DarylLawman
Member
Flitz....Great and it comes off easy
How do you remove cylinder ring burns on stainless guns?
- Thread starter Wishbone
- Start date
twodog max
Member
My feeling exactly. On my guns it is just going to happen again so I don't worry about it.
Walter Rego
Member
I have found that after getting the face of the cylinder spotless, it is easy to clean after firing if it has a light coat of Corrosion-X on it. Most residue wipes right off and what doesn't comes off with some Hoppes No 9 ~if~ you give the solvent a few hours to act. I don't like to use abrasives, even something like Flitz. If you don't get in a hurry you'll be surprised at how many popular solvents will work if you give them some time.
TexasRaider
Member
I wish I could remember the name, but in the mid-90's there was a cleaner you could get by the tube (the foil metal kind like super glue comes in, just much larger), its consistency was somewhere between a paste and a cream, and had an off white, slightly pink color. I used it frequently to clean the rings off of a S&W 657 4" I had back then. When used with a stiff toothbrush, it did a pretty decent job of getting the carbon off. I just wish I could remember the name of that stuff....
Ed Fowler
Member
Don't laugh, just try soaking it in rubbing alcohol, then a light buff with a paper towel.
The only cleaning solvent I use any more. But I still like the smell of Hopies!
The only cleaning solvent I use any more. But I still like the smell of Hopies!
Miles Away
Member
Call me OLD school, but I always used a pencil eraser. I did see some good ideas in reading the previous posts and will give them a try.
bountyhunter
Member
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A nylon brush and chrome polish removes them with a minimum of abrasion. I never use metal brushes on guns any more.
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bountyhunter
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because we can....
I don't.............They are just gonna come the next time you pull the trigger.
Lead Away is pretty abrasive. I used it twice and was not impressed.
I use a two-step process:
1. Use Hoppe's "Elite" Gun Cleaner (pump spray - no ammonia) with a medium tooth brush and a reasonable amount of "elbow grease".
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Elite-Cleaner-Spray-Bottle/dp/B0013RA3A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454367712&sr=8-1&keywords=Hoppe%27s+Elite+Gun+Cleaner"]Amazon.com : Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner, 8 oz. Spray Bottle : Gun Solvents : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412mKVNNo5L.@@AMEPARAM@@412mKVNNo5L[/ame]
2. This should remove most of the carbon. If any carbon remains, then use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish with the medium tooth brush. Be sure to run a patch down the cylinders several times to remove any residual polish.
Works every time.
Now the bad news - just as the other forum members have already mentioned, the next trip to the range will bring you all the way back to Square #1. Kinda makes you cringe a bit when that first round goes down range with that spotless cylinder face.
I also have a brass tooth brush, but it is very abrasive and is by no means the best or even preferred solution for me. I rarely, if ever, use it. The two steps above should work just fine for anyone.
Note: After cleaning that cylinder face and the cylinder bores I always dry off the cylinder, the area under the extractor star, and then add two small drops of oil on the extractor rod at the bearing point just in front of the face of the cylinder.
I use a two-step process:
1. Use Hoppe's "Elite" Gun Cleaner (pump spray - no ammonia) with a medium tooth brush and a reasonable amount of "elbow grease".
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Elite-Cleaner-Spray-Bottle/dp/B0013RA3A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454367712&sr=8-1&keywords=Hoppe%27s+Elite+Gun+Cleaner"]Amazon.com : Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner, 8 oz. Spray Bottle : Gun Solvents : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412mKVNNo5L.@@AMEPARAM@@412mKVNNo5L[/ame]
2. This should remove most of the carbon. If any carbon remains, then use Mother's Mag Wheel Polish with the medium tooth brush. Be sure to run a patch down the cylinders several times to remove any residual polish.
Works every time.
Now the bad news - just as the other forum members have already mentioned, the next trip to the range will bring you all the way back to Square #1. Kinda makes you cringe a bit when that first round goes down range with that spotless cylinder face.
I also have a brass tooth brush, but it is very abrasive and is by no means the best or even preferred solution for me. I rarely, if ever, use it. The two steps above should work just fine for anyone.
Note: After cleaning that cylinder face and the cylinder bores I always dry off the cylinder, the area under the extractor star, and then add two small drops of oil on the extractor rod at the bearing point just in front of the face of the cylinder.
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I found a...
I found a really mild cleaner for kitchen metals that comes from Shaklee. I'm not worried about removing metal because it works so quick and easy that it doesn't have a chance to harm anything.
I have an idea. We know before we go to the range that the stout loads are going to burn the front of our cylinders. Anybody ever try putting something on the face of the cylinder like a little wax or maybe petroleum jelly? Teflon spray? Pam????
