If You Were Going to Buy Your Very 1st J-Frame What Would You Pick?

There is no bad choice in a J frame, all are excellent revolvers. Back in 1967 I talked my Dad into this Model 37...



But these days, hands down I would recommend a 640-1, without a doubt one of the finest pistols S&W ever cobbled up!

 
I've owned a few. My very first J frame was a model 34 in nickel with 3" barrel. My favorite shooter is my 60-10 (love those 3" barrels). My EDC for many, many years was a 642. The 642 is hard to beat for EDC, but my model 63 is perfect for introduction to handgun shooting for ladies and youngsters.
 
I started with a 642. Wanted it for pocket carry. It was too heavy for that purpose. It's now a bathroom closet stash gun with CT 305 grips.

Is that a gun problem or a wardrobe problem? Maybe need a holster and a different kind of shirt?

I see the problem though. I don't pocket carry, but my first J-frame was the lightweight Wyatt Deep Cover 637. I like it a lot and carry it in my go bag, that I take to the car on every road outing. I then place it in the elastic strap along the transmission tunnel by my leg, so I can reach it instead of my carry gun. It is kept in its soft pocket liner holster so it will draw without any snag. It's not out of sight, but you'd have to look close against the black carpeting and console in good light to tell what it is.

The gun is also my pajama gun with its grip clip for waist band carry. The concept works for me.
 
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I bought a 340 PD, not because it is a 357, but because I wanted the lightest used snub available then. I have not bothered to shoot 357 out of it, but I will soon. Its' plenty snappy with 38 target loads. While the short grip is more concealable, in my opinion it requires much more practice to shoot proficiently. I have not tried a 642/442 in the pocket, so I can't say what the additional 3 or so ounces would feel like. I appreciate the lack of a hammer (rendering your jacket pocket a deadly weapon), the many grip options (as in laser), sight options (as in Big Dog), and holster options.
 
We have several dating from the 70's but I carry a 442 no lock mostly. My wife has a new lady smith 642 she's fond of. If the weather is cold I'm in a jacket I have a new model 60 2 inch 357 sa/da. My favorite. I like the longer grips and more weight. Not much to not like about j frames.
 
I recently was in the same situation as you, and I ended up with a M&P340, and must say I am very happy with it! I usually carried a glock 19 and still do but find I grab the 340 more and more. It's very light and great to carry! I added crimson trace grips, which I'm not sure I needed but like the idea and the comfort. Hind sight, I'd still keep the mp340 but I sure do like the 640 pro series and would make shooting 357's more enjoyable
 
I just did, a new 638-3

I just did (buy my first J Frame) and I bought a 638-3.

Airweight and the SA/DA option were my reasons. Since I've started to learn the gun a bit I'm pleased with it. I've realized that the hump back profile makes it look less like a typical gun when I pocket carry. That's important to me, don't want to freak out any "condition white" citizens.

This is actually my first sidearm. I shot only long guns before.

I'm glad that I bought a Smith & Wesson. They build good revolvers.
 
I've a flatlatch airweight that was Fitzed. I Rebarreled and rehammered it, cannot fix the trigger guard. Bought it from a friend who was dying of cancer and paid too much for it but for a good cause. If I was to purchase a J frame otherwise a blue humpback may quench my thirst.
 
With the general info given. I'd vote 638. I does everything a snubbie could do pretty darn well without being specialized. Darn pretty too!

 
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I would pick exactly what I bought for my first J-frame, an all steel Model 36.


M36-7_zpszlbqk3vm.jpg
 
I own and carry an early (1990) 640 in .38 Special, and don't really see a lot of advantage to a J-frame .357 Magnum. I also don't see the desirability of single-action capability in a defensive gun designed for up-close business encounters.

For self-defense carry I'd suggest the 640, but for your first ever J a 60 might be good for acclimating yourself to shooting a revolver that size.
 
I own and carry an early (1990) 640 in .38 Special, and don't really see a lot of advantage to a J-frame .357 Magnum. < snip >

I've switched from carrying a 638 to a 640-1. I don't carry Magnums in it, but the extra 1/4" of ejector rod throw almost fully extracts a 38 case. It may be a small benefit, but it's one I'm willing to put up with a bit of extra length and weight in the gun to get.
 
J-Frame

IMHO this is J-Frame light weight perfection. Of my 3 Js ( also a 642 and 637) this is my favorite; 360J scandium:)



 
If I could only have one j-frame or was buying my first it would be the 638. I love that little revolver. Do listen to any concern about the hammer and debris. Just blow it out ever now and then. In my experience it goes bang every time, and you have a SA option if ever needed.

