Learning to shoot a revolver faster with accuracy

addendum: Get as high on the backstrap as you can. That will help with muzzle flip and get you back on target faster.

Softer loads vs. full charge loads will aid in getting back on target faster

Starting the trigger squeeze while coming back onto target vs having perfect sight alignment then starting the trigger squeeze will take a couple hundredths of a second off the time

Hold onto the gun like it owes you money. A good firm grip will minimize shifting in the hands

Learn to reload with your off hand vs. shifting the gun to the opposite hand to do reloads. Maintaining a proper grip throughout will shave time off your overall time

If you are shooting competition, learn to reload on the move. Any time you are not putting rounds on target is wasted time
 
When I got bored with dry firing, I bought an iTarget. Same theory, but with feedback. It has helped me quite a bit with controlling my trigger finger independent of my other fingers, thumb, and hand holding on to the gun. I need to buy a couple more laser cartridges in .38/.357 to be able to shoot strings, six total would be ideal, but they’re around $30 each. It works really well with TDA hammer fired semis in teaching trigger control in DA, but I digress...great tool IMO for learning good habits with all guns.
 
Thanks everyone for the great advice, sorry it took me so long to respond back but SWF is blocked at my office, yes I am still going into the office. My goal is to shoot my revolvers close to how I shoot my semi-auto's. I have a K-22 and I am going to start bringing that to the range every week and dry firing. My focus is solely on the trigger pull and getting a smooth consistent shot off. I own a dozen or so revolvers but really never was into wheel gun shooting until lately, I would bring the occasional revolver to the range and take my time and was fairly accurate but trying to pick up the speed of my shots was where all my faults appeared. I like the suggestion of sticking to 1 gun and not staging the trigger. I am guilty of bringing too many with me each week. Let me master the K22 then move on back to the Model 27. Here is my Les Baer target, I am not a total mush with a gun just a mush with a revolver. i will get there.

 
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We would have trainees lay a dime or two on the barrel of a revolver and dry fire at a blank wall. The closer to the muzzle you place the dime the harder it is. Good way to teach smooth controlled trigger pull and follow through.

When they had enough trigger control to keep it there through four or five DA cycles with the dime right behind the front sight it was time to go outside and start on live ammo.
 
I used to shoot PPC and NRA Action shooting with heavy barreled S&W's what I did was and you can try this take the erasure out of a pencil and super glue it to the frame behind the trigger and use an emery board and dress it down until when you double action it the trigger will hesitate and just a little more pull and it will break and fire, if you dont like it, you can easily remove it. Some of the fastest falling plate shooters told me to turn the filter on the front of the Aimpoint and black it out and shoot with both eyes open. Hope this helps a little. Jeff
 
i'm far from an expert, but i would say that if you are satisfied with your first shot accuracy, but not with follow up shots, you need to work on your follow through. you can practice this during slow fire. always bring the sights back on target after the shot instead of lowering the gun or looking downrange to see if you've hit. once you have that down, work on developing a rhythm to reset the trigger in time with getting the sights back on target. only when you have that smooth coordination of sight reacquisition and trigger reset should you bother trying to speed things up.


hope that makes sense.
 
I remember the sage advice of Wyatt Earp. Better to be a bit more accurate than a bit too fast. Make that first shot count.
 
I don't wish to be a fast shooter. I wish to be a straight shooter. I like what the character played by Robert Culp taught Hannie Caulder (Raquel Welch). "First comes right; Then comes fast."
 
A rookie observation: you are gonna need exceptional upper body strength.

This old man's arms/shoulders tire quickly wielding a heavy revolver.:)
 
Groo here
After some classes with Grant Cunningham [revolver],,,
I might suggest......
Use 8 1/2x11in paper as a target, range 5yds.....
Anything on paper is a 1 , everything else a 0....
Do Not shoot for groups!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The paper is the target..
Shoot 6 or less times at the target ,, always getting the number of hits
on paper as the number you pick [even if you must reload and shoot more]
When you can shoot as fast as you can work the trigger and put shoots on target all the time ,, make the target smaller and repeat.
In two days and 300 rds,, we went from 8 1/2 x 11 paper to a 4 in circle
and all 6 hits
DA is for close range ,SD , at speed, not for longer range and groups
Many try to shoot tight and get flustered.
My last full run with a M-625 3in and hardball was under 3 sec with all hits on a 4in dot at 5yds from a low ready.[note mil spec 45 acp ammo]
 
Hmm?... A better Trainer?

Right now,... just dreamin' for better dry fire.

My thoughts are:

  • How about a/an imager/recorder that would record BOTH the revolver "fire" sound/click and match it to the camera "image" at that instant? Obviously focused on the target.
  • An algorithm that gives an average comparison of accuracy of above (to help improve results) X 10 or even X 50?

Come on folks! Don't any of us have kids/grand-kids that can come up with this kind of system? Just guessin' it could be rather lucrative in $$$... Surely it couldn't be too much more involved than matching a "laser sight" with another piece of software that measures the sound of a fire/click and matches it with the image, sequentially.

And SURE, I only ask for 5% of gross sales, from the entity /group/corp/co/etc./one who masters this. (honestly). And yes, I date-stamped this...
 
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Groo01 said:
Groo here
After some classes with Grant Cunningham [revolver],,,
I might suggest......
Use 8 1/2x11in paper as a target, range 5yds.....
Anything on paper is a 1 , everything else a 0....
Do Not shoot for groups!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The paper is the target..
Shoot 6 or less times at the target ,, always getting the number of hits
on paper as the number you pick [even if you must reload and shoot more]
When you can shoot as fast as you can work the trigger and put shoots on target all the time ,, make the target smaller and repeat.
In two days and 300 rds,, we went from 8 1/2 x 11 paper to a 4 in circle
and all 6 hits
DA is for close range ,SD , at speed, not for longer range and groups
Many try to shoot tight and get flustered.
My last full run with a M-625 3in and hardball was under 3 sec with all hits on a 4in dot at 5yds from a low ready.[note mil spec 45 acp ammo]
Click to expand...

I agree with much of the what you say except,

“... DA is for close range ,SD , at speed, not for longer range and groups...”

There are a whole bunch of us PPC shooters who solemnly believe that DA is the only way to win at long range. Many of us would practice the course at double ranges. Or at normal distances and 1/2 time.

Dry firing is how I maintain my trigger and sight control.

Kevin
 
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When you are rapid firing magnum’s with decent recoil, are you actually focusing the front sight at point on every round, or are you aiming the first round then for remaining rounds letting muzzle drop from recoil to where instinct tells you the first round was at?
Rapid for me is like 4-5 seconds for 6 44 magnum with 5” barrel. As far as accuracy, at 17.5 yards about 12” x 14” spread
 
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