and my 1954-55 Outdoorsman.
the emblems in the stocks are re-claimed from junker stocks I picked up for just such projects.
I have a few more such projects scheduled for this winter.
Here is my first attempt at fabricating grips, Ruger Super BH in 1989.
This past winter I carved these Stocks for my 1951-52 K22 and my 1954-55 Outdoorsman.
the emblems in the stocks are re-claimed from junker stocks I picked up for just such projects.
I have a few more such projects scheduled for this winter.
Attachments
max503
Member
I am totally in awe of anyone who can make grips. How do you do it? I've done a fair amount of woodworking but grips intimidate me.
hkcavalier
US Veteran
Eh, not in the same league as what's already on here, but it's what I got.
Grip is some kind of tropical hardwood I got from a guitar maker.
Grip is some kind of tropical hardwood I got from a guitar maker.
Winchester Model 61 forend I just finished a couple nights ago.
Needs a few coats of thinned out finish brushed into the checkering. That'll highlite the grain and the black streaks in the color much better.
Better photography would help too!
Some kind of Euro Walnut I think, maybe it's Claro,,I really don't know.
The butt stock had a really bad split & check in the comb after rough turning.
It was filled but then trashed as unusable so that's when I picked the set up. The filler was terrible,,looked like a piece of blond plywood! But the wood is very lite colored too w/o any staining.
Price was good!
The checkering pattern is a take on the Winchester 'B-Carve' style that they offered as an option.
The Rifle will get a full coverage engraving job in the direction of their #8 pattern, But I don't do a strict copy, much more coverage and more detailed.
I've done a few of these on 61, 62 and 63's.
Here's a pic of a butt stock for a Win Model 63. The B-Carve pattern checkering is complete but no staining done. Just raw wood. You can really see the contrast betw the raw and stained finishes.
This is American Walnut.
That rifle I did a couple years ago IIRC.
I think this is the same rifle/stock with the checkering stained and finished. Rifle assembled, ect.
I think this is 24 LPI on the checkering.
The butt stock checkering that goes with the forend in the first pics is done on one side.
I changed the B Carve pattern a bit. I did it just because I can I guess.
I get bored with same type stuff. Even making up a matched pair for a customer of anything was not a fun thing for me.
This one will roll over the top of the grip.
20LPI. I used to do most in 24 & 26LPI but it's harder and harder to find decent replacement checkering tools. Especially the 3 line cutters.
Some are just junk. Spacing all over the place.
I restored a Purdey shotgun a year or so back and the orig 28LPI needed a recut. I nearly destroyed a part of it with the cutting heads from the one source that had any they were so far off in spacing. I made do with some old cutters slightly dull and a couple hand made ones.
New work I rough in with an MMC power cutter. But I've never been able to master the art of doing an entire piece with just the elec power machine. It has always been hours of work to cut it to final shape with hand tools.
I bought the MMC in the 70's when I was loaded up with checkering work from a couple local shops. Some new work, some re-cut work. No one else wanted to do it. I really didn't either!,,but it was work and $$. Maybe I worked too cheap!
But it lead to other gun work and getting further into the gunsmithing biz.
FWIW,,The big rat rail file stuck in the back of the fore end is my 'fixture' for holding the piece while checkering it.
The rough teeth on the file bite into the wood in the mag tube inlet, sort of letting you screw the piece on to the file. I then just clamp the file in the vise at a handy horizontal and sit and checker it. I can turn the piece as needed on those file 'teeth' to move the wood while working on rounded surfaces.
Same idea that a checkering cradle gives you but no cradle to get in the way on jobs where I can use this simple method to hold the piece.
The same rat tail file will be used to hold the butt stock thru the neck where the thru bolt comes out.
I usually use my engraving vise as the bench vise. Comfortable to sit and work at.
Needs a few coats of thinned out finish brushed into the checkering. That'll highlite the grain and the black streaks in the color much better.
Better photography would help too!
Some kind of Euro Walnut I think, maybe it's Claro,,I really don't know.
The butt stock had a really bad split & check in the comb after rough turning.
It was filled but then trashed as unusable so that's when I picked the set up. The filler was terrible,,looked like a piece of blond plywood! But the wood is very lite colored too w/o any staining.
Price was good!
The checkering pattern is a take on the Winchester 'B-Carve' style that they offered as an option.
The Rifle will get a full coverage engraving job in the direction of their #8 pattern, But I don't do a strict copy, much more coverage and more detailed.
I've done a few of these on 61, 62 and 63's.
Here's a pic of a butt stock for a Win Model 63. The B-Carve pattern checkering is complete but no staining done. Just raw wood. You can really see the contrast betw the raw and stained finishes.
This is American Walnut.
That rifle I did a couple years ago IIRC.
I think this is the same rifle/stock with the checkering stained and finished. Rifle assembled, ect.
I think this is 24 LPI on the checkering.
The butt stock checkering that goes with the forend in the first pics is done on one side.
I changed the B Carve pattern a bit. I did it just because I can I guess.
I get bored with same type stuff. Even making up a matched pair for a customer of anything was not a fun thing for me.
This one will roll over the top of the grip.
20LPI. I used to do most in 24 & 26LPI but it's harder and harder to find decent replacement checkering tools. Especially the 3 line cutters.
Some are just junk. Spacing all over the place.
I restored a Purdey shotgun a year or so back and the orig 28LPI needed a recut. I nearly destroyed a part of it with the cutting heads from the one source that had any they were so far off in spacing. I made do with some old cutters slightly dull and a couple hand made ones.
New work I rough in with an MMC power cutter. But I've never been able to master the art of doing an entire piece with just the elec power machine. It has always been hours of work to cut it to final shape with hand tools.
I bought the MMC in the 70's when I was loaded up with checkering work from a couple local shops. Some new work, some re-cut work. No one else wanted to do it. I really didn't either!,,but it was work and $$. Maybe I worked too cheap!
But it lead to other gun work and getting further into the gunsmithing biz.
FWIW,,The big rat rail file stuck in the back of the fore end is my 'fixture' for holding the piece while checkering it.
The rough teeth on the file bite into the wood in the mag tube inlet, sort of letting you screw the piece on to the file. I then just clamp the file in the vise at a handy horizontal and sit and checker it. I can turn the piece as needed on those file 'teeth' to move the wood while working on rounded surfaces.
Same idea that a checkering cradle gives you but no cradle to get in the way on jobs where I can use this simple method to hold the piece.
The same rat tail file will be used to hold the butt stock thru the neck where the thru bolt comes out.
I usually use my engraving vise as the bench vise. Comfortable to sit and work at.
OLDSTER
Member
All beautiful pictures of both accomplished makers and novices. When it comes to woodwork, I'd have trouble making a toothpick from a tree.
When it comes to woodwork, I'd have trouble making a toothpick from a tree.
Last edited:
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