Model 63 22LR 4" issues

[SW CQB 45]

I bought a Model 63 a couple of years ago to give to my child when ready.

I have never fired it or played with it.

If I had to guess, this gun was new. (came with everything in the box)

I loaded 6 hi vel rounds and noticed (for the first time) the rounds were tight to load in the cylinder. (the gun was cleaned and lubed by me)

I closed the cylinder and fired 6 rounds at 25 yds on a steel diamond. I got 6 rings of steel...YES! no problems.

ejection, no problem.

I loaded 6 more (tight to load the cyl again) and the gun would not cycle. I had to help spin the cylinder to rotate. accuracy is there but something is preventing cylinder movement.

I can see daylight between the forcing cone and cylinder, but appears tight on the back plate (not sure if thats the correct name) and cylinder. can anyone give me some direction?

what about the tight cylinders? is this normal? I can only compare to my 1949 pre model 17 that does not have those issues.

thanks in advance

 

[SW CQB 45]

I bought a Model 63 a couple of years ago to give to my child when ready.

I have never fired it or played with it.

If I had to guess, this gun was new. (came with everything in the box)

I loaded 6 hi vel rounds and noticed (for the first time) the rounds were tight to load in the cylinder. (the gun was cleaned and lubed by me)

I closed the cylinder and fired 6 rounds at 25 yds on a steel diamond. I got 6 rings of steel...YES! no problems.

ejection, no problem.

I loaded 6 more (tight to load the cyl again) and the gun would not cycle. I had to help spin the cylinder to rotate. accuracy is there but something is preventing cylinder movement.

I can see daylight between the forcing cone and cylinder, but appears tight on the back plate (not sure if thats the correct name) and cylinder. can anyone give me some direction?

what about the tight cylinders? is this normal? I can only compare to my 1949 pre model 17 that does not have those issues.

thanks in advance

 

[wheelgun610]

Assuming the cylinder rotates normally when empty, check under the ejector star for powder residue. Check the rim recess for each chamber to be sure they're all clean and burr free. Are the case heads rubbing on the recoil shield?

Tight chambers aren't unheard of on S&W .22 revolvers. Some brands of ammo might also be tighter than others. Polishing the chambers with something like 'Flitz' has been known to open them up without going overboard.

Mark

 

[stevieboy]

Will the cylinder cycle without any rounds in it? If so, then the likely problem is that a round or rounds are not fully inserted and they are making contact with the recoil shield, thereby preventing free rotation.

The fact that the cylinders are "tight" suggests that may be the problem.

Try brushing out the chambers vigorously.
Even a little powder residue in them can make it difficult to insert new rounds fully. Then, when you insert your rounds carefully make sure that each is fully inserted (the rim of the case must be flush against the recessed rim of each chamber).

If that doesn't work, then, obviously, the problem lies elsewhere. As another poster has already suggested the extractor star may be pushed out if there's dirt or grit under it. That's a common problem and the cure is simple, just clean thoroughly under the star.

22s are notoriously prone to the type of problem you describe. It's due to the fact that 22 rounds are, when compared to other calibers, very dirty. Keeping the gun clean is really important with this caliber.

 

[mkk41]

Yep , some ammo is tighter than others. I like to shoot mine indoors with .22 Colibris , and they are tight. Same thing with my Mod.18 too.

 

[ol timer]

If the revolver has ever been dry fired, it can result in the problem you are experiencing. You might check the charge hole recess area.

Good luck,
ot

 

[steveno]

my M-17 & M-63 will only shoot winchester powerpoints and cci velocitors without any problems. all bets are off on anything else. they can be finicky. as also mentioned make sure it is clean and when you eject empties make sure you eject them straight down

 

[CherryRiver]

.22 revolvers sticking up because of crud underneath the star, at the chamber mouths, or in the rim recesses is very common. But I couldn't help but wonder if the ejector rod had unscrewed a bit, a common Smith revolver thing that can tie up a gun, too.

 

[Camster]

All good advice.
Experiment with different brands of ammo.If you're using a particularly tight brand,you can have an issue if the round is not fully seated.
You might also function test with shorts-less cartridge to bind in the chambers,though using them will make for tight chambers when using long rifles-the chambers should be cleaned after using shorts.

 

[jimgoldth]

Originally posted by Camster:
All good advice.
Experiment with different brands of ammo.If you're using a particularly tight brand,you can have an issue if the round is not fully seated.
You might also function test with shorts-less cartridge to bind in the chambers,though using them will make for tight chambers when using long rifles-the chambers should be cleaned after using shorts.

