How to move a 3000lb. safe?

[rags]

The inside dimensions are about a half to a third of the outside.
It has those "stepped" doors on the inside, a lot like the safe in the Dahlonega gold museum.

I've got the visual now.

A guy I work with said that the local safe company in town,(I know where they're at... can't remember their name), has a safe mover that literally grabs it and "walks" it up and down stairs. Like an appliance dolly on steroids with an electric motor.

Sounds like a no hassle way but I'm sure it ain't free!

rags

 

[Bob R]

You will need several sections of 2" Steel pipe a little longer that the safe.

YOu will need to find a way to lift the save u enough to get the pipe under one side of it.

You might want to also consider some protection for the concrete floor, 3/4" plywood will probably work.

You need at least 2 or 3 pieces larger than the footprint of the safe.

As it is 3000 lbs you will need 4 or 5 people, I base that on the fact that 2 people can move a 1000 pound safe no problem.

As you move the safe, you continue to move the pipe from the back of the safe to the front, same with the plywood.

If there is some type of flooring you do not want scratched, then put carpet under the plywood.

That should work just fine, but instead of steel pipe I would use 3/4" - 1" wooden dowels cut to size and roll it on that. Just make sure you have enough of them, at least six for this job. If moving on carpet and using plywood as you roll off of one move it to the back and keep leapfrogging the plywood. Make sure there are no gaps between the sheets of plywood the roller could drop into.

bob

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

Years ago when I was working in the HVAC trades (back then we called it air conditioning ) we had about a 10 ft piece of iron hard wood with a flat steel scoop at the end. Wedge that sucker under air handling units ot condensing units and lever them up. Put galvanized pipe under tham and move them wherever you wanted. We called the lever a "mule" Some of them actually had little wheels under them. One guy would lever whatever we were moving up off the floor and than two or three would push it where we wanted it to go without even having to use the pipes.. Friction and all that. Worked like a champ

 

[m1gunner]

You must have some equipment and a plan before you start. Chain hoists, heavy duty come-alongs, chain, wedges, wood blocks, levers, cribbing, some "rolling pipe" and a bunch of 2X4's just in case. A PTO powered winch and 3/4 inch cable would come in handy as well.

If you don't have this stuff laying around and have to pay for it, you will be better off paying the freight to have it done. The pros have some specialized tools and experience to do this, they won't need the redneck toolbox I mentioned above. But my way will work.

You will not be able to just man-handle it, it will be like trying to hold onto a 2 ton greased pig, it will go where it wants.

 

[Firehouse]

I can tell you from experience, from someone who has had to go out and extricate someone out from under a 3000 pound safe that they thought they could move to save a few bucks, hire someone. If there is anyone available in the area to do it, by all means pay them. The money spent will not compare to the injury and damages sustained if things don't go according to plan.

On a side note, if you must, go rent a pallet jack. The guy I bought mine from used one to move it around on.

 

[DOEBOY1]

put your in your cell phone 911 so all you have to do is press send when the worst happens save you about 2 seconds. It took me and 3 determined guys 3 hours to move my 960 lb safe over a concrete doorway and then 6 more feet. Really sucked for me. Doeboy

 

[sheriffoconee]

Years ago when I was working in the HVAC trades (back then we called it air conditioning ) we had about a 10 ft piece of iron hard wood with a flat steel scoop at the end. Wedge that sucker under air handling units ot condensing units and lever them up. Put galvanized pipe under tham and move them wherever you wanted. We called the lever a "mule" Some of them actually had little wheels under them. One guy would lever whatever we were moving up off the floor and than two or three would push it where we wanted it to go without even having to use the pipes.. Friction and all that. Worked like a champ

we call those "Johnson Bars" around here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johnson_bar_(tool)

 

[ChattanoogaPhil]

However you decide to do it take pics and post

 

[rags]

I can tell you from experience, from someone who has had to go out and extricate someone out from under a 3000 pound safe that they thought they could move to save a few bucks, hire someone. If there is anyone available in the area to do it, by all means pay them. The money spent will not compare to the injury and damages sustained if things don't go according to plan.

AMEN!

rags

 

[Kanewpadle]

I used to move safes for the last company I worked for.

Best bet, hire someone.

If you just have to do it yourself, use the dowel or steel rods.

