Looks perfect!
Making Screws for my Schofield
- Thread starter wlw-19958
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OP
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Hi There,
Well, it has been a long time since I posted on this topic. I had
a lot of medical issues during the last year that seriously hampered
my work but the last few months I have had a reasonable turn-
around and I am getting back to the projects that had been left
wanting.
In particular, the screws that I needed to make for my badly ab-
used Schofield Second Issue. The last few days I had been
making the fixtures I needed to make the pivot screw for it.
Just to re-cap, here are some pics of the old screw.
Cheers!
Webb
Well, it has been a long time since I posted on this topic. I had
a lot of medical issues during the last year that seriously hampered
my work but the last few months I have had a reasonable turn-
around and I am getting back to the projects that had been left
wanting.
In particular, the screws that I needed to make for my badly ab-
used Schofield Second Issue. The last few days I had been
making the fixtures I needed to make the pivot screw for it.
Just to re-cap, here are some pics of the old screw.
Cheers!
Webb
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OP
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shown50
Member
Sorry to hear about your health issues but I'm glad you've made a turnaround! Those screws came out awesome! I wish I had someone as talented as you closer to me so I could get a strain screw made for my 44 Double Action in 44 Russian.
TomTownUSA
Member
Any Schofield screw machinests close to NE Ohio
Very interesting discussions, thanks. I have a 2nd model civilian that the hammer pin cap screw is missing or broken off, do not know. I did not attempt to remove the side plate to check the actual problem, did not want to make anything worse. I also have a working New Model 3 made in 1881 to act as an example pin to be copied if needed. Is there any of you expert machinist / gunsmith Schofield familiar experts within a few hundred miles that might like to take on the job of restoring my gem to original working order ?????? Any discussion would be appreciated.
Very interesting discussions, thanks. I have a 2nd model civilian that the hammer pin cap screw is missing or broken off, do not know. I did not attempt to remove the side plate to check the actual problem, did not want to make anything worse. I also have a working New Model 3 made in 1881 to act as an example pin to be copied if needed. Is there any of you expert machinist / gunsmith Schofield familiar experts within a few hundred miles that might like to take on the job of restoring my gem to original working order ?????? Any discussion would be appreciated.
OP
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Hi There,
I'm trying to understand which screw is the "hammer pin cap
screw." I assume you are referring to the screw in the center
of the side plate. If the screw has broken off in the hammer
stud, you should be able to remove the side plate without
harm to the revolver. This screw, missing or broken shouldn't
prevent the gun from working (so long as the hammer stud
isn't loose in the frame). Are there any other issues with this
revolver that prevent it from functioning?
One shouldn't pry off the side plate on any revolver. There is
a proper technique for removing side plates that uses inertia
to remove it. In case you are not familiar, the way is to re-
move the grips first and then, using a non-marring hammer
(or screwdriver handle will work) tap on the grip area of the
frame, on the same side as the side plate. The frame will be
moved downward but the inertia of the side plate will resist
moving and will work its way up and out of the frame. Presto!
Cheers!
Webb
I'm trying to understand which screw is the "hammer pin cap
screw." I assume you are referring to the screw in the center
of the side plate. If the screw has broken off in the hammer
stud, you should be able to remove the side plate without
harm to the revolver. This screw, missing or broken shouldn't
prevent the gun from working (so long as the hammer stud
isn't loose in the frame). Are there any other issues with this
revolver that prevent it from functioning?
One shouldn't pry off the side plate on any revolver. There is
a proper technique for removing side plates that uses inertia
to remove it. In case you are not familiar, the way is to re-
move the grips first and then, using a non-marring hammer
(or screwdriver handle will work) tap on the grip area of the
frame, on the same side as the side plate. The frame will be
moved downward but the inertia of the side plate will resist
moving and will work its way up and out of the frame. Presto!
Cheers!
