I believe this is a real value (S&W Sigma)

Thanks Erich,

So much for your validation that I made the right choice in a first gun. This is my home defense gun and to my pleasant surprise, my wife even likes it. (at 7 yards, 1st time she ever picked up a gun- all center mass within 5 inches- which is good enough for me for home defense scenario) Now Im gonna get her smaller caliber (9mm Sigma VE) I just cant go wrong. Again much thanks Erich and I hope I can come to ya for some advice in the future.
 
I've never noticed the trigger being flimsy
on mine. Being plastic, it *looks* like it should
be flimsy, but it actually has no flex that I can
see or feel. BTW, it's a two part trigger.
Anyway, I wouldn't worry about it.
I've heard lots complain about the pull, but
I haven't seen a single claim of a broke trigger
yet. And even if it did, S&W will fix it.
BTW, I just whipped out my .40 and dry fired it
just to test... Nope.. The trigger does not flex. At all..
It's pretty hard and wide..
Myself, I wouldn't worry about it.
MK
 
Thanks, ricdoc66 - nice of you to say so.
icon_smile.gif
Please feel free to email anytime you want to talk. I'm usually either here or over at the ProGuns Forums.

22lover, I have to admit I'm somewhat perplexed by that comment (I saw it, too). I suppose it was just a subjective impression that someone had, because - like MK - I've never heard of anyone breaking a plastic trigger (on a Sigma, Glock, XD or anything else).
 
That was one of the things I read too was about the trigger and how it was split. The gun shop told me that it was somewhat of a safety feature. (equal pressure had to be placed on the trigger in order for it to fire) Ive tried dry firing with my finger on the very lower portion and it fired. So im perplexed to it. To be honest, from a guy who is a rookiew when it comes to guns (sad to say, but I still dont know the real difference between DA and SA- but im sure I will learn) I guess what it comes down to, no matter what safety mechanism, SW- split trigger or Glock trigger within the trigger, when you put your finger on that trigger, you better be ready to pull it! Every is great on this website! Im so glad its here. Im gonna learn lots! BTW- on my way after work to get the 9mm Sigma for the wife. Wish they had it in .380 but oh well, she will most likely be able to handle the 9mm lugar.
 
Originally posted by ricdoc66:
That was one of the things I read too was about the trigger and how it was split. The gun shop told me that it was somewhat of a safety feature. (equal pressure had to be placed on the trigger in order for it to fire) Ive tried dry firing with my finger on the very lower portion and it fired. So im perplexed to it. To be honest, from a guy who is a rookiew when it comes to guns (sad to say, but I still dont know the real difference between DA and SA- but im sure I will learn) I guess what it comes down to, no matter what safety mechanism, SW- split trigger or Glock trigger within the trigger, when you put your finger on that trigger, you better be ready to pull it! Every is great on this website! Im so glad its here. Im gonna learn lots! BTW- on my way after work to get the 9mm Sigma for the wife. Wish they had it in .380 but oh well, she will most likely be able to handle the 9mm lugar.

I have also heard that the trigger config is some type of safety measeure. It will fire by either pulling on the lower arm of the trigger or evenly in the middle. It will not fire though if you pull on the top half of the trigger. There is a arm that you can see if you look behind the trigger that prevents it from firing when pulling on the top half.
 
Yep, the lower part has to be pulled in before
the upper can travel very far. If you look behind the upper trigger you will see a little
tab that sticks out.
That tab is part of the lower trigger.
If you try to pull only the upper, the little
tab hits the frame of the pistol, and it can't
travel far enough to fire.
When the lower is pulled in, that little tab
ducks in up inside the upper trigger, and the
whole thing can do the full travel.
Myself, I'm not sure if I really see the point,
but that's how they do it. The reason I wonder
is if the trigger is pulled by some accidental
reason, it seems to me, the chances of the snag
being on the lower part are just as high as the
upper.. :/
So anyway, yep it will fire just pulling the
lower part, and the split between the upper and
lower do not matter. If the lower is pulled,
and enough strength is used to pull it all the
way, it will fire. There can be 0 strength on
the upper, 1/4 , or 1/2 , doesn't matter...
If the lower is pulled far enough, kabang..
icon_smile.gif
 
I have the 40ve with the m4 attached. Now if I could just find a holster for it. Any suggestions would be helpfull.

Allan
 
My understanding of split trigger (trigger safety) is that it minimizes accidental firing if the gun is dropped when cocked. The idea is that in order to release the firing pin, the sear has to be rotated sufficiently, the trigger safety prevents sufficient rotation unless the trigger is pulled back and therefore less likely to fire if dropped/shocked.