I found a really mild cleaner for kitchen metals that comes from Shaklee. I'm not worried about removing metal because it works so quick and easy that it doesn't have a chance to harm anything.
I have an idea. We know before we go to the range that the stout loads are going to burn the front of our cylinders. Anybody ever try putting something on the face of the cylinder like a little wax or maybe petroleum jelly? Teflon spray? Pam????
...I don't. What won't wipe off with a good solvent, stays...
andyo5
Member
Exactly! There is no reason to worry about these rings unless there is significant buildup. When you clean the gun, dab bore cleaner on them and let the cylinder sit for awhile. Rub the cylinder face with a cloth and any excess material will be removed.
No need to obsess over the rings. They are normal.
Semi Chrome -- It removed the blue discoloration off the exhaust pipes of my 1967 750 CC Norton Scrambler!
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The best way is a lead cloth. It really is like a miracle from the heavens. Its 8 bucks, and it will take the toughest, oldest lead and debris off. Use a bit of elbow grease and small sections of the cloth as you clean each part of the chambers. No other tricks needed.
They're great, but best for only occasional use -- they remove metal, too; and of course, never use one on a blued gun.
I guess i would only deep clean that part with that cloth for long term storage, if youre going to sell it, or every few months so no damage gets done, if any. Not daily or weekly though.
BruceM
Member
KG-1 Carbon Remover is one of a few very aggressive carbon removal products and what I use when standard solvents aren't getting the job done.
Bruce
Bruce
Silverbullit
Member
You are probably referring to "Star-bore"?
White tubes, I still have some, it smells exactly like autosol. (Most usual polish compound here in europe, dunno if you have it over there mates?)
And I humbly suspect Starbore was "watered down" Autosol.
It does however polish down stainless despite claiming harmless on guns.
(And I suspect that is the reason it vanished)
Also have it "Semi-chromy" had a similar packaged product that not quite lived up to the user friendliness of "Star-bore"
But I'm half senile so you can't trust a word outta me mate
I tried most and the best I stumbled over is casey birchwood lead away and second vote on otis ultrabore (085?).
But seriously, Casey Birchwood Lead-away cloth!
If theres better I'd sure like in on it
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Burn rings on a stainless cylinder
I like spending time keeping my weapons GI clean or better. My favorite revolver is a 3 inch 686 plus that gets lots of range time. It's stainless so the burn rings really show. Nothing I tried works as quickly and effectively as Mothers mag and aluminum polish. I usually remove the cylinder first so I'm holding less. Dip the tip of a Q-tip in the paste and rub a small area till you see how it's working. wipe with a dry terrycloth rag (hand towel). Looks new or better in minutes. Even the outside of the forcing cone came out bright and shiny. Use a pointed wooden kabob stick or a round tooth pick to get in tight spots.
I like spending time keeping my weapons GI clean or better. My favorite revolver is a 3 inch 686 plus that gets lots of range time. It's stainless so the burn rings really show. Nothing I tried works as quickly and effectively as Mothers mag and aluminum polish. I usually remove the cylinder first so I'm holding less. Dip the tip of a Q-tip in the paste and rub a small area till you see how it's working. wipe with a dry terrycloth rag (hand towel). Looks new or better in minutes. Even the outside of the forcing cone came out bright and shiny. Use a pointed wooden kabob stick or a round tooth pick to get in tight spots.
Flitz Bore Cleaner
I recently bought some "Flitz Bore Cleaner". Safe for blued, SS, & nickel. No ammonia, non-abrasive. Works great for those heavy powder burns on the cylinder face & sides. I dab some on with my finger & rub it around. Let it sit a minute. Wipe off with a clean soft rag. A microfiber towel brings out the shine on my SS revolvers. Great on the whole gun. I really like it.
.
I recently bought some "Flitz Bore Cleaner". Safe for blued, SS, & nickel. No ammonia, non-abrasive. Works great for those heavy powder burns on the cylinder face & sides. I dab some on with my finger & rub it around. Let it sit a minute. Wipe off with a clean soft rag. A microfiber towel brings out the shine on my SS revolvers. Great on the whole gun. I really like it.
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jmr986
Member
Like Strouper said.
Mother's doesn't take much. Try and keep it out of the cylinders. I use the Mother's after I try and clean the cylinder face with conventional methods. I save the cylinder holes and the Hoppe's for last to make sure any residue is gone. Works well for us OCD types.
Mother's doesn't take much. Try and keep it out of the cylinders. I use the Mother's after I try and clean the cylinder face with conventional methods. I save the cylinder holes and the Hoppe's for last to make sure any residue is gone. Works well for us OCD types.
