How would you build a long range varmint rifle?

I have 2 that are varmint rifles and 2 that I guess would be considered cross-overs. The varmint guns are a Savage 12bvss stainless steel .223 with a 24" heavy barrel and a Remington 700B in .22-250, also with a 24" heavy barrel. The Remington has a Leupold 6x18 scope and the Savage wears a Swarovski Z5 3.5x18. Of the two, the Savage gets shot much more than the Remington because both ammunition and replacement barrels are less expensive and replacing the barrel is a 20 minute job in the garage.

You are thinking about that, right? Barrels are a consumable item. If you do a lot of shooting you'll want something that is easy to rebarrel. There are a lot of options now for systems that use a barrel nut and make replacing the barrel quite easy.

My other 2 semi-varmint rifles are both .243's. One is a Ruger No. 1 with a 26" heavy barrel and a Leupold 6x18, the other is a 1903 Springfield action with a 24" heavy barrel and a Leupold fixed 12x scope. Both will reach well past 600 yards and I've taken the Springfield out to 1,000 with a 95 grain Nosler Ballistic-Tip bullet, but that's right on the edge of going subsonic.

With your $1500 budget, I would suggest finding a used Savage 12bvss with the laminated wood stock. Try to find an older one with the blind magazine so you don't have to worry about magazine availability. There are several on GB right now with scopes already installed that fit into your budget and leave enough $$ left over for a spare barrel and the tools to install it.
 
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Okay, I'll chime in on this one only because I've done it cheaper than $1,500.00. A lot cheaper. I got a 220 Swift chambered Rugar M-77 for a bit over $110.00. Yes, I've heard all the stories about chamber and throat burnout with the 220S and didn't realize what I had until I paid for the rifle. After I got it home a had a good look and the bbl seemed to be in good shape however I reasoned if it wasn't then I could have it rechambered to 22-250 without spending a fortune. My real expense for this has been in loaded ammo and empty cases for reloading.

Please note, I've always been a fan of the Rugar M-77 and would replace most of my bolt action rifles with that model except that I would never give up my Parkar-Hales.

Starting from scratch I'd find a cheap M-98 Mauser receiver, a carbon wrapped SS barrel, mated to a laminated thumbhole stock, and chamber it to a 6.5 mm cartridge. You can't go wrong with 6.5 X 55 Mauser.

Llance
 
About 15 years ago I bought a new Savage 10 BAS (now discontinued) in 308 Win. for about $1250 new OTD. I put a Nightforce 8-32 x 56mm w/30mm tube. This is the less expensive Adjustable Objective scope. This gun and scope pretty much shoot one hole to 250 yards and 5" at 1085 yards. I use my loads that duplicate Federal Gold Medal Match 155 grain Palma ammo.

I own 7 different Savage rifles of different actions, that all shoot very good. I really like the 10, 11, & 12 actions.

A Savage Varmint rifle with a good quality scope will do very well to 500. With practice, your expectation should be (with quality ammo) 3" or less at that distance. Pop cans and Prairie Dogs would have a great deal to fear!

When #2 son came home from the Marines (2003), I got him a present of a used 110 Left Handed Bull barreled 223 with a 6-18 scope. It shot 1/4" @ 100 yards with a very cheap Winchester ammo!

All of my older (50's-70's) Savages were bought used. You might think about that. (I got rid of a 2007 Anschutz in 22 Hornet, because my 1957 Savage 340 out shot it consistently!)

Ivan
 
A used varmint rifle might need a new barrel and other expenses.
Leupold glass is fine, and they stand behind their products.
Sent a new 2.5-8x32mm handgun scope, to replace a used one I bought. Original owner let the gas out as I was told.
Have read that Vortex is worth consideration.
Just a matter of fixed, variable and power.
 
I agree with “Shotguncoach.” I have two Savage Model 12 Low Profile Varmit rifles, a 22-250 with 1:9 barrel twist and 243 with 1:9.25 barrel twist. With the 22-250, I’m shooting 60 to 70 grain bullets accurately to 450 yards. Beyond 450 yards, I’m using the 243 with 75 to 87 grain bullets. Primary use is woodchucks and prairie dogs. Also have a Remington 722 in 222 Remington’s for more economical shooting at less than 250 yards.

The Savages are heavy rifles (10 lbs), but very accurate out of the box. I have 6-25 power Nikon scopes on both rifles. Unfortunately, Nikon no longer markets scopes under their name. Rifles can be purchased new for around $1100.
 
