OP
Well the reamer came from 4D Reamer Rentals
So after some tinkering which I will explain in a bit I get started
Brass plates on mill vise and some parallels to keep the cylinder level across. I hold my parallels in place with a piece of old banding bent in a U. A trick my real machinist cousin taught me.
The pictures were taken as I worked the project, not from beginning.
First I secure the ratchet in place on the cylinder with a piece cut from an old ejector rod and a brass washer made to fit cylinders. Don't want the ratchet moving around. Learned leas son the hard way on that before.
Then I put a spud in the mill, I turned it on the lathe for previous projects. It is a tight fit in a 22lr chamber in the mill
With it I can line a chamber up perfectly. Place well down in chamber and adjust vise and bed so it slides in and out perfect when clamped down. With a cylinder and this you can pretty much go from one chamber to the next with no messing around. After set up on first chamber the beds stays put and you just clamp the vice on the cylinder with spud in chamber.
Then I use lots of carb cleaner and rapid tap.
First off I drill the chamber to 9/32 (.028125) with a real good drill bit.
Then I clean that up with a 19/64 (.0297) chucking reamer
Lots of oil and cleaning cutters and holes with carb cleaner and then fresh oil
Now I am ready for the chamber reamer. Notice it has a brass pilot. The pilot that comes with the reamer is for making a 32S&W long chamber deeper. It's pilot is for a .312 hole. My cylinder started as a 22 lr and the closest sized reamer under .312 I have is 19/64 so I made my own pilot that had a 19/64 OD. The Id on this one was .2505 I uses a 1/4 reamer for the ID and polished it to fit the reamer. I could have used a 5/16 reamer, but it is a bit big at .3125. Decided not to.
I make the chamber cut in about 5 passes, pulling the reamer out, cleaning and oiling it between passes. As the cylinder was a recessed cylinder, I was able to make this a recessed cylinder also. After I cut a chamber I fill it with a piece of brass.
Finally I have a K frame 327 mag cylinder
Then I trim the barrel shank for the correct B/C gap for the cylinder using this cutter which is turned by hand by a rod through the barrel. Gives you a flat squared shank. Then a forcing cone cutter goes on the rod, then a lap
I still got some fiddling to do, But, Merry Christmas to me.
A 6" S&W K frame, 327 Federal Magnum for about $465
.
I replaced the 1/2 bobbed hammer it came with with a target hammer and need to pick though the grip pile. Eventually it will get a blue job.
It will always be a shooter grade "Frankengun" But, buying a factory one isn't an option. I do have a 4" 16-4.
Costs
10-7 frame from J&G $180+$30 shipping and $10FFL charge (2frames for 20) total $220
Old K22 barrel $60, K frame sight $55, and the hammer $35 total $150 so $370. Reamer rental $40, a can of carb cleaner $5. $415 and then 1/2 the cost of the 32-20 barrel-$50 so $465
At just $25 an hour for my shop time it is Priceless. LOL
So after some tinkering which I will explain in a bit I get started
Brass plates on mill vise and some parallels to keep the cylinder level across. I hold my parallels in place with a piece of old banding bent in a U. A trick my real machinist cousin taught me.
The pictures were taken as I worked the project, not from beginning.
First I secure the ratchet in place on the cylinder with a piece cut from an old ejector rod and a brass washer made to fit cylinders. Don't want the ratchet moving around. Learned leas son the hard way on that before.
Then I put a spud in the mill, I turned it on the lathe for previous projects. It is a tight fit in a 22lr chamber in the mill
With it I can line a chamber up perfectly. Place well down in chamber and adjust vise and bed so it slides in and out perfect when clamped down. With a cylinder and this you can pretty much go from one chamber to the next with no messing around. After set up on first chamber the beds stays put and you just clamp the vice on the cylinder with spud in chamber.
Then I use lots of carb cleaner and rapid tap.
First off I drill the chamber to 9/32 (.028125) with a real good drill bit.
Then I clean that up with a 19/64 (.0297) chucking reamer
Lots of oil and cleaning cutters and holes with carb cleaner and then fresh oil
Now I am ready for the chamber reamer. Notice it has a brass pilot. The pilot that comes with the reamer is for making a 32S&W long chamber deeper. It's pilot is for a .312 hole. My cylinder started as a 22 lr and the closest sized reamer under .312 I have is 19/64 so I made my own pilot that had a 19/64 OD. The Id on this one was .2505 I uses a 1/4 reamer for the ID and polished it to fit the reamer. I could have used a 5/16 reamer, but it is a bit big at .3125. Decided not to.
I make the chamber cut in about 5 passes, pulling the reamer out, cleaning and oiling it between passes. As the cylinder was a recessed cylinder, I was able to make this a recessed cylinder also. After I cut a chamber I fill it with a piece of brass.
Finally I have a K frame 327 mag cylinder
Then I trim the barrel shank for the correct B/C gap for the cylinder using this cutter which is turned by hand by a rod through the barrel. Gives you a flat squared shank. Then a forcing cone cutter goes on the rod, then a lap
I still got some fiddling to do, But, Merry Christmas to me.
A 6" S&W K frame, 327 Federal Magnum for about $465
I replaced the 1/2 bobbed hammer it came with with a target hammer and need to pick though the grip pile. Eventually it will get a blue job.
It will always be a shooter grade "Frankengun" But, buying a factory one isn't an option. I do have a 4" 16-4.
Costs
10-7 frame from J&G $180+$30 shipping and $10FFL charge (2frames for 20) total $220
Old K22 barrel $60, K frame sight $55, and the hammer $35 total $150 so $370. Reamer rental $40, a can of carb cleaner $5. $415 and then 1/2 the cost of the 32-20 barrel-$50 so $465
At just $25 an hour for my shop time it is Priceless. LOL
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