Ricdoc's comment about SA/DA, the Sigma is often described as a DA or DAO (DAO in 2006 S&W brochure), but I would describe it more like SA (you have to manually cock it after a dry fire) except the trigger pull is more like a DA. How would others describe the action?
 
It's a one-and-a-half action.

On an ordinary double-action, the trigger (1) lifts and then (2) drops the hammer/striker. On a single-action, the trigger merely (1) drops it.

A Glock-type "Safe Action" (of which the Sigma and Kahrs are other examples), partially lifts and drops a partially pre-cocked striker.
 
Originally posted by bullitt1668:
I don't know if this question has been answered but, how can I tell if I have a 1st gen or a 2nd gen sigma?

The 1st generation is the SW9F/SW40F. 4.5 inch barrel, no accessory rail. The 2nd generation is the SW40C/SW40V/SW9C/SW40C/SW357V. 4 inch barrel, no accessory rail. Some SW40Vs and SW9Vs have a grey polymer frame. The third and current generation is the SW9E/SW40E/SW9VE/SW40VE/SW9P/SW40P/SW9G/SW40G/SW9GVE/SW40GVE. They have 4 inch barrels and accessory rails.
 
I picked up a 40ve about a month ago and have put about 200 rounds thru it already. I love this pistol, It feels better then my Gov issued Berretta did. I got mine for $280 with the four mags. I purchased the allied forces model (all black).

moreauchristmas07027.jpg
 
Mr. roccoracer,
First of all WELCOME to the Forum!! Stick around. Lots of smart folks here...I learn something every day.

VERY nice gun...I like the looks of your gun. I can see why you bought it.

Enjoy.

Bob
 
How rare are the grey framed sigmas? One of my "students" has one. He didn't realize that there was anything different about it.
Just picked up my 40ve yesterday. It still seems like a magic trick to get 15 round mags in a grip that feels as thin as the one my 8 round single stack 4053 with hogue rubber grips had.
All it needs is the trigger from my XD9.
 
Originally posted by jeepguy:
How rare are the grey framed sigmas? One of my "students" has one. He didn't realize that there was anything different about it.
Just picked up my 40ve yesterday. It still seems like a magic trick to get 15 round mags in a grip that feels as thin as the one my 8 round single stack 4053 with hogue rubber grips had.
All it needs is the trigger from my XD9.

I've only ever seen a few SW9Vs and SW40Vs with the grey frame. I don't know if the SW357V was available in grey.
 
Originally posted by MattB:
Originally posted by bullitt1668:
I don't know if this question has been answered but, how can I tell if I have a 1st gen or a 2nd gen sigma?

The 1st generation is the SW9F/SW40F. 4.5 inch barrel, no accessory rail. The 2nd generation is the SW40C/SW40V/SW9C/SW40C/SW357V. 4 inch barrel, no accessory rail. Some SW40Vs and SW9Vs have a grey polymer frame. The third and current generation is the SW9E/SW40E/SW9VE/SW40VE/SW9P/SW40P/SW9G/SW40G/SW9GVE/SW40GVE. They have 4 inch barrels and accessory rails.

Thanks for the info! Here is pic of mine with a hogue grip!

CIMG0026.jpg
 
I need the striker for Sigma SW40V the striker is broken, Where I can buy this parts???
 
RE: Sigma reliability - I just completed my CHL class over the weekend and the instructor's wife had a Sigma 9mm as one of her personal weapons, and she also used it as a loaner gun. The instructor said that he deliberately failed to clean and oil the weapon just to see what would happen. After more than 3000 rounds with multiple students, he indicated that there were no FTFs or FTEs. In fact, several students tried to buy the piece from him. No sale - wonder why?

Regards,

Dave
 
Originally posted by enrique:
I need the striker for Sigma SW40V the striker is broken, Where I can buy this parts???

Seems like you can't get that part judging
from other posts.
You'll probably want to send it into S&W.
 
I was fortunate enough to purchase a complete set of SW9VE parts (but for the frame) from a chopped police-seized gun for under $55 - now I've got all sorts of back-up parts should I need them.

PLW45 was kind enough to remind me of this thread, so I just wanted to update it with some new pix. I recently put a xenon-bulbed cheapie on my Swock (an expensive Surefire would have embarrassed the gun), and I find it to work quite well.

Swockwithlight30sep80010001yyy.jpg


Swockwithlight30sep80020001yyy.jpg


Swockwithlight30sep80030001yyy.jpg


Swockwithlight30sep80040001yyy.jpg


Obviously, we're not talking about a holster gun here, but this thing is great for around the house. I was talking to a cop friend last night about these tactical lights: he's usually pretty darned traditional, but he told me how helpful he's found these to be in house-clearing exercises - said there are tons of uses for a free hand in such events. Now he has rails on every duty gun he carries, and he uses them.
 
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