Webb
TomTownUSA
Member
Great job... I have a 2nd model Schofield with a hammer pivot screw/pin missing or broken off end or capping screw. I hesitate to remove the plate to see the exact problem and it's configuration. Since you own a 2nd model could you supply the exact configuration and dimensions of the complete pin and screw cap so I can have a local smith/machinist make a replacement. My gem is one of the 650 civilian models produced and I am so blessed to have found and to now own this wonderful piece of American old West history. It appears that I am the first collector to own this piece hence no earlier fix has ever been attempted. I currently only have drawn parts schematics to suggest its actual configuration. Thank you so much for your time and consideration, Tom
OP
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Hi There,
I don't know if you noticed my previous post but it was directed
towards you and your problem.
I removed the side plate screw from my Schofield 2nd Model
and I measured it. See Pic.
I don't want to remove the Hammer Stud because these can be
stubborn to remove and I don't want to damage anything. You
can take a piece of wire and measure how deep the threaded
hole is currently. Mine measures 1/2" from the top of the side
plate to the bottom of the threaded hammer stud hole.
Cheers!
Webb
I don't know if you noticed my previous post but it was directed
towards you and your problem.
I removed the side plate screw from my Schofield 2nd Model
and I measured it. See Pic.
I don't want to remove the Hammer Stud because these can be
stubborn to remove and I don't want to damage anything. You
can take a piece of wire and measure how deep the threaded
hole is currently. Mine measures 1/2" from the top of the side
plate to the bottom of the threaded hammer stud hole.
Cheers!
Webb
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OP
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I am impressed. I am much to clumsy to maker those little screws and have them come out anywhere near that nice
TomTownUSA
Member
Schofield 2nd mod hammer stud screw (mid plate screw) missing
Thank you for the stud pic w/sizes. I noted your plate removal info too. I was afraid to remove the plate because the Schofield latch screw must go and the latch appears spring loaded, did not want to get into more trouble. The cylinder lock spring was broken, purchased Uberti spring, when replaced & cock attempt not working. Portion of the hammer not pushing down spring to release cyl.. maybe since no stud screw in hammer pivot pin it is now off center not allowing hammer to push down cyl lock spring...do not know.. If I remove side plate maybe can observe problem. Great to find someone to help..
Thank you for the stud pic w/sizes. I noted your plate removal info too. I was afraid to remove the plate because the Schofield latch screw must go and the latch appears spring loaded, did not want to get into more trouble. The cylinder lock spring was broken, purchased Uberti spring, when replaced & cock attempt not working. Portion of the hammer not pushing down spring to release cyl.. maybe since no stud screw in hammer pivot pin it is now off center not allowing hammer to push down cyl lock spring...do not know.. If I remove side plate maybe can observe problem. Great to find someone to help..
TomTownUSA
Member
Schofield 2nd mod mid plate screw missing
I attempted to add an image and it wants a URL.. I am not familiar with this opposed to just browsing and opening a pic... I tried but did not work. I will make another attempt here..
I attempted to add an image and it wants a URL.. I am not familiar with this opposed to just browsing and opening a pic... I tried but did not work. I will make another attempt here..
OP
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Hi There,
Yeah, the picture posting part of this site can be confusing. You
can post pics from your computer but it isn't intuitive. I use the
orange Post Reply "button" under the last post on the left-
hand side of the screen. That will open a new screen with a
grey box where you can type your response and there are two
tabs to Preview Post or Submit Reply. If you scroll down,
there is another grey box for "Additional Options" where you
can Manage Attachments.
Pressing the Manage Attachments tab will open a pop-up
window. From there you can add pics two different ways.
You can type in an URL to a pic on-line OR you can press the
Browse tab (just above the URL address slot) and a folder
window will pop up allowing you to navigate to the location of
the pics you want to upload. Jpegs files work the best but it
will accept other types too. You can see the types and max
file sizes on the Manage Attachments window.
Then you just select the pic files (one at a time) and then click
the Upload tab to upload them to this site (so you have to
Browse and then Upload each file one at a time) for a max
of 5 pics per posting.
