My 22 LR revolvers are making me a better shot

[ridgewalker]

I have a 6 inch barrel 617 and a 3 inch barrel 63 both chambered in 22 LR. I've only recently acquired both of them. One or both of these revolvers go with me on my range trips which occur weekly on average. I shoot at a 25 yard outdoor range using a 2 handed standing freehand hold, mostly double action. Lately I have been pleased that my accuracy has gotten better and I give a lot of credit for that to the 22's. Now that I have the 22's, I shoot 200-300 rounds with them. I shoot mostly 38 special with a few 357 mag through one of my other revolvers which I rotate in on each range trip. I never felt I was particularly recoil sensitive, but I have found that recoil sensitivity can occur on a unconscious level. In the past, I have found when shooting my revolvers chambered in 357 mag that I would pick them up and get my first 2 or 3 shots very close to the bullseye and then my accuracy would go down from there. This would happen even when shooting the 38 specials. Now what I do when I see my accuracy suffering, I switch off to my 22's and fire a few cylinders of those. Then when I switch back to my 38/357, my accuracy is much more on target. I do this switching back and forth several times. Eventually I find I get into the "zone" and find almost all my 38/357 shots are in the black. Then the shooting just gets really fun and if I switch back to the 22's it is a cost control issue.

I guess a lot of you guys have already figured this out but I just wanted to share my observations. Sure shooting on a weekly basis helps. But recently I went through a period of a few months where my lower back was giving me a lot of pain. I still went to the range but my accuracy had really worsened. My back has improved a lot and shooting the 22's has improved my accuracy. Being able to shoot a few hundred rounds of 22 helps but I really attribute the almost total lack of recoil and the much less loud bang of the 22 with helping me learn better gun and trigger control on the unconscious level which as I have described, I can carry over to my center fire revolvers.

 

[fyimo]

Yes it does help improve your shooting and besides it's a blast.

 

[hangnoose]

22 LR

The absolute best training, confidence builder, skill maintainer, flinch remover ever! for novice thru expert. what other caliber can you afford to shoot 500 rounds in one outing?

 

[2hawk]

I concur with all of the above.

 

[lscocoa]

I love the .22 but I wish the dag horders would lighten up a little so I can start shooting my .22's . Its a good thing I casted a lot of .44's and loaded my plinkers or I'd be in trouble .

 

[BigBill]

My wife went thru the ccw training course last year and she shoots in double action with her Taurus m94 in 22lr. Someday I'll move her up to the s&w k38 combat masterpiece in 38 special.

 

[SgtLumpy]

I too, agree with all the above.

Here's my pair.

M66 and K22. Both 4". Same Pachy grips on both. Weight nearly the same, the 22 is 0.6oz lighter when loaded than the 66 with 158gr bullets.

Sgt Lumpy

 

[S&W1006]

I saw a huge improvement in my accuracy after I purchased my 617. It not only made me a better shot but I fell in love with revolvers in general. After I pick up my 686 5" Talo that I have on layaway I will have more revolvers than semi auto's. Plus I have more revolvers on my wish list than anything now.

 

[Abbynormal]

Welcome to 1950

 

[MX5Fan]

I finally found a 617 4 inch, after looking for awhile. I picked it up Friday, went to the range, Saturday and I think I'm in love! This is my first revolver, as I've always been a semi auto girl and I can't believe how terrific this Smith is. No recoil, heavy with a perfect fit in my hands, shoots much better then I do and it's truly a thing of beauty. Now, I know what all you revolver guys have been talking about. I'm pretty sure the 686 4 inch is next up on my "want" list. I'm even thinking about concealed carry with a 3 inch revolver, who knows, but what I do know is the 617 is a great gun! :thumbup:




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[Green Frog]

I love the .22 but I wish the dag horders would lighten up a little so I can start shooting my .22's . Its a good thing I casted a lot of .44's and loaded my plinkers or I'd be in trouble .

True That! If my K-22 and HFT were living things, they would be losing weight from the diet they are on. I'm having to conserve what 22s I have to the point where each range trip gets only 50 or so rounds expended instead of a couple hundred or more.

I was fortunate enough to be in a buying/stocking up phase just before the panic began, so I have enough to get me through (at the current rate of use) for a few more months. I sure hope things loosen up by late Fall, though.

