I have a 1st model M Frame Ladysmith and the cylinder, when out of the frame slides too far back. How is this fixed? Generally would be fine, model specific would be awesome!
Thanks!
Thanks!
M frame cylinder endshake
- Thread starter delcrossv
- Start date
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Same as any other Hand ejector, use thrust washers/spacer shims.
Remove yoke, remove cyl from yoke tube. Place thinnest washer (usually .002") on yoke tube. Reinstall cyl and replace yoke in gun. Check for end shake. Another washer may be needed.
Available from:
End shake shims - Michigan Ctr and Sorts
Revolver Cylinder Shims
Brownells
Remove yoke, remove cyl from yoke tube. Place thinnest washer (usually .002") on yoke tube. Reinstall cyl and replace yoke in gun. Check for end shake. Another washer may be needed.
Available from:
End shake shims - Michigan Ctr and Sorts
Revolver Cylinder Shims
Brownells
That doesn't sound like endshake. When the cylinder is OUT of the frame...
I don't know M frames, but on a K,L, or N frame there is a frame lug at the bottom rear of the cylinder cutout that keeps the cylinder in place when it's open. These can become worn, allowing the cylinder to skip over and go back too far. Maybe that's what you have, maybe not.
I don't know M frames, but on a K,L, or N frame there is a frame lug at the bottom rear of the cylinder cutout that keeps the cylinder in place when it's open. These can become worn, allowing the cylinder to skip over and go back too far. Maybe that's what you have, maybe not.
OP
I'll need several, it's about 1/32. Times fine, but slides too far back on extraction.
OP
Cylinder slides too far back when open. The washers at the front of the cylinder separate when its out of the frame.
So it needs to be held forward.It binds on the frame lug aft of the cylinder. Which is fine.
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I think Protocall_Design is correct and I'm wrong about needing shims.
It does sound like the cyl is over riding the frame stud in the lower right corner of the cyl window!
Peen the stud gently from the front on the ledge of the stud that the cyl is supposed to ride against with a flat tip punch until the cyl can not jump over it.
It does sound like the cyl is over riding the frame stud in the lower right corner of the cyl window!
Peen the stud gently from the front on the ledge of the stud that the cyl is supposed to ride against with a flat tip punch until the cyl can not jump over it.
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OP
I don't think the washers at the front of the cylinder are supposed to separate. They don't on any of my other revolvers. There's too much play toward the back.
You're right, they should not. It's the frame stud.
End shake is only gauged with the cyl closed. Is there end shake with cyl closed?
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Sloppy yoke to cylinder fit will also cause this. I got a K frame 38 from a guy that wouldn't run right for cheap. It would slide past the frame lug too. Some one had trashed the bearing surfaces on yoke. Stuck in a spare yoke and it was fine.
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OP
With the cylinder closed, not much. It's like the bearing that holds the cylinder forward against the yoke is worn. How is that fixed?
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There is no bearing that holds the cylinder on the yoke. Hand ejectors have a small projection below the recoil shield on the side the cylinder opens to. This projection or "lug" has a flat surface that the edge of the cylinders rear face touches and prevents the cylinder from moving rearward when ejecting. If your cylinder is moving back past this lug, either the lug is worn, your yoke tube is worn or out of alignment. But, if your yoke itself is sliding forward that is from the screw that holds the yoke in being work or wrong or the "button" on the end of the yoke pivot being worn were it is supposed to be retained by said screw. The screw is in the skinny part of the side plate, low above and forward of the trigger. The tip of it when removed should have an non threaded section. With this screw out and cylinder open yoke and cylinder assy should move forward and out of frame. The shaft that goes in frame has a groove near the end that tip of screw rides in and allows cylinder to pivot, but if tip fits well will keep yoke shaft from moving in and out. If tip of screw or groove is worn you yoke and cylinder will slop back and forth a bit when cylinder is open. A new screw can be fitted and if that isn't enough. The button piece on the tip of yoke shaft can be formed back a bit in the area the screw rides by someone who knows what they are doing
Here i a picture of mine. The lug is just forward of the S&W emblem and above the trigger. If yours is worn or your yoke is messed up your cylinder could get past it.
Here i a picture of mine. The lug is just forward of the S&W emblem and above the trigger. If yours is worn or your yoke is messed up your cylinder could get past it.
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retired2006
Member
Check the frame lug to see if it will turn (loose), I once had a L frame that the frame lug was loose and would turn a little, which would bind up the cylinder. they are a stud peened into the frame. I fixed mine by removing it with a small punch, cleaning, red lactate, and re-peening.
OP
The yoke to frame joint seems good, no slop. So the yoke tube is what controls movement of the cylinder vs the yoke?
I'll take a look at the cylinder stop stud as well.
I'll take a look at the cylinder stop stud as well.
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mmaher94087
Member
"..I think Protocall_Design is correct.." X2 the cylinder is slipping over the lug. Steelslaver's picture is showing a 3rd Model with the lug. The side plate can be removed and the lug driven from the frame to be replaced with another part. However, finding a part will be fun.
The yoke tube can be an issue if there's end shake with cyl closed. However I believe your gun's problem is strictly with the frame lug (stud), at least that must be fixed first. But I don't think there's any other problems based on what you've described.
The cyl is over-riding the stud and moving too far to the rear when cyl is open.
The front edge on the stud that stops backward movement of the cyl is worn and must be "upset" with a flat tip punch to increase its height so the cyl will catch on it, which will keep the cyl from slipping over it.
This is not an uncommon problem on an old revolver. A new frame stud is seldom needed. It's usually fixable in a couple of minutes by tapping on the front of edge to raise it, then it will retain the cyl from moving backwards. Tap on it until the cyl cannot slide over it. Understand? If not let me know, I'll try to describe it better. It's a very simple fix!
In this photo you can see how the cyl edge is supposed to catch on the the front edge of the frame stud:
Photo credit: steelslaver
Here's another view:
Photo credit: Lee Jarrett
Photo credit: steelslaver
Here's another view:
Photo credit: Lee Jarrett
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OP
Thanks Jim, got it. Flat round punch or a square point ?
Looks like the guy in the bottom picture forgot his moon clips.
Looks like the guy in the bottom picture forgot his moon clips.
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A 45acp will correctly head space without the clips. Looks like an ACP round in a 45 colt chamber.
I recognize the top cylinder. Its a 45 colt cylinder I cut for 45acp in moon clips.
I recognize the top cylinder. Its a 45 colt cylinder I cut for 45acp in moon clips.
Now I know who to credit for the photo!
You're close, it's a 45 ACP round in a 455 Chamber.
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