Lead for slugging???

RegisG

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I want to slug my M&P 9 but, I do not have any particularly soft lead. I do have some wheel weight cast bullets (from friend) that are .3555, .3565, .357 and .3581.

Is there any reason that I would have a problem running these cast bullets through (small first then large)? Is it just a little harder to ram through or is there something I just don't know?

Thanks,
Regis
 
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If you know anyone who shoots blackpowder revolvers or rifles in 36-38cal you can use one of the .360 or .380 round balls. Or even a 000 Buck shot which is 36 cal. It will upset enough to do the job for you and be next to free. a brass rod and mallet would give you the oooph to drive it through pretty easy.
 
I'd start with a .357 bullet, lubricated with something like case sizing lube. You should be able to drive it through with a hammer and rod. I always carry a 5/16" bolt 6" long, with the shaft wrapped completely with masking tape for such jobs.
 
Take your fattest bullet, and drive it thru from the breech end, lubing the bore with plenty of light oil ahead and behind. .3581 should be ample to fill the bore 100%.
Just use plenty of oil and light blows with a heavy hammer or mallet, barrel well-supported.

Larry
 
You will get the most accurate results using pure lead. I use Hornady muzzleloading balls. It is easy to change the diameter of them. If they are too large, just roll them between plates. If they are too small just flatten them somewhat with a hammer. Make sure you oil the bore and the lead you plan to use.

If you decide to use the lead sinkers, make sure you check to make sure they are pure lead. Many aren't these days. Pure lead can be marked with your fingernail.

If you can't find any, PM me and I will send you some.
 
Thanks to everyone. I'll try to find some lead today and if not, will just go with the bullets that I have.

Thanks again,
Regis
 
Bullets cast of wheel weights can be on the hard side, making slugging harder than necessary. Swaged bullets are softer and muzzle loading balls and bullets are usually soft lead.
I found fishing sinkers, bell type sinker, soft lead with a small end and bigger bottom worked just fine. Bought a assorted size package, find one that's close to bore size, small end goes in first and large end fills the bore. Just make sure the sinkers are lead.
Gary
Gary
 
Regis, for what it's worth, I've successfully used the lead "egg" sinkers, well-lubed, and hardwood dowels or sections thereof in succession, fitting the bore (or revolver chambers) as closely as possible. The only hitch was with accurate measurement of a slug driven through a barrel with an odd number of grooves.
 
Well, I did use a sinker (fishing weight) on my full size M&P 9. Turned out to be .356 Now after all my reading, that seems to be amazing..

Regis
 
LBT also has bore slugging kits and supplies along with directions.
Lead Bullets Technology
Veral Smith at LBT invented the modern WFN bullet which Cast Performance and Beartooth now make.
AFAIAC Veral is the modern successor to Elmer Keith when it comes to cast bullet design.
His book is a little hard to wade thru as he is not the most eloquent man but is well worthwhile for anyone who shoots cast bullets.
Several new ideas some of which directly contradict Elmer.
You decide!

===
Nemo
 
I've seen were folks would lead fishing weight, put it in a fired casing of caliber in question, and melt it using a hand torch. Should give you a cylindrical slug slightly larger than barrel.
 
I've seen were folks would lead fishing weight, put it in a fired casing of caliber in question, and melt it using a hand torch. Should give you a cylindrical slug slightly larger than barrel.

I've done it this way too. The stick-on lead wheel weights I got off my old rims are real soft & worked quit well for this. Each time I've bought fishing sinkers they ended up either the wrong size, or too hard, to be used by themselves.

While I've used fired/expanded cases of the same caliber I've also used scraped/range-find rifle brass & cut it off about an inch from the rim with a small copper pipe wheel cutter. Then I melt pieces of the stick-on weight in it.

A 5/16" oak dowel rod can be found at local hardware store for a buck or two. It's strong enough, & won't damage the bore.

.
 
Thanks for the suggestion.
Those oak dowels are useful for all sorts of things.
I just got a couple to play with and to secure a mercury recoil suppressor in a double barrel stocks.
Wood cleaning (and loading) rods used to be the standard.

===
Nemo
 
There used to be a product named "Cerrosafe" that allowed you to make a cast of your bore or chamber. It melted at a fairly low temp and shrinkage was minimal. Better still, you could measure it and then reuse the stuff. I don't know who sells it, or even if its still made.
 
Also go to the Dardas site. He sells the lead balls for slugging real cheap and will measure your slugs for free. I did my M&P 9mm and found I needed the 0.357 bullets. It's a good service.
 
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