Maintaining a Shield with FrogLube?

[ocinsomniac]

The key is to only leave the thinnest of coatings when you are finished cleaning and lubing your gun. The only place you can actually "see" it on my guns is the little extra I sometimes leave on the slide channels and the front of the barrel/chamber hood, and most of that gets wiped off after cycling the action a few times.

Using heat during the initial application works much like seasoning a cast iron pan, and just as when cooking with cast iron, you normally just have to wipe them down when cleaning.

+1 - The key is to wipe down the excess leaving a thin, barely visible film, using a microfiber towel and Q-Tips in hard to reach areas. I have been using FL on all my weapons for the past year or so, and love the way carbon residue just wipes right off, makes it so much easier to clean. Also like the way it is biodegradable, no need to use nitrile gloves while using it and no more sucking up fumes from solvents.

All my semiautos, including my Shield 40, my AR's and gas piston Mossberg 930 SPX 12 gauge just love it! FL cleaning solvent is a bit pricey, as is the paste, but a little goes a long way and well worth it IMHO.

 

[rbuzz]

There are many opinions on what to use to clean and lubricate your guns, and we will never all agree on any one product, and that's great. That's why they make such a wide range of products. To each their own.
I tried Frog Lube some time ago, and love it. I like how clean ups are much easier than anything else that I've used before. You can almost just wipe everything off to clean your gun after firing. I clean my guns after each and every firing using a little FL liquid on a bore snake for the barrel. For everything else, I wipe all the crud off with an old cotton rag. I then warm things up a little with a hair dryer. Then, using an old soft toothbrush, I apply FL paste on everything else. After drying, I wipe everything down with a microfiber towel and run a clean patch down the barrel with a dab of FL liquid. To finish things off I take a very small paint brush (3/16") and "paint" a little FL liquid on the slide contact points. The process sounds more complicated than it really is, and after a while it comes as second nature. If I'm cleaning more than one gun, I can do it using a sort of an assembly line process to speed things up even more.
I use this basic process on all of my M&P semi auto hand guns, my M&P 15, M&P 15-22, Benelli M4, misc. other guns and am going to do it for the first time to my Springfield Armory TRP 45 auto. Every gun that I have used FL on so far has performed perfectly. I'm not saying that they wouldn't have performed the same after using other cleaning products, but I just like the way FL seems to protect without leaving the gun with an oily feeling. The actions are always super slick and the whole gun feels silky and you don't get that oily film on your skin or your clothes like you sometimes can with oil.
I realize that not every one has the same opinion and will choose to use other products, and that is good. But for me, FL so far has worked perfectly and until I have a problem with it, which I don't forsee, I will continue to use it on every gun I own.

 

[Justin69]

Its cold in Ohio in the winter, its nice to be able to clean my gun in the house (with fl) without running all my family out Its also made in America! (there's something you don't hear everyday) & no I don't sell it, or work for them. Just like the stuff

 

[The Sarge]

I simply do not trust frog lube as several industrial chemists I know question its formula. To add to what the others have said, there are reports of Frog Lube growing nice mold cultures in pistols when left for a while in the safe.

When I was my department's range master I tried everything out there. To this day I have not found a better product than Weapon Shield CLP. Formulated by a very respected industrial chemist, George Fennel, who also formulated FP-10. Weapon Shield cleans, oils, and protects and does a good job at each. No heating, rituals, seances required. Just apply and you are good to go. Since 2007 it is the only product used on any of my guns and I could not be more pleased. Bill

 

[Maddmax]

I've used FL almost forever.

Biggest problem I've seen is people don't follow the instructions and way over do it (just like they don't read the weapons owners manual FIRST and clean off the storage lube before firing it). Once seasoned,a little goes a VERY long way.

The cleaning removes the storage lube. The heating opens the metal pores and FL "seasons" the metal (like a cast iron pot does with cooking oil) when the metal is warm to the touch and needs to stay warm for the lube to set into the pores. Than it needs to be completely wiped off with the microfiber towel as stated,wet is NOT good. I also blow out EVERY nook and cranny with a high pressure air hose to get any hiden excess off and out. I use it as a dry lube so to speak.

I've never had any issues doing it this way in hot and humid or subzero temps. Clean up is a snap. Wipe down with an old cotton T shirt,compressed air the nooks and crannies. MAYBE a VERY light coat wiping things down now and then.

I too am old Army and clean after I shoot...

 

[JBUS]

I guess results vary.

I used FrogLube on my issued P226 and had zero issues. It ran well.

When we were authorized to carry our personal purchase Glocks I moved to my Gen4 19. FrogLube is used on that too with zero issues.

I use it on all my Glocks, my Shield,my wife's duty carry P226, her off duty carry PM9 with zero issues.

I use it on my personal duty carry 870 & LE6920 with zero issues.

 

[rrich1]

So. You need to heat your gun up to get the frog lube to work? Doesn't make sense to me. So if I use frog lube on my edc, do I need to heat my gun in cold weather if I need to defend myself? Or is my body heat enough? I'm just asking. I use M-pro7 on everything I own. It is definitely a preference for what everyone uses. Do knock me for using what I like, I'm not knocking anyone using frog lube.

love my m-pro7 products.

 

[jhawk19]

I purchased FL a few weeks ago, but have yet to apply it to my M&P 22 or my M&P9 Pro CORE. You guys have me questioning whether or not to apply it.

