I just bought my first J-frame--a very nice looking 36-7. I noticed that the cylinder latch screw was loose when I bought it, so I snugged it down once I got it home. It has made two range trips since then and each time the screw has backed out again. None of my K- or L-frames have ever done this. I am hesitant to put lock-tite on it, but I don't know what else to do. Is this normal with J-frames? Is there something else I could do to keep the screw where it's supposed to be?
Model 36 cylinder latch screw backing out
- Thread starter Mzuri
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bigggbbruce
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Maybe just a tad tighter.
If the threads on the bolt, and in the thumbpiece nut are cleaned and degreased prior to assembly the nut should stay put. Be sure to tighten with the proper screwdriver.
If blue threadlocker is necessary, please follow the instructions given in the previous posts. The problem can be made dramatically worse if the threadlocker liquid wicks down into the action.
If blue threadlocker is necessary, please follow the instructions given in the previous posts. The problem can be made dramatically worse if the threadlocker liquid wicks down into the action.
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75Vette
Member
It's always a good idea to check the tightness of all screws after each outing. Sideplate screws, main spring screw & even the front screw on the rear sight. I'd shy away from locktite. If you have to, use clear nail polish.
ContinentalOp
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I EDC a 642 and do a daily function check to make sure all the screws and nuts are tight.
Clean and degrease the threads on the nut and make sure it's tightened snugly.
These steps were not enough to keep the cylinder latch nut on my gun from loosening, so I did end up using a small amount of blue loctite (purple would likely be better). However, I used a very small amount and did what I could to keep it from possibly wicking down into the action.
What I did was put a drop of loctite on a paper towel. I took a toothpick and just touched the tip of it to the drop. I used the toothpick to apply it to the threads inside the nut, NOT on the bolt (putting it on the bolt might increase the chances of loctite getting into the action, as slim as that chance might be). I then tightened the nut snugly and laid the gun down on it's left side, with the cylinder release latch on the bottom, again to prevent loctite from getting into the action. I left it overnight to make sure it fully cured. A function test in the morning showed all was well. I did this nearly two years ago and daily carry, regular dry fire practice, and live fire range visits have not caused it to loosen at all in that time and I have not experienced any function/reliability issues.
Try to avoid using loctite if you can, but if you must then I think the procedure I used will go a long way towards preventing any problems.
Clean and degrease the threads on the nut and make sure it's tightened snugly.
These steps were not enough to keep the cylinder latch nut on my gun from loosening, so I did end up using a small amount of blue loctite (purple would likely be better). However, I used a very small amount and did what I could to keep it from possibly wicking down into the action.
What I did was put a drop of loctite on a paper towel. I took a toothpick and just touched the tip of it to the drop. I used the toothpick to apply it to the threads inside the nut, NOT on the bolt (putting it on the bolt might increase the chances of loctite getting into the action, as slim as that chance might be). I then tightened the nut snugly and laid the gun down on it's left side, with the cylinder release latch on the bottom, again to prevent loctite from getting into the action. I left it overnight to make sure it fully cured. A function test in the morning showed all was well. I did this nearly two years ago and daily carry, regular dry fire practice, and live fire range visits have not caused it to loosen at all in that time and I have not experienced any function/reliability issues.
Try to avoid using loctite if you can, but if you must then I think the procedure I used will go a long way towards preventing any problems.
The Loctite that J.D. uses is a good choice. That is the low strength or "purple" Loctite even though it's color is easily confused with the red high strength Loctite.
The "blue" Loctite is a good choice also, it is lower in strength than the "red" and higher than the "purple".
The red can be too aggressive and result in damaged screws and even broken screwdrivers from attempts to remove screws later. The secret to relaxing the grip of any Loctite is to apply heat but that can be difficult to do in some instances and even dangerous to the object the screw is in.
And to apply it to the "hollow screw looking tubular nut" that holds the cylinder in place on a "J" model needs to be done carefully. I would put a tiny drop on a piece of glass, then dip a round toothpick in that and carefull apply a small amount to the inside of the tubular nut. A barely visible amount will work, more is not better and even dangerous to other parts in the area.
Jack
The "blue" Loctite is a good choice also, it is lower in strength than the "red" and higher than the "purple".
The red can be too aggressive and result in damaged screws and even broken screwdrivers from attempts to remove screws later. The secret to relaxing the grip of any Loctite is to apply heat but that can be difficult to do in some instances and even dangerous to the object the screw is in.
And to apply it to the "hollow screw looking tubular nut" that holds the cylinder in place on a "J" model needs to be done carefully. I would put a tiny drop on a piece of glass, then dip a round toothpick in that and carefull apply a small amount to the inside of the tubular nut. A barely visible amount will work, more is not better and even dangerous to other parts in the area.
Jack
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