Model 10 conversion

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I recently had this model 10 converted from a 4 inch barrel to a 2 inch barrel by a gunsmith. Looked the gun over when I got it back and it appears to be in good order. I had to ask for the 4" barrel back before I left and just put it in the case and moved on till yesterday. Took out the barrel and it appears to me that who ever took the barrel off did not remove the pin first, threads are completly shot! Any other thoughts??
 

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I would not be happy either.
Maybe they tried to tun it out with pin in, figured it out and then even after the pin was gone the burr caused by the mistake caused that. You might be able to salvage the barrel with a die. Most of the metal is still there just displaced. Hopefully they ran a tap in frame to clean it up before installing new barrel.

I have had much smaller amounts of thread damage when removing a barrel. I away run a die over barrel threads and a tap in frame if I feel any resistance installing.

I had an N frame that I tried repeatedly to get the pin out of. I soaked it for day in penetrating fluid. I warmed it up. I tapped on it both ways, It would not budge. I finally set it up in my mill and carefully drilled it out from both sides, then removed the barrel and didn't get anywhere near that kind of mess.
 
I wouldn't be happy. Your 'smith apparently doesn't know Smiths had barrel pins until the early '80s. I've swapped several myself, but didn't have time for my last cobble of a rough pinned Mod 10 with a rare MI SP 2.5" surp barrel to make a fun truck gun. It turned out great and he didn't bugger the old barrel at all.
I don't see how you can unscrew a pinned barrel with the pin still
in and not bend something!
 
Wow, I am amazed all too often. Does this guy really portray himself to be a gunsmith? What did he have to say as I'd have to ask him how this happened? I'm not a gunsmith at all but I dont see how barrel can be removed with pin in place???
If he in fact did not remove pin before removing barrel, I'd be tempted to "advertise" for him. If you dont wanna post his name, please PM it to me so I can stay away from him.
 
Did the smith who put the barrel on for you tell you he'd had problems removing the original barrel or have you asked?
Steve
 
First, are you planning to reuse the barrel?

If yes, it is salvageable. If no, who cares?

Now, the frame. Is the new barrel a solid fit? At least 3/4 of the threads are intact so it should be usable. As mentioned before, a tap will correct most issues.

Would I be annoyed? Yep, but not the end of the world. I would expect my bill to reflect the error.

Kevin
 
I don't know what to think.
Have you shot it yet?

The reason I'm asking is if he bulled that 4" barrel out past the pin, how did he get the 2"barrel in past the obviously bent up pin?

I'd have it inspected before a test fire.
I'd want to know what was done to dress the frame and pin before the snub barrel went back in.
Thank God you thought to ask for the old barrel.
 
Looking at the damaged bbl, you can see the pin groove and then the threads behind it are torn down /mangled enough to allow the bbl to unscrew. That damage from rolling over the surface of the pin being in place.

Likely the pin was chewed up as well,they are nothing special and are soft.

So:
I would suspect the 2" bbl was either forced into position the last few turns to pass by the still in place pin or what is left of it in the center section of it.
Or,,the threads on the 2" bbl were filed or lathe cut off from the breech end up to the pin cross cut so there would be no interference when threading the new bbl into place.
The bbl threads forward of the pin cross cut are sufficient to hold the bbl in place along with the torque of a good fit up of the bbl shoulder against the frame.

(Look very closely inside the frame at the bbl extending into the cclinder window. See if that small portion of the bbl has any indication of bluing missing from file work being done just ahead of the smooth section you see where the bbl threads start.)

That 4" bbl with the damaged threads, I wouldn't be too sure a die would clock onto whats left of the chewed up threads and recut them and be assured that it would follow perfectly onto the orig threads on the bbl.
There isn't much there to establish a start with the die,,maybe there is.
I would just neatly trim the damaged portion off as above and use the bbl that way.
The bbl pin doesn't really do anything anyway.

Also carefully check the frame for square, any bends or bend-back-in- shape repairs.
Removing the bbl by unscrewing it with the pin in place is a tough one.
S&W frames are touchy when things go right. The extra effort undoing a bbl with the pin in place must have taken some real effort.

Yes I think there needs to be a sit down with Mr. Gunsmith.
 
glad i missed that so called gunsmith when i used to go to gun shows every other table had a so called gunsmith looks like you found one sorry for your loss
 
Will be heading back up to Vermont in a couple of weeks and will be stopping in to question this "job". Will give it a very close inspection and see how it lines up with my other 2 model 10's, hope to shoot it tomorrow.
 
Finally made it back to Vermont this past week and stopped in to see the "gunsmith". He wasn't there so the store owner called him and I spoke with him over the phone. He assured me he did not do that to the barrel as "he has been a gunsmith for 60 years and is very familure with S&W's" and it must have been done by someone else! I told him that the gun has been shot a lot the past few years and there should have been some carbon build up if not some cleaning fluid discoloration from it getting inside if that was the case, the damaged threads are shiney bright so it is recent damage. Conversation was going nowhere so I questioned why the price jumped from a quoted $75 to $140 and was told the store sets the pricing. Took that up with the owner who gave me back $70.
Today I drove the barrel pin out and not damage to it so its a replacement for sure, also noticed that the sight is just slightly canted to the right. For whats its worth, I was a PD armorer for Sig's and H&K MP5's and I do know if its tight or stuck you don't get a bigger hammer. That will be my last trip to this store, still have not shot the gun so maybe this weekend...lessons learned. If anyone knows a reputable gunsmith in NJ or driving distance please let me know. Happy Thanksgiving to all, be healthy. Joe
 

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