Just wanting to know what I have. Please help!

Snoopy96

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So I picked a gun up on trade a couple weeks back and the man told me it was one thing, Now, I'm believing otherwise. It's a stainless S&W K frame, serial number K208689, 4 inch barrel, .38 special, adjustable post war sights, 5 screws(including trigger gaurd screw), does have the strain screw, on the yolk I just have the numbers 367 and a w. Will post pictures. Can anybody tell me what this is? Trying to figure out the model number and the year manufactured. Thank you in advance.
 

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See I thought nickel too, but then was told otherwise on that too. I don't know what it is. Honestly, I'm clueless on this gun.
 
Y'all have been very helpful, I was thinking previously it was a model 67 due to the 67 of the 367 on the yolk, but now understand that that is completely unrelated. Arjay, does yours have these grips or the smaller ones? I'm trying to figure out if these came on this gun. I'm glad you say it's a great shooter, I was entirely unsure, haven't even got to shoot it yet. And Shark Bait, that makes a lot of sense, you solved my other problem. I had been trying to figure out why it was barley visible. But the nickel, chrome, whatever it is, is peeling off so I'm getting it durakoted before too long.
 
As others have stated its a Combat Masterpiece (AKA Pre Model 15)
Probably shipped around 1955 but has been poorly refinished in nickel judging by the sideplate fit etc. ,
the grips are from the 70's and also in poor shape.

all of the original finish is gone so if it shoots good relegates it to shooter,
 
As others have stated its a Combat Masterpiece (AKA Pre Model 15)
Probably shipped around 1955 but has been poorly refinished in nickel judging by the sideplate fit etc. ,
the grips are from the 70's and also in poor shape.

all of the original finish is gone so if it shoots good relegates it to shooter,

You're damn sure right about it all being in poor shape. The cylinder is the worst part, all that nickel is just peeling off. I didn't know the grips were really that bad until I saw another set earlier today, good god, these are terrible. I'm ordering some new Hogue 'fancy grips' and getting the gun durakoted in pewter, I'll be sure to post some pictures of the finished product. It can't look much worse than it does now. Any idea of current value? And I appreciate the given date, but if I may ask, how can you tell that?
 
S&W did not nickel plate the hammer and trigger so when one is found with those nickeled its a safe bet it was refinished by an amateur,
Also when the sideplate is buffed too aggressively it leaves a large gap between them as in the pics.

Not sure painting the gun will make it better and refinishing it will not fix the issues caused by the last refinish or increase its value so may be best to leave it alone and shoot it.
 
S&W did not nickel plate the hammer and trigger so when one is found with those nickeled its a safe bet it was refinished by an amateur,
Also when the sideplate is buffed too aggressively it leaves a large gap between them as in the pics.

Not sure painting the gun will make it better and refinishing it will not fix the issues caused by the last refinish or increase its value so may be best to leave it alone and shoot it.

Thanks for the info, the cop I got it from said it was a hell of a shooter so let's hope he's right so there will be at least one good thing about this gun, aside from its make.
 
If it's in good mechanical shape, I'd consider having it hard-chromed.
 
If it's peeling, cerakoting won't help. The finish will likely continue to peel under the new coating and you'll have a hell of a mess then. I agree, send it for a hard-chrome or don't bother at all. (The hard-chromers will remove the old finish as part of the process.)
 
Thanks for the info, the cop I got it from said it was a hell of a shooter so let's hope he's right so there will be at least one good thing about this gun, aside from its make.

Let's hope he's not the same person that told you it was stainless. :D
 
If it's in good mechanical shape, I'd consider having it hard-chromed.

Surprisingly I've never heard of that. But I just looked it up and every review on it is outstanding. Thanks for the idea, quite possibly will do that... After I shoot it and make sure it's all the previous owner made it out to be.
 
If it's peeling, cerakoting won't help. The finish will likely continue to peel under the new coating and you'll have a hell of a mess then. I agree, send it for a hard-chrome or don't bother at all. (The hard-chromers will remove the old finish as part of the process.)

The shop I've talked to about it said that they would sand it down to bare metal before durakoting it. But I'm really considering the hard chrome now.
 
Snoopy, I've had Cerakoted guns and Hard chromed guns and the Hard Chrome is a nicer finish that is a lot tougher. Do the hard chrome.
 
Snoopy, I've had Cerakoted guns and Hard chromed guns and the Hard Chrome is a nicer finish that is a lot tougher. Do the hard chrome.

I read that the hard chrome doesn't really scratch, is this true? Anything you have to say about it will be helpful. I want to get a complete understanding of it before throwing $400 towards it.
 
The shop I've talked to about it said that they would sand it down to bare metal before durakoting it. But I'm really considering the hard chrome now.

Ewww. I hope "sand" was a figure of speech! A nickel finish that's starting to peel is supposed to require some sort of chemical process to remove it. I'm pretty certain it doesn't involve sanding.
Look at a few web sites of hard-chrome outfits, perhaps they have a better explanation. For example, George Roghaar, Firearm Refinish and Restoration , has a little info.
Whatever you do, don't let some amateur with a spray gun make your problem worse.
 
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