I once had a model 34 with tight chambers and the only ammo I found that would work for more than 2 cylinders full of ammo were the yellow box Winchester / Western high Speed 22 LR without running a brush thwough every chamber between rounds. I tried a considerable number of brands that did not work well. I finally swapped it for a model 63 which was more forgiving of different brands of .22 Ammo.

 

[Ailog]

Another possibility is the yoke barrel is a touch too long. Check if there is any cylinder end shake when the gun is cold. If there is not, then it is probably too tight and will get even tighter when the gun gets hot.

 

[SW CQB 45]

thanks for the info.

I started with a clean/lubed, probably brand new gun.

the rounds were tight going into a fresh unfired cylinder.

I had noticed prior to firing (just cycling without complete hammer fall) and thumbing back to single action, sort of a rough or jagged feeling with thumb cocking.

even with dbl action, but catching the hammer to prevent firing pin tatooing of the cylinder some rough trigger stroke on at least two cylinders.

my first 6 shots went relatively easy firing dbl action. the next cylinder full was trouble.

I will inspect under the star, but I have not cleaned it, but was thumbing it at work today and it was not bound up.

I did notice the back of the cylinder is very close to the back plate.

I will investigate further.

thanks to all.

 

[VonFatman]

One reason I don't keep S&W rimfires around...the extraction is a pain unless you scrub the cylinders while shooting.

Bob

 

[SW CQB 45]

underneath the star is clean.

the cylinder is extremely tight with no observable movement either fwd or rwd.

the ejector rod is tight.

the trigger pull dbl action is decent with no cylinder.

the trigger pull is rough and jagged with the cylinder closed in place.

I push the cylinder fwd (finger pressure) while stroking the trigger seems to clean up the trigger pull with the cylinder closed.

so is my cylinder yoke (i think thats what you call it) too long???????????

thanks in advance

 

[wheelgun610]

Originally posted by SW CQB 45:

.... the trigger pull is rough and jagged with the cylinder closed in place.

so is my cylinder yoke (i think thats what you call it) too long???????????

I'd take a look at the 'ratchet' where the hand engages it to turn the cylinder. Check for burrs on each 'tooth'. The hand could also be just a tad long, or could have a tiny burr. Either of these could cause the action to be 'jerky'. If the hand has 'too sharp' of a point, it could be causing it to dig in to the teeth on the ratchet. Sort of a vicious circle effect.

Know any good revolver-smiths? Probably not a difficult fix for a good 'smith.

If that ain't it, I'm out of ideas.

Mark

P.S., Does the cylinder spin freely when it's open? A couple twists with a piece of Scotch-Brite on the yoke barrel (the 'axle' the cylinder spins on), and a small drop of oil (on the yoke barrel - before putting the cylinder back on) wouldn't hurt anything....

 

[SW CQB 45]

thanks for the info WG610.

I have got a return slip for my Shorty 45 and I am thinking about throwing the 63 in the same box to go back to the factory.

I just want to call them first, but I think they are closed for the holidays as I cannot get anyone to answer.

 

[s&wchad]

I don't know if you've pulled the cylinder and yoke to clean and lube it, but you might want to make sure there's nothing gunked up on the front end. If you're not familiar, here's how (I know you're familiar with autoloaders).

Carefully remove the front sideplate screw. Swing open the cylinder, lay the gun flat on a table and pull the yoke out the front while holding the cylinder with the other hand.

Clean and lightly lube everything and make sure there's no lead fragments or fouling between the front of the cylinder and the yoke that would keep the cylinder from fully seating.

Ps. Thanks for the help with your namesake on the autoloader side!

 

[SW CQB 45]

Originally posted by s&wchad:
I don't know if you've pulled the cylinder and yoke to clean and lube it, but you might want to make sure there's nothing gunked up on the front end. If you're not familiar, here's how (I know you're familiar with autoloaders).

Carefully remove the front sideplate screw. Swing open the cylinder, lay the gun flat on a table and pull the yoke out the front while holding the cylinder with the other hand.

Clean and lightly lube everything and make sure there's no lead fragments or fouling between the front of the cylinder and the yoke that would keep the cylinder from fully seating.

Ps. Thanks for the help with your namesake on the autoloader side!

SW thanks for the info.

