Idea thread - what would you do with it?

[mikepriwer]

With five (5) bulges in the barrel, I'd drive out the barrel pin, and remove the barrel. I don't think it's worth salvaging, as it is. Several good ideas have been suggested, and there appears to be some donor parts available.

The frame has the keyway slot for the new (circa 1908 - 1910) trigger rebound slide. After removing and saving the studs, I've given early round butt frames to grip makers. One from this time period would be helpful to them.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[MelvinWalker]

With five (5) bulges in the barrel, I'd drive out the barrel pin, and remove the barrel. I don't think it's worth salvaging, as it is. Several good ideas have been suggested, and there appears to be some donor parts available.

The frame has the keyway slot for the new (circa 1908 - 1910) trigger rebound slide. After removing and saving the studs, I've given early round butt frames to grip makers. One from this time period would be helpful to them.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Regards, Mike Priwer

What models and years would work for him to come up with a .38 Special solution? I might have some donations for him to help him give this poor gun summertime CPR.

 

[mikepriwer]

The frame has a 32-20 serial number, so 38 special might not be the best choice. In the 38 special world, that serial number would correspond to a 1902 1st change; as a 32-20, its a 1905 1st change. Changing the caliber to 38 will cause a loss of compatibility with Neal & Jinks definitions.

Generally, with some caveats, almost anything from 1908 up to WW2 will work.

Using a very early trigger rebound slide with a key on its backside will probably require a hammer of the same time period. A later slide without the key might make it easier to find functional hammers and triggers.

The current barrel, if salvaged, has relief cuts for the large mushroom extractor rod nob. Whatever barrel is to be used would want to have the proper relief cuts for whatever extractor rod is used.

Theses are only some of the issues that may come up. Good gunsmithing skills can deal with these situations.

Regards, Mike Priwer

 

[MelvinWalker]

Theses are only some of the issues that may come up. Good gunsmithing skills can deal with these situations.

Regards, Mike Priwer

I looked and I don't have any parts kits that old at all. Plenty of K frame kits from the 1960's newer etc.

 

[mikepriwer]

The parts for these older guns never came in kits! Places like Numrich, and others, sell older parts, but these are salvaged from older guns. There are companies that buy clunker old guns, salvage the parts that are useable, and sell them on ebay, etc.

 

[MelvinWalker]

The parts for these older guns never came in kits! Places like Numrich, and others, sell older parts, but these are salvaged from older guns. There are companies that buy clunker old guns, salvage the parts that are useable, and sell them on ebay, etc.

That's what I have, from destroyed guns. Everything but the frame.. Most of mine came from destroyed guns from buybacks. Some really nice guns have been destroyed over the years with these silly notions. Ebay is full of them and so is Gunbroker. Back when prices were better, you could buy 686 kits with target grips. I even bought an engraved Model 60 kit.

I posted about it a few months ago...See pic.

 

[Shotguncoach]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed and dug through their various parts bins. I appreciate it.

I fully understand that what I'm intending to do will result in a frankengun that has no value other than as a shooter (and to my kids, something that Dad built). For me, this is an exercise in education and entertainment. Any round butt K-frame will do....this just happened to be the one that popped up. If someone feels strongly that this frame shouldn't be used for a frankengun, just make me an offer that I can't refuse.

The serial number is 34642, which I believe makes it a Model of 1905, 2nd Change (SCSW 4th ed, pg150-151). Here are the barrel markings and a shot of the barrel with a straightedge alongside it showing the bulges.

These are the parts kits that I have available, and as I said before, I don't mind having a mixmaster. Prior to trying to fit anything, my thought is to use the internal frame parts from the first kit and the barrel/cylinder/yoke from the second. If I've done my research correctly, I think I also have the option of just using the second kit and ending up with a transitional hammer. There is no provision for a hammer block in the original sideplate, so if I go that route the hammer block pin on the rebound slide would have to come off. I'm also fully aware that no matter what I do it will end up as a "carry with an empty chamber under the hammer" gun unless there is a miracle and the hammer block sideplate happens to fit.

 

[BC38]

...This project reminds me of the Johnny Cash song about building a Cadillac from parts carried out in his lunchbox!

I got it one piece at a time, and it didn't cost me a dime...
You'll know it's me when I come to your town...!
Great old song!

 

[jeffrefrig]

Rebuild it? I really look up to people with much more talent than I.
I AM in the camp of slicing that barrel as an education/display wall mount. How do they know there are six bullets stuck in there? I would seriously think anyone who would keep firing 6 times with nothing coming out the other end of the gun wouldn't have the mental ability to count all the way to six.