Life expectancy of a scandium frame???

Superheat

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I was at the range and a couple of guys were talking about BUG's and how they would shoot more if they had a steel J frame. Why? I asked. They said the aluminum and SCANDIUM frames wear out and they didn't want to wear out their guns. I've been shooting mine and thought it would last for a good long time, am I wearing my gun out? They said they wear by opening and closing the cylinder. I looked at my 327 night guard and see quite a bit of wear into the frame where the cylinder closes. I was planning on shooting this gun for competition for years to come. If it will wear out I am going to sell it. Does S&W warranty this wear??
 
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If the barrel is not over torqued it should last forever, especially with 38 spc. The wear you are seeing is most likely the black coating coming off. Yes S&W warrants the frame should you ever have a problem.
 
ENH, I would tend to believe you. I think I was getting urban legend. I found a pic of the spot on my 327 Night guard. IF I COULD JUST FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST A PIC.
 
Considering that many makers- Colt, S&W, Taurus and others have been making alloy frame revolvers for years, I highly doubt that regular shooting will wear it out.

I have a friend that has carried an old model 37 for so many years, that all the writing on the sides of the barrel is gone from it being in his pocket with change and keys and it looks like a "stainless" gun because there is no finish left on it, unless you call scratches and gouges finish.

Yes, the center pin from the cylinder will cut a trough in the frame where it traverses it, but this is only natural. A good polishing though to make certain there is no burrs on it won't hurt a thing.

I guarantee you that it will outlast most of all of us on this board if it is well maintained. Now, I didn't say the finish will take that much abuse, but the finish on a blued gun will come off after carrying it every day in a pocket for 20+ years too. (I've seen it!)
 
Superheat - bdgreen made the below posting and is how I learned to post pictures. Not hard at all. Now after you register with Photo Bucket and have pictures stored on your computer in "My Pictures" or you files, you open photo bucket and click on up load and choose the pictures you want to upload to photo bucket. It is easy.

from bdGreen

I use Photo bucket at 'photo bucket.com'

It's free...

1. REGISTER

2. LOGIN

3. Have your image stored on your hard drive.

4. You will see a square empty box about midway down on your screen with a blue box with white lettering that says:

"CHOOSE FILES"

5. Double tap "CHOOSE FILES"

6. Browse to the directory on your hard drive where the image is stored.

6. Double click the image file name.

7. The file will automatically download and will now be stored on your Photo bucket page. It will remain stored there until you delete it.

8. For posting to a forum go to the image of your choice. Below that image find the blue 'IMG code' line. (Pale yellow background box with fine black lettering.)

11. Place your cursor on the text 'IMG code' and tap the left mouse button one time which will turn the box background blue.

12. While it is now white lettering with a blue background press the right mouse button and select 'COPY'.

13. Open up a new post on the Forum or respond to an existing one.

14. Place your cursor in the dialogue box.

15. Press the right mouse button and select 'PASTE'.

16. The whole image title should be in the dialogue box with the brackets and
at the end of the string.

17. If you "Post Now", your post will have just your image. Now is the time to add your text. Just don't disrupt the format of the pasted image.

18. If your image is much too large you can go back to Photobucket and use their "EDIT" button to resize your image. Or, you can go back to your own photo editor for a resize and resubmit the image.

I find that if you size your images to 800 pixels wide you will get maximum page size without being too large. That is providing your picture was taken at a nominal size to begin with. If your picture started out smaller than that then leave it so it won't be distorted by a resize.

One word of caution. Once you have posted your pictures and submitted them to the post if you go back into Photobucket and delete the image all of your posts will lose that image.

Good Luck

bdGreen

This message has been edited. Last edited by: bdGreen, 16 May 2008 10:40 AM
 
Originally posted by Superheat:
ENH, I would tend to believe you. I think I was getting urban legend. I found a pic of the spot on my 327 Night guard. IF I COULD JUST FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST A PIC.

Send me the picture and I will post it for you.

As far as warranty, I don't think so. The S&W lifetime warranty is no more. my last new one only has 1 year.
 
Hi, Scandium frames are only good for like 500 rounds. If you have shot that many in them already then I will gladly buy your revolver for $100.00...I know this is a lot to offer you on a broken down revolver but you can put the money towards a quality metal K,L or N frame.
icon_biggrin.gif
HAA HAA

The scandium revolvers are great revolvers they can handle almost anything you throw in them...
 