Froggie

 

[Sebring Pop]

Works on autos also.

 

[Bat Guano]

M18 and ball and dummy. Best practice in the world and (relatively) cheap. Repeat as desired.

 

[66Park]

Do you want REALLY low recoil/report - for CHEAP?!?!?!?!

Do some dry firing (using snap caps)! No recoil. No noise.

Put a coin on top of the gun, and see how many double action trigger squeezes you can perform without dropping the coin. My first try, the coin fell with every trigger squeeze. After many, many tries, I can often go 18 dry fires without dropping the coin. This is a really great way to master the double action trigger pull. No, I did not think up this process; I read about this technique in books by classic gun writers.

Yes. Except do not do this with a rimfire!

 

[eveled]

Do you want REALLY low recoil/report - for CHEAP?!?!?!?!

Do some dry firing (using snap caps)! No recoil. No noise.

Put a coin on top of the gun, and see how many double action trigger squeezes you can perform without dropping the coin. My first try, the coin fell with every trigger squeeze. After many, many tries, I can often go 18 dry fires without dropping the coin. This is a really great way to master the double action trigger pull. No, I did not think up this process; I read about this technique in books by classic gun writers.

Laser bullets are awesome too. I load one laser bullet then the rest snap caps and practice shooting in my basement. It really helps with point shooting.

The OP stumbled on my favorite thing, matching a .22 with a big brother. Or better yet a big gun and a .22 conversion kit. Great cheap fun, and a great way to train and teach kids. Ed

Here is my S&W 627 and 617

My Ruger SP101 6shot .22, and my GP100

My Wilson Combat (Marvel) .22 conversion on my SR1911

I try to match up my rifles too.

 

[Hellraiser]

My wife's... lower, right-hand corner.

We draw "eyeballs" on milk jugs... and at 15 feet... she can shoot the eyes out. I have to be sober and not wake her up when I come home.

 

[BigBill]

I like shooting the 22's for practice. Then I mix up the 38 special rounds with the 357 magnum rounds in the revolver. This will bring us to the next level in accuracy.

I can shoot clover leafs with my 1911 at 25yds. In 45acp.

 

[66Park]

66park, I know that one risks peeing the back of the cylinder if one dry fires rimfire revolvers. However, if snap caps are used, doesn't that make it damage-free on the revolver to dry fire even a rimfire revolver?

I advocate the use of snap caps whenever dry firing a gun.

It should be fine with good snap caps. It is definitely NOT fine to dry fire a rimfire on an empty cylinder.

 

[Hellraiser]

I like shooting the 22's for practice. Then I mix up the 38 special rounds with the 357 magnum rounds in the revolver. This will bring us to the next level in accuracy.

I can shoot clover leafs with my 1911 at 25yds. In 45acp.

75 feet.... you are a better man than me... but... that ain't sayin' much. I do admire a great shooter.

But there was a time.... just one time... I put seven shots through one hole at 25 feet with only three 1/4" flyers... with my beloved .45's... Heckle and Jeckle. Shootin' with both hands.

Dang... I do love these pistols... so.

^..^

 

[1madss]

I really need to get a .22 K-Frame. A 17 is definitely on my short list. My only 22 revolver at the moment is a 1973 H&R Sportsman. While I do love the gun the DA trigger is really heavy compared to my M10 and M13. I was out a the range today and had been through ~50 rounds in the Sportsman and switched to the M13 and it almost felt like the gun was going off a little early due to the much lighter pull in the M13. But it is a great reminder of how nice the K-Frame triggers are

 

[Hellraiser]

I really need to get a .22 K-Frame. A 17 is definitely on my short list. My only 22 revolver at the moment is a 1973 H&R Sportsman. While I do love the gun the DA trigger is really heavy compared to my M10 and M13. I was out a the range today and had been through ~50 rounds in the Sportsman and switched to the M13 and it almost felt like the gun was going off a little early due to the much lighter pull in the M13. But it is a great reminder of how nice the K-Frame triggers are

1madss Motzart... you will do well with the K-Frame. Please find a Mk II .22 to shoot as well. I have four that have the greatest triggers ever. More firepower, as well.