Second option would be a model 60 since it can fire 357 and has more heft. That, for me, is a distant second since j frames are carry guns first and foremost.
 
Super useful thread, as I'm looking into my first J-frame.

I think I'm close to going with the 442, but am curious as to thoughts about whether the performance center model is worthwhile. Looks like I can grab one for $400, so for the extra $50 bucks or so it seems to make sense to me but wanted to know what others had to say.

Also a dumb question, but I think it comes without the lock in that model, but if not would you consider that a deal breaker and just get the standard 442 or 642 without the lock?
 
Super useful thread, as I'm looking into my first J-frame.

I think I'm close to going with the 442, but am curious as to thoughts about whether the performance center model is worthwhile. Looks like I can grab one for $400, so for the extra $50 bucks or so it seems to make sense to me but wanted to know what others had to say.

Also a dumb question, but I think it comes without the lock in that model, but if not would you consider that a deal breaker and just get the standard 442 or 642 without the lock?

My take on it? It depends. What's your budget like?

If that 50 bucks puts you to your limit, I would not spend it. $50 can get you a nice holster or some ammo.

If it won't break the bank, I say spring extra $50 for no lock and the moon clips. Why? I prefer the looks of a no lock. But my 649 has a lock. I don't carry extra rounds in a moon clip, but I like the positive extraction of all my rounds at once. Especially on qualification day when I have to do empty gun reload. Keeps my brass together for collection. Wouldn't hurt in that one in a million chance you'd have to reload in a defensive situation.

Overall, I think you'd be happy with a 442. If you have the chance though, shoot one first and make sure you're ok with the airweight. A buddy wanted to but a Ruger LCR 9mm until he shot mine. 2 rounds and he was done. Everyone is different, so don't always listen to the internet guys who say "it's nothing. Rather pleasant actually". Check for yourself so you know for sure.
 
Super useful thread, as I'm looking into my first J-frame.

I think I'm close to going with the 442, but am curious as to thoughts about whether the performance center model is worthwhile. Looks like I can grab one for $400, so for the extra $50 bucks or so it seems to make sense to me but wanted to know what others had to say.

Also a dumb question, but I think it comes without the lock in that model, but if not would you consider that a deal breaker and just get the standard 442 or 642 without the lock?

With regards to the "Performance Center" version, save your money. Spend it on ammo for practice, or a holster. After shooting a couple hundred rounds, you probably couldn't tell the difference. If the trigger pull is still too heavy for you, you could drop in a slightly lighter hammer spring.

Don't fret about the lock, they key hole is a good place to put a couple drops of light oil now and then!
 
Not so much a money issue at all as to the $50. I do like the idea of a stainless steel cylinder over the long term for the few extra bucks, at that point any trigger job improvement feels like a throw in, unless someone had any experience where it was more or less exactly the same as factory.

Got plenty of 38 in my cabinet for one of my lever actions already anyway :)
 
Not so much a money issue at all as to the $50. I do like the idea of a stainless steel cylinder over the long term for the few extra bucks, at that point any trigger job improvement feels like a throw in, unless someone had any experience where it was more or less exactly the same as factory.

Got plenty of 38 in my cabinet for one of my lever actions already anyway :)

The regular black 442 has a "blackened" stainless steel cylinder.
 
An Airweight 442 or 642 are the most economical when it comes to SD. I prefer steel frames myself. My personal pocket carry is an older Mod. 60 snubby, cuz it manages recoil well with .38 Special. For sheer fun, I love plinking and target shooting with a pre-lock .22 LR, Mod. 63 with a 4-inch barrel. Not sure what level of experience you have with revolvers, but the Js have a notorious heavy double action trigger, but a sweet single action. If you haven't shot snubbies, you might prefer longer barrels with a longer sight radius. If you haven't done so, I might suggest that you borrow a friends, or rent some J frames at a gun range to get the feel for what you prefer. Good luck!
 
The regular black 442 has a "blackened" stainless steel cylinder.

My understanding was that the regular 442 was carbon steel, which can rust, whereas the stainless steel of the 442 PC, will not.

It's certainly splitting hairs, but I believe they are different materials from standard to PC as opposed to just some coloring.
 
My understanding was that the regular 442 was carbon steel, which can rust, whereas the stainless steel of the 442 PC, will not.

It's certainly splitting hairs, but I believe they are different materials from standard to PC as opposed to just some coloring.




Actually stainless can rust but it is WAY more resistant to rusting than regular stee.
 
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