 

[PastureOfMuppets]

Okay cool, because all I've ever known is the good old Army "run the rags and bore cleaners through the weapon and get CLP on the range" from basic training. I applied the FrogLube as stated on the website instructions on the Shield points as stated in the manual WITHOUT heating the lube.

Given the army knows a thing or two about budgets and firearms, I would be inclined to skip the Froglube and roll with what you know works.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it and all that.

 

[rbuzz]

[QUOTE Originally Posted by AR-Getsome
So. You need to heat your gun up to get the frog lube to work? Doesn't make sense to me. So if I use frog lube on my edc, do I need to heat my gun in cold weather if I need to defend myself? Or is my body heat enough?[/QUOTE]

The idea of heating your gun before applying FL is only to heat the surface so that the FL will liquify when you apply it and so that the molecules of the metal in the gun expand to allow for the FL to be absorbed better. Heating the gun prior to application is optional and does not have to be done if not desired, although the manufacturer says that you will see better results if you do apply a little heat. Heat can be applied in several ways, from a hair dryer or just placing in the sun for a few minutes. Remember, you have to be able to handle the gun when applying FL, so you're only raising the temperature of the gun a few degrees.
After you allow the gun to sit for several minutes after applying FL, you simply wipe it off with a microfiber towel. It's similar to waxing your car. You remove any excess, but it leaves behind a coating on the gun which will remain and protect it. You will feel the difference in the gun after applying it. It will feel slick and smooth, again similar to how your car feels after waxing it.
And NO, you do not have to heat your gun before using it before self defense. The coating of FL will work just fine. The only problem that I've heard of is when people apply way too much FL and it builds up. You only need a thin layer, and then after it is absorbed, you wipe off the excess.
For me Frog Lube is a wonderful product. I use it on every gun I own. I have had zero problems, and it works great. With that said, FL may not be for everyone. It does take a very small amount more work to apply it, but to me it is worth it. It protects really well, doesn't have that harsh oil smell that some don't like, and doesn't rub off on clothing like oil can. All I can say is that if FL isn't for you, then there are many other fine products to choose from to maintain and lubricate your guns.

 

[Llando88]

Given the army knows a thing or two about budgets and firearms, I would be inclined to skip the Froglube and roll with what you know works.



If it ain't broke, don't fix it and all that.

Can't argue with that.

Well, they did pick the M9.

*ducks and runs*.






JUST KIDDING!!

 

[Bkreutz]

Given the army knows a thing or two about budgets and firearms, I would be inclined to skip the Froglube and roll with what you know works.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it and all that.

I spent 10 years in the Army, I don't recall anyone asking field troops for input on weapons. Most budgets and weapons procurement is handled by people who don't know which end of the weapon is supposed to be pointed at the bad guys. After the said weapons are procured, they're given to the troops with the "make it work" instruction. I'm afraid any more comments will get me dinged by the management.

 

[TheMystro]

Good alternatives that are proven are ... G96, Slip 2000 EWL, Weapons Shield.

 

[Desertpilot]

I've used Frog Lube since I purchased my M&P 40c almost two years ago. No issues or concerns at all. The weapon loads and fires every time. Probably about 2,000 rounds of Lawman 180 gr practice ammo and about 200 rounds of 180 gr GDHP.

I go to the range once or twice a month. I always fire the mag full of Speer GDHP I've been carrying for the last few weeks. A great confidence booster for me to know that what I have been carrying will indeed fire when I need it. Then I proceed with about 100 rounds of Lawman practice ammo. Works every time!

Marcus

 

[PastureOfMuppets]

I spent 10 years in the Army, I don't recall anyone asking field troops for input on weapons. Most budgets and weapons procurement is handled by people who don't know which end of the weapon is supposed to be pointed at the bad guys. After the said weapons are procured, they're given to the troops with the "make it work" instruction. I'm afraid any more comments will get me dinged by the management.

I hear you.

And how do troops make them work?

 

[mmracing]

I use FrogLube on my M&P 22, Shield 9, 9c, and FS 40 with 1000's of rounds through them. No problems at all. Yes, it takes a little work to use it initially but makes cleanup after the range a breeze.

 

[Horsehaulin]

Use it on everything from my M&P9, M&P40 to my Sig Sauer 1911 or M&P15T. Even my early Remington Model 10 and Ithaca side by side 12 gauge get a monthly dose! Nothing has ever cleaned my firearms better.

 

[Bkreutz]

I hear you.

And how do troops make them work?

It's called "Field Expedient Engineering" (actually there are other terms that would definitely get me dinged if I repeated them here )

 

[jdvs327]

Sorry for the late reply. I finally got a chance to clean my Shield, and I've got a lot of insight after reading this thread. The only real question I have left is, after cleaning a FrogLubed gun, do you guys always reapply the CLP after cleaning? Or only after so many sessions? I ask because of how the FL is supposed to 'get into the metal of the gun'.

 

[Bkreutz]

Sorry for the late reply. I finally got a chance to clean my Shield, and I've got a lot of insight after reading this thread. The only real question I have left is, after cleaning a FrogLubed gun, do you guys always reapply the CLP after cleaning? Or only after so many sessions? I ask because of how the FL is supposed to 'get into the metal of the gun'.

What I do (and I emphasize "I") I brush the paste on the lower and upper parts and then wipe it off, I put a dab of paste on the 4 slide guides on the lower. Everything else gets wiped dry. I use the gel on the bore and run a brass brush though it, and then run patches through until they're clean.I clean my pistol every week or so (1000-2000 rounds) I shoot just about every day, if I was going to let the pistol sit around I would clean it at a more frequent interval.