I hope I was able to make this clear. I'm sure you will "get it"
after a few tries.
Cheers!
Webb
I attempted to add an image and it wants a URL.. I am not familiar with this opposed to just browsing and opening a pic... I tried but did not work. I will make another attempt here..
Yeah, the picture posting part of this site can be confusing. You
can post pics from your computer but it isn't intuitive. I use the
orange Post Reply "button" under the last post on the left-
hand side of the screen. That will open a new screen with a
grey box where you can type your response and there are two
tabs to Preview Post or Submit Reply. If you scroll down,
there is another grey box for "Additional Options" where you
can Manage Attachments.
Pressing the Manage Attachments tab will open a pop-up
window. From there you can add pics two different ways.
You can type in an URL to a pic on-line OR you can press the
Browse tab (just above the URL address slot) and a folder
window will pop up allowing you to navigate to the location of
the pics you want to upload. Jpegs files work the best but it
will accept other types too. You can see the types and max
file sizes on the Manage Attachments window.
Then you just select the pic files (one at a time) and then click
the Upload tab to upload them to this site (so you have to
Browse and then Upload each file one at a time) for a max
of 5 pics per posting.
I hope I was able to make this clear. I'm sure you will "get it"
after a few tries.
Cheers!
Webb
OP
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Hi There,
Removing the barrel latch isn't hard. I will post some pics for
you to see how to remove and install the barrel latch on the
Schofield 2nd Model.
Pic-1: Here is my Schofield.
Pic-2: Pull the hammer back to the first click and Remove the
Barrel Latch Screw.
Pic-3: The latch will move up a little. This is normal.
Pic-4: Pull back on the Latch a little and,
Pic-5: Remove the Latch from the frame.
More to come...
Webb
I was afraid to remove the plate because the Schofield latch screw must go and the latch appears spring loaded, did not want to get into more trouble.
Removing the barrel latch isn't hard. I will post some pics for
you to see how to remove and install the barrel latch on the
Schofield 2nd Model.
Pic-1: Here is my Schofield.
Pic-2: Pull the hammer back to the first click and Remove the
Barrel Latch Screw.
Pic-3: The latch will move up a little. This is normal.
Pic-4: Pull back on the Latch a little and,
Pic-5: Remove the Latch from the frame.
More to come...
Webb
Attachments
I attempted to add an image and it wants a URL.. I am not familiar with this opposed to just browsing and opening a pic... I tried but did not work. I will make another attempt here..
Video Tutorials on Posting Pictures
OP
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Hi There,
To Continue,
Pic-6: On the other side of the frame, you will notice the end of
the Spring that controls the Barrel Latch.
Pic-7: There is a corresponding notch in the Barrel Latch the
end of the Spring engages.
Pic-8: Fully cock the Hammer and install the Barrel Latch with
a rotating motion; making sure the notch in the Latch engages
the end of the spring.
Pic-9: Using your thumb, Press down on the Latch and let it
rotate into position.
Pic-10: While pressing down on the Latch, Insert the Barrel
Latch Screw and screw it into place.
As you can see, it isn't difficult to remove and replace the Barrel
Latch on a Schofield Model.
Cheers!
Webb
To Continue,
Pic-6: On the other side of the frame, you will notice the end of
the Spring that controls the Barrel Latch.
Pic-7: There is a corresponding notch in the Barrel Latch the
end of the Spring engages.
Pic-8: Fully cock the Hammer and install the Barrel Latch with
a rotating motion; making sure the notch in the Latch engages
the end of the spring.
Pic-9: Using your thumb, Press down on the Latch and let it
rotate into position.
Pic-10: While pressing down on the Latch, Insert the Barrel
Latch Screw and screw it into place.
As you can see, it isn't difficult to remove and replace the Barrel
Latch on a Schofield Model.
Cheers!
