Model 48 chamber polishing

[PaulDoc]

After going through previous threads and researching this particular model I am fully aware of its unique traits. After firing at range (which was awesome BTW) I experienced the hard extraction after first 6. Managed to clear and cleaned as was suggested in past posts. Fired again both single and double action and shot wonderful. My question is if I'm going to bring this firearm to the range not alot but it's not going to sit in the safe unused, would you suggest lightly polishing the cylinder chambers or would you just deal with the cleaning ritual and tough extraction? Second question is can the polishing be done by a novice? It's a 4" no dash in great condition and I would hate to f it up. Again I don't mind the maintenance required while shooting at the range just wondering if it's worth polishing. Thanks to all for your help. Paul

 

[jake1945]

That's the 22 WMR? Some crocus paper around a bore brush will do it. Crocus paper is a fine polishing sandpaper.

 

[PaulDoc]

That's the 22 WMR? Some crocus paper around a bore brush will do it. Crocus paper is a fine polishing sandpaper.

What grit do you suggest?

 

[Protocall_Design]

I would get a 1/4" diameter, 320 grit flex hone. Dip it in oil, then run it with a cordless drill. That is most likely to give you the best results, and would take 10 - 15 minutes. Clean up with brake parts cleaner or Acetone. Leave chambers dry, oil outside.

 

[Kp321]

Brush Research, aka Flex Hone, makes a hone specifically for 22 magnum in 400 and 800 grits. I also use it on 22 LR chambers successfully. Just be sure to use their proprietary honing oil to extend the life of the hone.
On another question, crocus cloth is crocus cloth, no grit designation. It is the finest emery cloth available and will polish without changing dimensions of the part.

 

[wbraswell]

I'd start with getting a good solvent and running a patch with it in the chambers and letting it sit for a little while, maybe 20 min. then give it a scrubbing with a brush, then another patch with a little solvent and then patches to clean it, or repeat above steps. My 17-4 was hard to load and eject, until I finally got it clean, and then it was a dream.

 

[steelslaver]

IF I need to hone something I get a piece of tubing smaller than the hole, (you could use a solid rod) then split one end of it using a band saw, a regular hack saw will work. Then, I stick a piece of appropriate grit emery sand or crocus cloth in the slit and make it wrap so the grit is exposed and the length is such that it will fit tight in the hole. Chuck in drill apply some fine oil in hole and polish.

I n this case I would try the serious clean step first.I also own a 22 mag reamer though

 

[Rpg]

Smith's tight chambers in 22's and 22magnum have always been tight. Polishing is the best way to fix it. That's the method my gunsmith has used for many years on my Smith 22's.

I could probably do it myself, but I don't have a drill press which helps keep things from wobbling and helps avoid the possibility of polishing irregular divots in the chamber that can occur when using a hand held drill.

 

[PaulDoc]

Smith's tight chambers in 22's and 22magnum have always been tight. Polishing is the best way to fix it. That's the method my gunsmith has used for many years on my Smith 22's.

I could probably do it myself, but I don't have a drill press which helps keep things from wobbling and helps avoid the possibility of polishing irregular divots in the chamber that can occur when using a hand held drill.

Thanks for that bit of foresight. I do not have a drill press either. I'm going to give another good cleaning and make sure it is plenty dry under ejection star.