Model 627 is an eyesore!
- Thread starter Marinerman
- Start date
"Actually, polishing out the trigger and hammer would be a great improvement over the faux case hardened finish. I did that to my 686-6 and am very pleased with the look (actually almost as nice looking as my Rugers). Even if it is MIM rather than stainless (don't really know), it looks great."
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It's not fake, and the trigger and hammer are case hardened for a reason - to maintain a very hard surface for the trigger/sear interface to keep it crisp for years, while keeping the metal underneath the surface soft enough to not become brittle.
If you feel the need to polish these two parts, leave the parts inside the gun alone.
Esse quam videri.
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It's not fake, and the trigger and hammer are case hardened for a reason - to maintain a very hard surface for the trigger/sear interface to keep it crisp for years, while keeping the metal underneath the surface soft enough to not become brittle.
If you feel the need to polish these two parts, leave the parts inside the gun alone.
Esse quam videri.
at_liberty
Member
I didn't record references, but to say the triggers and hammers are real hammer forged, case hardened material conflicts with other information I recall.
Why would I molest parts that aren't visible?
OP
Marinerman
Member
My pistol doesn't look anything like yours, so please don't compare with my "eyesore". My pistol is much darker and without the sheen yours has. I'm hoping to get my pistol as nice as yours. Thanks for posting the picture BTW.Model 627 is an eyesore!...False
stantheman86
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They're tools! Just use them and shoot them
Warpspasm
Member
If I just wanted my pistols only as tools I'd buy a Hi-Point... or a Glock! 
schneiderguy
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I'd much rather have the glass bead matte finish than the ugly brushed stainless S&W uses nowadays.
Hook686
US Veteran
Does using the lead away cloth take any metal off the face of the cylinder ? Does the cylinder gap increase any by scrubbing the face of the cylinder to remove all those blemishes from the powder ?
warf73
Member
Here is one dolled up
I'm giving serious thought into sending mine off to have it polished up like that one. At $175 its not great but isn't that bad either.
The gun in the pic isn't a 627 but is a Pro gun so he said in the email.
I'm giving serious thought into sending mine off to have it polished up like that one. At $175 its not great but isn't that bad either.
The gun in the pic isn't a 627 but is a Pro gun so he said in the email.
I had a 627, very nice looking revolver but the guy who approved the "357 MAG-8 Times" stamp on the barrel should be flogged.
8 times.
8 times.
RV4driver
US Veteran
The lead-away cloth isn't particularly abrasive, so it doesn't affect the cylinder gap. If you started using a wire brush or something on the cylinder face it could over time affect the gap. My 686+ gap is over spec from the factory, but it's the most accurate handgun I own, except maybe the Hammerli target .22.
The cylinder on my 686 is stainless, and the brush I use on it is phosphor bronze, so I'm not really concerned about dimensional changes.
The cylinder on my 686 is stainless, and the brush I use on it is phosphor bronze, so I'm not really concerned about dimensional changes.
I don't mean to hurt anyone's eyes with this low quality cellphone pic, but i have to show off the 627s...took possession of the V-Comp today.
BTHG
Member
This is about the aesthetics of the pistol. Always liked the style of the Smith revolvers, all the classics, but I'm having trouble getting used to that "flange" that connects the forward edge of the ejector rod housing to the front of the barrel. Reminds me a bit of the old Remington single action, that featured the distinctive "wing" beneath the barrel. Not sure what, if any, purpose it serves. Unlike the under lug on the "L" frame, and the Colt Python, that stabilizes the shooting platform and helps dampen recoil, don't know that it has any real utility. Matter of taste, I guess. I wonder how other shooters feel about it? The extra rounds in the cylinder, on the other hand, a great idea.
The case hardening is real.
The materials on triggers is usually the same, however, the methods can differ.
I have only heard that buffing or polishing the case hardening off the MIM triggers and hammers expose the softer metal and they will wear faster with it removed.
at_liberty
Member
Except that, again, the polishing was only on the visible parts, not the internals that are subject to wear.
As far as case hardening, I don't care if it is real or not. It is an ugly mismatch on a stainless gun.
jtcarm
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Stoning, buffing, polishing of the internals are what's done in an action job. It won't even damage real case hardening, unless it's way overdone with too coarse of a stone (I'm pretty ham-handed and I've never ruined one.) MIM and case-hardened parts can be done the same way with the same materials (except the little bump on a MIM trigger that contacts the cylinder stop.)
Someone asked earlier about buffing with sandpaper. You can buy silicone carbide (wet or dry) at an auto parts store (at least here in N. TX) in grits from 220 to 2000. I've used it for decades to hone my WW tools (chisels, etc.). I also use it to hone action parts.
Polish a flat steel surface to about 800 grit and you can use it as a mirror. Polish to 2000 and you might not want to take it out in the sun without a welders mask.
The OP could polish the hammer/trigger for less than $10. But don't touch the sears, etc, unless you know exactly what you're doing. Even then, never touch the SA sear. It could also be done with a Dremel, cloth wheel, and the appropriate rouge or polish.
Kinda contrary: most folks only want to polish the non-visible parts of the hammer & trigger
Watchdog
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So you didn't actually eyeball a real 627 Pro before buying one, you just looked at photos of one? And now that you have it, you blame S&W because it's "ugly"?
Okay.