Webb
Attachments
TomTownUSA
Member
Schofield 2nd mod pics for Webb
Hello, again, thanks for all the help.
I hope the pics got uploaded OK... I also noted removal of the cylinder latch for plate removal.
Note the writing on the inside of the grip... not sure of the date but the other appears to be "J Harris to A.E.Coberly" ... interesting. I will be removing the plate today and will post what I can see. thanks again for your VERY WORTHWHILE help. Tom
PS: Have you ever heard how many CIVILIAN models have ever surfaced... thanks
Hello, again, thanks for all the help.
I hope the pics got uploaded OK... I also noted removal of the cylinder latch for plate removal.
Note the writing on the inside of the grip... not sure of the date but the other appears to be "J Harris to A.E.Coberly" ... interesting. I will be removing the plate today and will post what I can see. thanks again for your VERY WORTHWHILE help. Tom
PS: Have you ever heard how many CIVILIAN models have ever surfaced... thanks
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OP
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Hi There,
There is a misconception here. The Cylinder Stop (sometimes
called a cylinder stop bolt) is controlled by the Trigger. This was
the new type of lock work that S&W went to in 1874 (or late
1873). It first came out when the Russian 3rd Model came out.
This new lock work was also used in all Schofields and late
model No. 3's. The telltale of the new lock work is the tip of
the trigger. With the Old Lock Work, the end of the trigger is
squared off and with the New Lock Work, the end of the trig-
ger is pointed and all Schofields have the pointed trigger.
This Lock Work was carried over to the New Model No. 3's.
There is a "shelf" on the trigger that the end of the Cylinder
Stop sits on. When the hammer is brought back to the first
"click," the trigger will move away from the back of the trigger
guard and that makes this "shelf" move up and the Cylinder
Stop dips down (like a teeter-totter); pivoting about its pin.
When the hammer is brought back to full cock, the trigger
moves back towards the rear of the trigger guard. The "shelf"
moves down and the Cylinder Stop pivots up to engage the
cylinder stop notch (think of the teeter-totter).
If the Cylinder Stop doesn't move up, then something is pre-
venting it. Make sure the trigger moves freely. Also, make sure
the spring is in the correct place and isn't hanging up on the
sides of the cutout in the bottom strap for the Cylinder Stop.
The Cylinder Stop should protrude through the bottom strap
when the hammer is all the way down and at full cock.
Cheers!
Webb
The cylinder lock spring was broken, purchased Uberti spring, when replaced & cock attempt not working. Portion of the hammer not pushing down spring to release cyl..
There is a misconception here. The Cylinder Stop (sometimes
called a cylinder stop bolt) is controlled by the Trigger. This was
the new type of lock work that S&W went to in 1874 (or late
1873). It first came out when the Russian 3rd Model came out.
This new lock work was also used in all Schofields and late
model No. 3's. The telltale of the new lock work is the tip of
the trigger. With the Old Lock Work, the end of the trigger is
squared off and with the New Lock Work, the end of the trig-
ger is pointed and all Schofields have the pointed trigger.
This Lock Work was carried over to the New Model No. 3's.
There is a "shelf" on the trigger that the end of the Cylinder
Stop sits on. When the hammer is brought back to the first
"click," the trigger will move away from the back of the trigger
guard and that makes this "shelf" move up and the Cylinder
Stop dips down (like a teeter-totter); pivoting about its pin.
When the hammer is brought back to full cock, the trigger
moves back towards the rear of the trigger guard. The "shelf"
moves down and the Cylinder Stop pivots up to engage the
cylinder stop notch (think of the teeter-totter).
If the Cylinder Stop doesn't move up, then something is pre-
venting it. Make sure the trigger moves freely. Also, make sure
the spring is in the correct place and isn't hanging up on the
sides of the cutout in the bottom strap for the Cylinder Stop.
The Cylinder Stop should protrude through the bottom strap
when the hammer is all the way down and at full cock.
Cheers!
Webb
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