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I bought the 6.5 Creedmore conversion above as a Remington Mohawk 600 in 308 for $550, the Boyd stock was $300, the new model 700 heavy barrel was $200 (700 barrels fit 600s) and the 6-18 scope was another $250 or so. So with shipping and things like an extra barrel lug I could use to set the head space. I probably ended up with about $1400+ in it doing all my own work. A Remington frame wrench will run you about $100

Nice thing about these actions is headspace is set by the thickness of the lug. You can buy them for about $20 and machine them to the perfect thickness or use a thin one, install your barrel and rent a finish reamer and go, no go gauges to setup you headspace
 
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Narragansett, I looked into turning a Remington XP-100 into a varmint rifle and got to the $2,000.00+ mark rather quickly. The money wasn’t as much an issue as the date of completion, one to two years. I have never had an abundance of patience and at sixty-seven I may not have an abundance of time either so I let that project pass.

I don’t see a lot of 6mm Remington rifles or ammunition in northeast Georgia or western North Carolina where I shop. Ammo appears to be available on-line though.

Remington once offered the 700 Sendero in .270 Winchester, if you care to search the auction sites.

There are gun shops/public safety dealers that often have LE trade-in sniper rifles, usually in .223 and .308, which may be worth a look. Most are Remington 700 PSS models which have the HS Precision stock with aluminum bedding block, and may have aftermarket triggers.

Howa and CZ both offered HB varmint/tactical rifles too.

I own a CZ 527 .223 HB in the HS Precision stock, Remington BDL Varmints in .223 and .22/250 and a PSS in .308. I like everything about them except carrying them.
 
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I set another one up by buying a 600 in 222 and re barreled it to 223 and left it in the factory stock. I also have a Ruger 77 which I had re barreled to 6mm Remington after eating the 220Swift barrel up. I also have a heavy barreled Ruger 77 in 223.

If you are looking for long range performance go with heavier caliber than any of the 224 ones. The Swift and the 22-250 may start out fast but they shed that velocity fairly fast and wind plays hobs with them

Although the Creedmoor is the recent golden boy choice in medium length actions, the Remington 6.5 mag is actually a better round, it never became a favorite simply because Remington brought it out in a short barred carbine. It would be a long range monster in a heavy 24" barrel If I was looking at 1000yd shots I would even dump the Creedmoor and go with a 308 or even 338 caliber. Hard to beat heavy high ballistic coefficient bullets way down range.

Remington did some odd stuff. Bringing out the 244 with a slow twist that wouldn't stabilize 100gr bullets gave the nod to the 243 Winchester and Remington renaming the 244 the 6 mm when they put it out again with a faster twist was to late. Even though the 6mm is a slightly better cartridge than the 243, the 6mm is basically dieing while the 243 lives on
 
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I'm partial to Remington Mod 700's, Heavy Barrel Varmint . I have made one shot kills past 500 yards with stock gun. Leupold offers a service to make a custom elevation turret, with it calibrated to your rifle and your load, and the location (elevation, barometric pressure, temperature, velocity, bullet ballistic coefficient, etc}. It 's not hard to get all this, load as you can get a accurate chronograph to get your consistent velocity. With this sighted in at 100 yards you just need to get a range finder reading to your target and dial in the scope.
I started with a used Leupold 6-18, I found i was most often using 12-14 power.
 
I'm in Pa. so we're talking Penn's Woods and small fields. Ya longer shots are possible but not common. Sometimes not safe due to lack of backstop.

I've relied on CZ 527 Americans,and a FS/mannlicher in .223/5,56 these come with 'single set triggers"

Ruger 77 International in .243 with light 80 gr [?] bullets for varmints.

Leupold scopes.
 
In the budget mentioned above a rifle not mentioned but sure would fit the bill is the Bergara B-14 HMR. They have good reputation for accuracy and durability.

Also, the Howa 1500s (same rifle as the Weatherby Vanguard) tend to be good shooters. The Tikka rifles also are a good choice.

As a photographer I'm a bit of an optic snob. If I'm going to work at distance I want a scope that is bright but also really resolves images well.

I would look long and hard at the scopes Zeiss, Meopta, Swarovski and Nightforce on the higher end. Then Leupold as the next small step down. Meopta scopes are the best bang for the buck but they are hard to find.

I'm not a huge Vortex scope fan. Their stuff is okay but only okay. overall when it comes to scopes if you stick the European brands you won't go far wrong.
 
$1500. Now we have a baseline from which to work.

Snipers Hide, the forum. Go to the for sale section. Those guys are always chasing the next greatest thing; and they’re willing to throw the baby out with the bath water in the process. Some of those PRC guys spend money like it’s nothing.

I think there’s a Savage based 22-250 on there now for $1250. Prices are always negotiable.

If I were to start from scratch, I’d do a Remington 700 based short action. Krieger barrel with enough twist for a heavy for caliber projectile. Have a riflesmith spin up the barrel for you. From there you can do everything. The 700 action is the Chevy Small Block of the rifle world. Everyone makes stuff for it.
 
