It's a Shame.. Rusty S&W 28-2 Highway Patrolman
- Thread starter DeafSmith
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jringo8769
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Well any pics?
How rusty is it?
Any pitting?
You could always remove the rust with workshop hero.....that stuff works great
Sent from my LGL41C using Tapatalk
How rusty is it?
Any pitting?
You could always remove the rust with workshop hero.....that stuff works great
Sent from my LGL41C using Tapatalk
Pics, grips, Sn? I like rusty old guns and I like queens.
If you get to $400, you are in Mod-10 territory. Sounds like a field gun in a holster. What are you going to loose.
If you get to $400, you are in Mod-10 territory. Sounds like a field gun in a holster. What are you going to loose.
For what I envision of your description, I think $400 is some high. I'd agree on $300 shooter. But, it might not be as bad as I think. If it is not pitted, and surface rust could be removed without too much damage to the bluing it would probably be a $400 gun, (some may think $500).
Jack Flash
Member
A few more details would help establish its value. The two most obvious --
1. Original Stocks or at least S&W Stocks (not Pachs or the like)?
2. Barrel Length? Four inch should raise the price a little ...
I would be tempted to pay $400 unless it really looks horrible. I already have one or two of those!
oysterer
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rusty
my weekly shooter was unfired but had red rust spots all over it. Soaked in Kroil, went at it with 0000 steel wool and Flitz. Here you go. It's my favorite gun and I love it. I made it my own. It is a tad more glossy and the blue thinner than before but I do not care. The key seemed to be letting time work and the soaking take care of it. The final step was leaving RIG grease sit on it for weeks while the dark pitting spots healed themselves. The gun is even getting better over time. It was a fun project, I had no idea how it was going to work out but it ended up on top. If you can get it cheap, run with it.
my weekly shooter was unfired but had red rust spots all over it. Soaked in Kroil, went at it with 0000 steel wool and Flitz. Here you go. It's my favorite gun and I love it. I made it my own. It is a tad more glossy and the blue thinner than before but I do not care. The key seemed to be letting time work and the soaking take care of it. The final step was leaving RIG grease sit on it for weeks while the dark pitting spots healed themselves. The gun is even getting better over time. It was a fun project, I had no idea how it was going to work out but it ended up on top. If you can get it cheap, run with it.
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OLDSTER
Member
I agree. Using this method ( except I use 0000 bronze wool) you can make a "silk purse out of a sows ear". My favorite K frame shooter is this 15-4 that was peppered with rust spots. I bought it right and, as you can see, it turned out great. So if you really want a nice shooter, and you can get it for a good price, do it.
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COOL!
I never heard about using RIG Grease on dark rust spots. Could you explain the process better?
oysterer
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I agree. Using this method ( except I use 0000 bronze wool) you can make a "silk purse out of a sows ear". My favorite K frame shooter is this 15-4 that was peppered with rust spots. I bought it right and, as you can see, it turned out great. So if you really want a nice shooter, and you can get it for a good price, do it.
I seems such rescue project guns mean more to the owners than buying NIB from the store. I can tell you mine is among the last I ever sell.
oysterer
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self healing
RIG is a white jar/yellow label and says: Rust Inhibiton Grease. I use that on some pivot points and rotting parts such as ejectors, shotgun pivots etc.
I thought I can't hurt the gun and may protect it from those rust pits developing again.
The rust pits I had removed with wool, flitz etc leaving a smooth surface but rather dark spots where the pits were (worst on the cylinder, you still can see such a dark spot on image 1). To my surprise over time they became less visible and started disappearing.
Had I know this before I may have have done easier on the Flitz which I found the harshest on the original blue. More so than 0000 steel wool. Next time I do only Kroil, brass wool and RIG grease. Those projects are the most fun especially when you paid little for the treasure you found.
RIG is a white jar/yellow label and says: Rust Inhibiton Grease. I use that on some pivot points and rotting parts such as ejectors, shotgun pivots etc.
I thought I can't hurt the gun and may protect it from those rust pits developing again.
The rust pits I had removed with wool, flitz etc leaving a smooth surface but rather dark spots where the pits were (worst on the cylinder, you still can see such a dark spot on image 1). To my surprise over time they became less visible and started disappearing.
Had I know this before I may have have done easier on the Flitz which I found the harshest on the original blue. More so than 0000 steel wool. Next time I do only Kroil, brass wool and RIG grease. Those projects are the most fun especially when you paid little for the treasure you found.
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I once bought a Model 15-3 that I thought had been Parkarized or had some other type of flat finish applied to it. It was a sort of greenish/brown color. I'd had it for some time and taken it to the range a couple of times before I pulled the stocks and noticed the metal under them wasn't the same color.
A little work with Flitz in an out of the way spot revealed that what I thought was finish, was simply very fine rust. Under that rust was a blue finish about like the one on OLDSTER's gun. A hour or so of work with the Flitz and a soft rag and it looked like a different gun.
A little work with Flitz in an out of the way spot revealed that what I thought was finish, was simply very fine rust. Under that rust was a blue finish about like the one on OLDSTER's gun. A hour or so of work with the Flitz and a soft rag and it looked like a different gun.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Three s&w revolvers from the same online dealer, he called it rust, it was a reddish orange but I got lucky it was dried gun oil. The guns are 99.99% condition. I lucked out.
VThillman
Member
I am jealous. Possibly insanely, but still.
oysterer
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serial
serial does not make sense. Should be a N525...
Very nice find, love the smooth targets!. Keep in mind, Kroil soak first, go easy and very slow, soak, rub with bronze or copper wool, soak again, rub again. Then you get a nice 4 inches. One of the coolest SW in my book.
What did you end up paying?
serial does not make sense. Should be a N525...
Very nice find, love the smooth targets!. Keep in mind, Kroil soak first, go easy and very slow, soak, rub with bronze or copper wool, soak again, rub again. Then you get a nice 4 inches. One of the coolest SW in my book.
What did you end up paying?
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oysterer
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turn line looks decent, look into the barrel and see if there is a bit of rust in there which I doubt there will be. I do not see the backplate but if that and the cylinder play/endshake checks out, offer 325 or let me have it for that. I have a mint 200xxx in 4'' that shoots like a laser, no less accurate than any of my 6''. I could use another shooter grade 4'' or better say must have...
Jack Flash
Member
The smooth Football Targets might be worth upwards of $100 by themselves if they clean up ok. I really doubt they are original to the gun so if you were to sell them to recoup a little on the purchase price, no real crime there.
The four inch barrel enhances the value a little. If you can get it for $350, that would be a fine deal. I would probably go ahead and pay the $450 if he refuses to come down, if I really wanted a 4" N-Frame shooter.
The four inch barrel enhances the value a little. If you can get it for $350, that would be a fine deal. I would probably go ahead and pay the $450 if he refuses to come down, if I really wanted a 4" N-Frame shooter.