Originally posted by Revolver_King:
Originally posted by Superheat:
ENH, I would tend to believe you. I think I was getting urban legend. I found a pic of the spot on my 327 Night guard. IF I COULD JUST FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST A PIC.

Send me the picture and I will post it for you.

As far as warranty, I don't think so. The S&W lifetime warranty is no more. my last new one only has 1 year.

This from the S&W web site:

Warranty Information
The Smith & Wesson Advantage™
In addition to providing some of the highest quality products available today, Smith & Wesson is committed to providing our customers with support and services second to none. When you purchase a Smith & Wesson handgun, you receive the Smith & Wesson Advantage™, comprised of four service features:


1. Lifetime Service Policy


We will repair any defect in material or workmanship without charge to the original purchaser for as long as you own the handgun.


2. Expedited 911 Priority Service


This service is available in the event emergency repairs are needed by law enforcement, military, or government personnel. This service allows you to expedite the prompt repair and return of your handgun.


3. Easy Access Customer Support


Our customer support representatives are available to assist your every need.

Contact Us


4. Pride
Our customer support staff is proud to represent Smith & Wesson. They are dedicated to helping customers and look forward to providing you with a level of support equal to the quality level of Smith & Wesson products. Call us any time, even before you make your purchase. Our customer support team is product knowledgeable and can help you decide which model best suits your needs.
 
I suspect your wrist will give out before your gun does if you don't shoot overly hot loads.

Hot loads will accelerate wear on the gun and your wrist and are accumulative on both.
 
Shoot and enjoy. I have carried and fired my 340PD for years and have not had any trouble with wear, other than normal finish-wear. Frame is fine and an armorer looked it over right before I retired. Shoot on, my friend.....
 
I had once heard that the early Colt Commanders with alloy frames were only good for 5,000 rounds due to steel wearing against aluminum. I don't know whether or not it was true, but alloy composition has come a long way since that pistol was introduced, and a lot of the wunder guns of the hi capacity semi auto persuasion have had alloy frames for years and have lived thru thousands of rounds. There may have been some in the late 80s that were manufactured to the U.S. military specifications that called for a service life of 5.000 rounds that started cracking soon after, but those issues have since been corrected. Even the frame flex in Glocks causes peening on the inside of the slide that isn't harmful to the longevity of the pistol.

It is my understanding that Scandium is one tough material. I would not be prone to worrying about excessive wear unless someone with more experience that I with alloy framed revolvers sees a problem with yours. The only advantage I've seen to steel framed revolvers is the added weight dampens recoil a bit more that the light weight alloys. That's more of a wear and tear issue on the shooter and not the gun.
 
note the wear under the barrel area.
That's really not much worse than the wear in the same location as in my 625-9. I'm not sure what to say about that other than I'm going to keep shooting the crap out of my 45 Colt mountian gun. I have 1500-2000 rounds through it.
 
RevolverKing thanks for posting my pic. Does anyone else have wear like mine? There is a groove in the frame where the (I don't know what it is called) yolk meets up with the frame.
 
That looks like very poor fitting of the crane. For what you paid for that gun, I'd send it back to them. As is said around here with increasing frequency, "S&W will make it right!". Even if they don't the first or second time.

Those frames can't be all that durable. If they were, they would not need that Obama engineering metal shield to protect the topstrap from flame cutting. "Innovative". Regards 18DAI.
 
I have a 325 NG and its just got a little wear like yours. I think its just the finsh being burned off by the hot gas. I have been all over mine and in no way does anything make contact in that area that would leave marks like that.
 
Those lightweight Colt Combat Commanders with their new-fangled aluminum alloy frame -- the ones that were going to wear out-- the ones I know of are still in service.
 
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I suspect the crane to be a bit tweeked also. The obvious mark is probably from the bushing on the back of the crane, between the crane and cylinder that the extractor rod runs in. It looks like the back of the extractor shroud has been radiused to make room for the tweeked crane. All the finish is gone from there also. I don't have that exact model here to compare but I've never seen a shroud cut that way before. Strange. If it came from the factory that way it needs to go back.
 
Those frames can't be all that durable. If they were, they would not need that Obama engineering metal shield to protect the topstrap from flame cutting. "Innovative". Regards 18DAI.
Don't confuse strength and hardness. A scandium alloy frame is very strong, but not very hard, hence the shield.
 
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