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.... a 4" blued Model 28 that is perfect mechanical with a finish ( or lack thereof) that is well .... awful. For me, that is saying a lot!! :)
My best guess is exposure to the sea air (Caribbean...that is).

What is a fair price? Seller had $330 in it...




Best,
Charles
 
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I have to say that if it was "perfect" mechanically, I would offer him $300 (or the $330, If I had to) and take it, if for no other reason to have it as a shooter (and to see what else I could do with it, not ruling out a re-blue for it).

But that's just me.

Edit: Oh my is right! Not what I expected, but I still might take a chance at the right price.
 
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Charles,

My advice, remember what you are paying for it, is NOT at that price. Last year in Houston at a private sale I picked up one for right around that price. Yours makes mine look like a safe queen. kindest regards, hardcase60

Added: A fair price would be whatever they are going to pay you to take it. Seriously, IMHO I don't think even your smithy could make that thing look good again. Are you seriously considering buying that poor creature?
 
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The exterior is pretty rough. That one might be the exception to the old rule of thumb:
"Any N-Frame S&W in good working order is worth $500"

Of course he is only asking $330, so you might consider it if:
1. Its looks don't bother you and you just want an N-Frame .357 to shoot and tinker with (you can't hurt this one's value much)
2. You need one for duty in a harsh environment (hunting gun, truck gun, ...)
3. You need a reliable bedside gun which you wouldn't mind if - heaven forbid - it went away to a police property room, possibly never to return

Otherwise, I would save my money and buy a nicer one ...
 
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.... a 4" blued Model 28 that is perfect mechanical with a finish ( or lack thereof) that is well .... awful....

My concern would be just how perfect the internal mechanics and parts really are preserved if the outside looks like that. Have you had the sideplate off? After all, a gun is not an air- and moistureproof container where the outside exposure has no bearing on what happens inside.

If it does check out, this would be the perfect gun for a cerakote or other complete refinish project that no upstanding collector would normally consider inflicting on any steel gun with a shred of surface integrity left :) .
 
Unlike most of you cheep-skates (lol) I'd give the guy his asking price. According to the OP he's just asking what he has in it. No reason he should be expected to take a loss. Then I'd have it fine-bead blasted and blued...and shoot the bejabers out of it. (smile)

Dave
 
I'd pay the $330, then have it "sand-blasted" first then "bead -blasted" after the worst pitting was smoothed out. Hot blued and it might not look too bad. I think a cerakoat finish would make the pits stand out worse.
 
As bad as that looks on the outside the inside of the ejector shroud looks like new.
 
I'll Just Say.......

You are buying a M-27 without the formal dress, an "N" frame and a tank, if is actually a great "Internally" revolver with no timing, cylinder or barrel issues, pay him and shoot the stuffins out of it. They ain't made one any better!
 
OK....that settles it! I'm an addict!

If it's still at the shop on Monday ;) , I'm going to work a deal with him unless I come to my senses before then. . A guy I know on another forum told me about it. It is @ his favorite LGS in Maryland.

You guys are such a bunch of..... enablers. :)

Best,
Charles
 
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Buy it. New bbl pin. Check out the internals for issues. (Fix those.)
Shoot it.
Blast it, bead it.
Then maybe Hard Chrome?
That's what I'd do. LOL
 
That's some of the strangest rusting patterns I've seen.
Very serious and complete coverage on the cylinder surface but practically none on the flutes and some other places, but especially the flutes.
I would agree to a thorough internal inspection and if passing that, a bead blast and hard chrome. Have it matt finished if the pitting is still showing.
 
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