When you start shopping for a scope, I would highly recommend taking a look at a new-ish company name Tract Optics. I have several of their scopes and they amazing for the price point.

Another advantage of Savage rifles is that they can be built into anything you want with very little effort...much like an AR-15. The one on the right started out as a plain model 14 in .243 and ended up with a Criterion .308 barrel, and MDT chassis, and an AICS detachable magazine conversion in less than an hour. The stainless model 12 .223 is on the left.
 

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Also not mentioned is that the rifle is only part of the equation. Yes, there is the scope. But, even the a great rifle with a great scope will not be great at long range without good ammo that matches what the rifle likes. My Ruger 77 with a 1 in 8 twist premium grade barrel, Canjar set trigger and 18 power scope is extremely accurate with MOST 90-100gr boattails. but if you stick in 75 gr or less bullets it might not even hit the paper and even key hole. Most of those light bullets simply can't handle that twist at their higher velocities and some of them even key hole badly.
 
Lotta good points above. I've got the training, machinery and tools to build a rifle and I did build a .223 on a 700 action. Still cost me more than buying one already made by a major manufacturer. Even before I replaced the stock.

Now then, you don't mention what "varmints" you want to shoot but mention .243 & .270. Some more specifics would help. This is also going to affect what scope you need/want. Want and need aren't necessarily the same.

About glass: avoid adjustable objectives, if the objective is bumped or pressured, it can change the point of impact. Leupold has proved that a fixed focus objective has less than 1/2 in parallax effect at 500 yards. If you just gotta have an adjustable, go for one with a side turret adjustment. BTW, you use this by taking it to the max and dialing back until you get what you want.

Buy name brand optics of good quality from a company that supports their customers and stands behind their products. Better to cry once when you stroke the check than cry multiple times after product failures. Bear Basin has very good prices on optics. There might be other sources.
 
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Honestly I wouldn't build a long range varmint rifle myself. It's still cheaper to buy one already built, or new than to spend what a very accurate varmint rifle will cost to build.
I've had my current varmint rifle for about 17 years and back when I bought it I found them on sale for $800 new and I snatched it up quickly. Mine is a Remington 700VSF with HS Precision stock that was standard back then. It's chambered in my favorite varmint cartridge the .22-250, and shoots under 1MOA easily.

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Also not mentioned is that the rifle is only part of the equation. Yes, there is the scope. But, even the a great rifle with a great scope will not be great at long range without good ammo that matches what the rifle likes. My Ruger 77 with a 1 in 8 twist premium grade barrel, Canjar set trigger and 18 power scope is extremely accurate with MOST 90-100gr boattails. but if you stick in 75 gr or less bullets it might not even hit the paper and even key hole. Most of those light bullets simply can't handle that twist at their higher velocities and some of them even key hole badly.

I've been down the "what ammo does my rifle like" rabbit hole. I was trying to zero the scope on a Howa 1500 using 7.62x51 surplus and it shot patterns. Winchester 150 gr SP shot much smaller groups. The kicker is that the same NATO surplus groups very well from a Chilean 1912 in 7.62. Twist rate, rifling depth, land-to-groove ratio can all have drastic effects on accuracy if they mismatch what the bullet jacket wants.
 
I wouldn’t build one, plenty of adequate rigs out there that outshoot me sitting in a gun rack. If I was going to spend money on a quality varmint rig I’d opt for a Savage 12 LRPV in either .223 or .22-250 with a quality optic
 
If your going 300-500 yards consider this

A 22-250 55gr starting out at 3650 is down to 2500 at 300 with a 5" drop from 200 yd zero and 1850 at 500 and drops 34" from a 200yd zero

A 6mm Remington starts an 87 gr bullet at 3400fps but it is 2460 at 300yds with 6.5" drop from 200yd zero and 1950 at 500 yds and drops 36"

The 22-2500 is a slight drop winner till 500yds then the 6mm will walk away from the 22-250

BUT

Lets talk wind drift. With a 10mph breeze at 300 yds the 22-250 drifts 10.5" and the 6mm drifts 6''. At 500 yds the 22-250 will drift 33" and the 6mm 19". Even thought the 22-250 has less flight time the 6mm's better ballistic coefficient wins in wind drift. The 6.5 Creedmoor is slower than either, but because it has the best ballistic coefficient of the 3 it drifts 5.5" at 300 and 16" at 500

I have had the pleasure of shooting prairie dogs on dead calm days and known the frustration of days when there was some wind. Even with a steady wind changing your shot angle will make what should be a hit into a miss. The smaller the caliber the greater the effect
 
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