Model 10-5 parts problem

oss117

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I picked up a Model 10-5 for the collection. It seemed to function just fine in my cursory pre-purchase inspection, but issues arose at the range.

After a few rounds with no issues, something started catching in the action when pulling the trigger back double action. I also noticed that the cylinder release was free to move fore and aft with the cylinder open. By the next cylinder full of rounds, the action was blocking me from pulling the trigger more than half way.

Back home with the help of schematics and youtube, I removed the side plate and found the bolt plunger and bolt plunger spring were both missing. Hoping this was the solution, I ordered replacement parts from Brownells as well as the tool for removing the rebound slide spring. The parts arrived, I went to work, and found the plunger and plunger spring were too short.

A phone call to Brownells revealed that there was a design change to these components at some point and they did not carry the older longer parts.

So my questions:
1) At what point did S&W change the plunger and spring?
2) Recommendations for a source for the parts?
3) I've seen k frame parts for sale pretty cheap on ebay. Is it possible to replace the bolt/plunger/spring all together or is there hand fitting and other design changes to worry about?

5) And the big one: what are the odds that the missing plunger caused my original issue? looking at the action, it does not appear that these parts serve a purpose when the cylinder is closed.

Thank you!
 
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So my questions:
1) At what point did S&W change the plunger and spring?
2) Recommendations for a source for the parts?
3) I've seen k frame parts for sale pretty cheap on ebay. Is it possible to replace the bolt/plunger/spring all together or is there hand fitting and other design changes to worry about?
5) And the big one: what are the odds that the missing plunger caused my original issue?

1) don't know the answer but I have experienced both versions . . . they appeared to be the same bolt but S&W decided they didn't need to drill the plunger hole as deep so they could get by with a shorter plunger &/or spring
2) I believe I have the proper length plunger & spring . . . PM me with the length of the plunger and spring that Brownell's sent you that is too short and, if possible, measure the depth of the hole in the bolt. For such a small hole I use a sewing needle as a depth gauge and measure to the mark with a dial caliper.
3) don't know that you need to replace the bolt if we can find you the correct plunger & spring
4) not sure what happened to Q4
5) the odds are very high the missing plunger caused the hammer to be blocked . . . that's one of the functions of the bolt when in the forward position.

Russ
 
You ran into an ever increasing problem with buying used handguns. With the proliferation of ***w to do it' u-tube videos, company self interest videos, after market parts with less than well done installations instructions...the number handguns that have been altered unsuccessfully by incompetents is increasing. About 10 years ago I bought a M 66 and was very happy with the performance. The hammer had a imperfection in the checkering so I elected to replace. I opened up the sideplate and was horrified to find that the transfer safety bar was missing. I resolved right then to never buy another used handgun and NOT immediately do an Armorer's inspection and total disassembly. I found two other 'Bubba' changes inside handguns since. ....
 
Quick follow up because I like to see resolutions included in threads like these.

The plunger I ordered from Brownells measured .356". The spring and plunger together measured .654".

Russ (Linde) sent me two springs, one measures 0.525" and the other 0.600", and a longer plunger that (end-to-end) measures 0.494". The combined OAL is 0.925" and 1.000" respectively.

I ended up using the longer combination though both seemed to work in the 10-5. I've since returned the unused parts so he can help out the next guy/gal.

That catch in the action? Turns out I was short stroking the trigger (not letting it come all the way forward to reset). Odd as I've never had that issue on a K-frame before. Live and learn!
 
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