I’m having bad luck! New smith problem

[Josepi]

I hate like all heck coming here to complain.
So I bought a new used 60-7 a few months ago. This gun was unfired. It was having reset issues. Smith told me to send it back and fixed the old girl free of charge. I was so excited with the customer service I figured I'm gonna give the new revolvers a chance. Saturday I picked up a 642-1 performance center and the trigger is super nice!
Today I picked up a 340 m&p and to my disappointment, the trigger won't reset. Plus I'm not sure if normal or not but 1 of the 3 screws on the side sets way out where the other 2 are flush.
Pretty disappointed brand new smith has to go back

 

[pantannojack]

Looks like they got the wrong screw up front where it retains the yoke tube.

I am of the attitude that when considering a new purchase, I insist on examining the item for sale; Not a selected display one, but the actual one for sale. Way back in Scottsdale at a self promoted hero reloading supply outlet I wanted a case mouth debur tool. The clerk acted as if i put him to ridiculous inconvenience if he must take another out of a box and put it in the display case once I purchased to one visible. I quit going there because of the arrogant attitude.

 

[Jeppo]

Looks like they got the wrong screw up front where it retains the yoke tube.

Assuming that's the wrong screw, I have two concerns:

1. Does that screw actually actually do its job.

2. When that screw is replaced with the proper size and length, will the frame's black finish have been damaged by the larger head.

 

[Josepi]

I actually didn't even notice until now that the screw is even different in color. I really am pretty disappointed in the QC.

 

[Camster]

I'd say one good one out of three is pretty good these days. About the same as my experience with new ones. I won't gamble on another new one. The odds are too long.
A catch-22 with the last one. I sent it in for a cosmetic issue. They addressed about 95% of the problem area, and added a new cosmetic issue elsewhere.
Though a brand new unfired gun, I then asked to buy a proper part. I'll install it myself. (not a technical thing at all) I didn't care how much the part was. I wanted a perfect, ...or near perfect, gun.
"Can't do that. Have to send it in".
I'll live with it or doctor it myself, rather than have yet more careless handling rendered.

 

[rct269]

It's at least possible, if not likely, those of you who frequent this section of the forum are not aware of S&W's history. They started in 1857. From that point on for 100 years thereabouts, S&W's philosophy can be summed up thus: We will be successful if we build the best possible product for the price. (This being one of only two philosophies extant among the world's manufacturers---then and now-----and forever!)

The other philosophy goes like this: We will be successful if we build the product for the lowest possible cost.

Along about the mid/later 1950's, it seems S&W begin having second thoughts, and begin to concern themselves with costs----not that they weren't aware of costs right from the get-go; but they were focused on turning out the best possible product for the price---and it was working.

(It should be noted all this is a matter of opinion formed by a lunatic fringe collector since 1957---thereabouts.) That's not to say I didn't have any S&W products produced after that---only that I didn't keep any of them (with four, maybe five exceptions). That translates like this: I have virtually no first hand knowledge of ANY S&W product produced during the last 60+ years---on purpose! I do have knowledge of the fussing and fuming by those who do have such knowledge---and also of bright spots along the way. Damn shame those bright spots didn't last.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Jeppo]

I actually didn't even notice until now that the screw is even different in color. I really am pretty disappointed in the QC.

Let's hope the screw is at least the same thread pitch as a correct one. Otherwise, I'm not sure how it was installed. If, by chance, it is a larger pitch, what would the frame threads now look like?

 

[jcelect]

The "screw"

I believe the screw in question is the "yoke retention screw" and on the newer guns it is a bigger screw and different pitch than the other side plate screws. This screw has a spring loaded pin in the end, to retain the yoke, and will not fit any other hole in the side plate/frame!
jcelect

 

[JAREDSHS]

I believe the screw in question is the "yoke retention screw" and on the newer guns it is a bigger screw and different pitch than the other side plate screws. This screw has a spring loaded pin in the end, to retain the yoke, and will not fit any other hole in the side plate/frame!
jcelect

This is correct,

 

[gnappi]

Nowadays "Quality Inspection by end user" seems to be gaining traction.

 

[DETROIT]

What do you mean by the trigger will not reset? If you pull the trigger dose it stay pulled or dose it return to start the process again? Also there is nothing wrong with the yoke screw. The color is different because the screws and frame are different materials and the finish is applied separately.

 

[Josepi]

What do you mean by the trigger will not reset? If you pull the trigger dose it stay pulled or dose it return to start the process again? Also there is nothing wrong with the yoke screw. The color is different because the screws and frame are different materials and the finish is applied separately.

The trigger will not reset to fire again unless i physically move it forward. There's two different photos showing the reset stuck half way foward.

 

[DETROIT]

Remove the side plate and check for dried up oil, and inspect the springs. Or shoot CLE under the side plate and start working the trigger.

 

[DETROIT]

Remove the side plate and check for dried up oil, and inspect the springs. Or shoot CLE under the side plate and start working the trigger.

This spring is probably gummed up.

 

[Josepi]

It's a brand new revolver. It will be going back to Smith And Wesson to make it right.

 

[rct269]

Remove the side plate and check for dried up oil, and inspect the springs. Or shoot CLE under the side plate and start working the trigger.

It should be noted right up front I have no idea what CLE is----and don't want to know. Shooting anything under the sideplate is how to go about moving crud from one place to another place.

Proper cleaning of the innards of a S&W hand ejector revolver is accomplished by removing the sideplate----then removing the sundry bits and pieces you see inside the sideplate---then making all of them squeaky clean (AND DRY)----and put them back where they belong.

WAY more than adequate lubrication of the same animal goes like this: ONE DROP of oil on each of the hammer stud and the trigger stud. ONE DROP of oil under and behind the rebound slide----PERIOD! Charter Members of the lunatic fringe will put ONE HALF DROP on the cylinder stop stud. Oil serves two functions in there. One is to provide lubrication. The other is to hold on to crud. The more oil you use, the more crud you retain. A S&W hand ejector revolver will stay clean and work just fine with NO lubrication whatsoever. It ain't like anything in there is moving at high speeds!!

Speaking of gun cleaning products sold in spray cans reminds me of fishing tackle. Some, perhaps many folks will tell you fishing tackle is made to catch fish. I will tell you it's made to sell to fishermen. So too are spray cans and their contents made to sell to gun owners who don't know any better.

The best and easiest way to know better is to buy a book---then read it.

Ralph Tremaine