When I first got the gun, it was bone dry. I tore it completely down and lubricated it.

the internals are good to go.

I did notice the star is rough looking.

are you going to shoot the CQB??

 

[s&wchad]

I plan on firing it within the next two weeks when I have RO duty at the range (indoor). I'll shoot it and go from there, but I doubt it will become a carry gun. I took it apart and cleaned it and it's fitted closer than most target guns I've seen. It's a pretty impressive pistol, but I am surprised it didn't come with night sights.

 

[SW CQB 45]

Originally posted by s&wchad:
but I am surprised it didn't come with night sights.

something a fighting gun should have come with!

 

[palser64]

I had the same problem with a model 63 and never could get it right. I tried all of the suggestions that were mentioned here. I finally got frustrated with it and traded the gun off for a model 17-2. Hope you have better luck with yours.

 

[CherryRiver]

I've had my 63 for four years and it's a good gun, but it does get finicky. That's characteristic of any rimfire revolver, in my experience.
My 63 was a replacement for my beloved old blue 34 four-inch, which I sold during a divorce in '79, to my considerable disappointment.
The 34 wasn't quite as touchy about cleanliness and gave less trouble.
One can't help but wonder that the 63 was discontinued, like the 940, another J-frame with a spotty record.
Among my other .22 revolvers, my Colt Trooper is my favorite but still wants the fresh cartridges thumbed into place solidly after about fifty rounds, and my stupid old Taurus 94 nine-shot, practically a throwaway gun, is less trouble than the better Smith and Colt.

 

[SW CQB 45]

thanks to all.

I may end up with a single action model 63.

I do plan to call SW and see if they can fix it.

 

[robiec01]

Check to see if the firing pin is protruding out of the frame slightly and rubbing on the rear of the cylinder. The firing pin should be recessed slightly/even when not hammer down. This condition exists on my new 63 and binds the cylinder. I plan to return it to S&W.

 

[SW CQB 45]

Originally posted by robiec01:
Check to see if the firing pin is protruding out of the frame slightly and rubbing on the rear of the cylinder. The firing pin should be recessed slightly/even when not hammer down. This condition exists on my new 63 and binds the cylinder. I plan to return it to S&W.

thanks robie. I dont think mine does, but I will check.

 

[S&W Revolver Fan]

I also had an older model 63 that I was never happy with and got rid of. I did end up with one of the new 5" 63 stainless revolvers through some trades. The new revolver will function perfect with any of the different 22 ammo I can find. Nothing loads hard and ejection is very easy with everything. I probably put 2500 rounds through it before cleaning it and it was still problem free. I shoot this gun every weekend and only cleaned it because it was getting quite dirty from the powder fouling on its exterior. I think the new guns have larger
chambers as on mine the rounds just drop in. No swelling or split cases either.

Hope this helps!

 

[TNDave]

It would not hurt to send it back to S&W to let them take a look at it. My Model 34 was very tight when I got it and acted finicky at first. It shot in after a few hundred rounds and hasn't given me any trouble since. A gun has to have a little endshake for the cylinder to turn. It sounds like your gun is very tight and your ammo has thick rims.

 

[H Richard]

I assume you checked that the ejector rod is fully tightened up. .22 RF ammo is notorious for variations is dimensions. Rim thickness can cause your problem. I suggest you try several brands of ammo, and find one that works reliable and stick with it. I have a 17-4 that was ultra tight. The chambers were very snug. I took a lubing mop and some jewelers rouge on my cordless drill. Polished the insides of the chambers, and significantly improved the problem.

 

[SW CQB 45]

thanks for the additional info.

the cylinder is tight.

Richard, I did check my ejector rod and its tight. thats a good idea to open up those tight chambers.

I still think I want SW to look at it as it will be for a 10 year old, and a jagged trigger pull in DA is not desired for proper training.

thanks again

 

[RichCapeCod]

I loaded 6 hi vel rounds and noticed (for the first time) the rounds were tight to load in the cylinder.

I have a S&W 63 which I bought new in (I think...)late 1970, maybe early 1980. I had similar issues with the revolver, particularly having trouble inserting shells into the chambers. I gave the revolver to one of the NYPD gunsmiths (I was assigned there at the time -- Ron Kennedy was the gunsmith if memory serves). Ron did a couple of things to the gun but the one modification that I recall is he had to polish the chambers. Solved the difficult to seat rounds problem.

This little gun is a gem and I still shoot and enjoy it.

Hope this helps.

Rich