You WILL need a johnson bar to raise the safe. Even with a johnson bar, it's still not easy. You need to get the bar started. Three or four guys MAY be able to tip the safe just enough to get the bar underneath. But that's always the risky part. We forgot our johnson bar once. It's wasn't fun.

Depending on how far you have to move the safe use the rollers. If you have a long way to go or the surface of the floor is uneven or inclined, use a pallet jack.

Above all, coordinate every aspect of the move with all involved and make sure everyone knows their job.

Check the rating on your trailer. Check your tires.

Definately use the forklift to put the safe on the trailer. You won't be able to get in on the trailer any other way.

 

[m1gunner]

Definately use the forklift to put the safe on the trailer. You won't be able to get in on the trailer any other way.

Whoa, now. You are talking Georgia, here. There is ALWAYS another way.

Any good Jawja Boy worth his salt knows someone with a front end loader, backhoe, boom truck, wrecker, or crane. Sometimes they have a friend that has ALL these just sitting in his yard (especially with today's economy).

Forklifts are nice, but narrow warehouse lifts don't do well on sloped or uneven ground. Again, it is a matter of the correct tool.

As mentioned above, if this becomes a DIY move, pics are a must.

 

[loutent]

My 450 lb Cannon from Costco was a PITA - "call the man" - quoting from the original AG show when speaking to Aunt Bea about the freezer on the porch...

Hey Andy - "call the man" - really!

 

[venomballistics]

Engine hoist to get it onto a pallet jack.

 

[Kanewpadle]

Whoa, now. You are talking Georgia, here. There is ALWAYS another way.

Any good Jawja Boy worth his salt knows someone with a front end loader, backhoe, boom truck, wrecker, or crane. Sometimes they have a friend that has ALL these just sitting in his yard (especially with today's economy).

Forklifts are nice, but narrow warehouse lifts don't do well on sloped or uneven ground. Again, it is a matter of the correct tool.

As mentioned above, if this becomes a DIY move, pics are a must.

Yes, but those other ways are how people get hurt.

The minute you try to "make do" with what you got instead of doing it the right way, things go wrong and people pay.

 

[NE450No2]

I helped a friend move about 2 years ago, he had 2 safes that were 1100 to 1200 pounds each.

We used wooden dowels, and had a few of them split.

On a 3000 LB safe I would use thick wall steel pipe.

 

[cussedemgun]

With the door open, the door should lift up off the hinge pins. By removing the door & shelving, you will probably reduce it's weight by 20% or so.

Use a high-lift jack (sometimes called a handyman jack) on the front. You can lift from the inside of the top front. Lift about 5 inches, slide a 2 inch pipe back past the ballance point & another pipe under the front edge before letting the jack down. Now leap-frog the pipes as you go, the more pieces the better (5 or 6 will do you nicely)

Go slow & easy, use a pry bar from underneath the back to move a few inches at a time rather than pushing on the top.

I once moved a 45,000 pound boiler 50 feet across the floor & out onto a concrete apron by basicly this same method. Just don't get in a rush!

Jim

 

[LVSteve]

Use a Hefty Bag. Oh wait, that's only for pianos.

 

[enfield]

. . . and you wonder why some folks leave their safes sitting on the pallet.

 

[handejector]

You need:

10 or 12 pieces of 1/2" galvanized pipe. Too many, but better than too few.
Two BIG pry bars.
Some steel wedges, clean and smooth- NO mushroomed heads. Sharpen them like a wood chisel- till one side is flat with a long bevel on ONE side only.
2 or 3 big ol' dumb boys. Not TOO dumb. NO snatchy-jerky types.
Some luck.

Do not put pipes under it too close- they can bind on each other.
Too much weight for wood dowels, and they offer too much friction for turns.

I would NOT lift that safe high enough to get a pallet jack under it. I would not pull the door, if it even comes off- it will be very hard to handle.

On another note-
Is it worth it?
Does it have any asbestos in it? If so, I would not want it. When you go to move it down the line, many pros will not touch an asbestos safe because of disposal fees. The ones that will charge a bunch.

Sweat & Tears= OK
Blood= Bad

Your brain is the most important equipment you will have.
(so, you may be hurtin')

 

[n4zov]

I vote for paying somebody to move it but if you are going to do it yourself, please make some photos or maybe a video for Youtube.com! I have a feeling it will be an entertaining experience.