^..^

 

[ridgewalker]

I am very fond of the trigger of my 617. When shooting double action, it is very easy to squeeze it and hold it to the point just before the hammer drops. There is a very predictable pause, almost a click, at this point in the trigger pull. At this point I take my final, fine aim at the bullseye, then squeeze a tiny bit more which fires the round. Learning this point of the trigger pull and practicing it on my 617, I have since gotten better at finding this point with my 63 and 627.

 

[eveled]

What you are describing is usually called "staging the trigger", or "indexing". It is a controversial habit, some think it is the way to make precise shots, others think it is a bad habit to get into.

I am one of the latter, I like to shoot my double action revolvers in true double action. Just a long straight pull of the trigger. If I wanted to make a precise shot I would cock the hammer manually. (Like if I was really trying to see how it was sighted.)

If I wanted to shoot in single action I would use a single action revolver.

I am not judging you, if it makes you happy to shoot that way, by all means do it. There are people on both sides of the argument. Be safe.

Here is an older thread on the subject, I found it to be amusing, and a good essay on the subject.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/151308-staging-da-trigger-becoming-lost-skill.html

Double action revolvers are the hardest guns to shoot well, but for me they are the most rewarding because of the challenge.

 

[jaymoore]

This old 617 is probably why I did as well when shooting competition.:

When shooting at Ft. Benning, I used to shoot DA targets out to 100 yards regularly. Wasn't so successful engaging the 300m steel plate DA, but it wasn't a big deal to walk them in SA. But the trick is to shoot it until you know you are tiring and quit. Past a certain point nothing is gained. (The current ammo shortage makes it less likely!)

This one revolver has eaten no telling how many 10's of thousands of rounds and is still tight. (Has seen a boatload of dry firing as well, but that's just me...and it has more to do with the individual rimfire firearm than a flaunting of a generally good idea of NOT doing it!)

 

[brucev]

The first and most important handgun anyone will ever buy is a .22 LR revolver or pistol. Why? Because hitting is fundamental. And one can learn to effectively hit a target, i.e., marksmanship skills, with a .22 LR handgun much more efficiently than with any other caliber of handgun available.

I speak from experience. I have owned and shot extensively S&W 18's and Ruger Mk. II's. I positively adore the 18. With it I have learned to shoot SA and... DA! I have at times shot DA groups that were just as good as SA groups. When I pick up a centerfire handgun, the results of shooting the .22 LR handguns carry over.

Developing good skills shooting a handgun requires actual time spent dry-firing and actual time live firing at the range. Dry-fire w/ a centerfire is easy. But the live fire is problematic due to cost, recoil, etc. The .22 LR is ideal for such purposes. It is unequaled.

 

[Erich]

Nothing better for knocking down a flinch, as has been said.

Here's another thing, though.

Good group, right?

Room for improvement, right?

Never mind that both groups are essentially the same size - with the .22s, I see my errors more clearly and am more inclined to strive to do better.

 

[BigBill]

75 feet.... you are a better man than me... but... that ain't sayin' much. I do admire a great shooter.

But there was a time.... just one time... I put seven shots through one hole at 25 feet with only three 1/4" flyers... with my beloved .45's... Heckle and Jeckle. Shootin' with both hands.

Dang... I do love these pistols... so.

^..^

I took my norinco 1911 that had a loose barrel bushing in the slide and installed and fitted a new USGI surplus barrel and a national match barrel bushing. The first time out she shoots one clover leaf per 8rd mag using Russian wolf 45 acp ball ammo. I'm sure she will tighten up using my swc target loads. I'm not sure if I should touch the loose frame rail fit or not. The 1911's rock. I did install the full length guide rod with the 18# recoil spring. The 1911 cycles faster and smoother with less recoil and less cycle timing. My son and his girlfriend both shot clover leads with my norinco at 15yds. I was very careful when I fitted the barrel and national match barrel bushing to the slide. I also ramped the disconnector too.

For my low budget norc 1911 build it was $300 for the 1911 and about $100 for the parts. She shoots and cycles like a race gun.

 

[Hellraiser]

I took my norinco 1911 that had a loose barrel bushing in the slide and installed and fitted a new USGI surplus barrel and a national match barrel bushing. The first time out she shoots one clover leaf per 8rd mag using Russian wolf 45 acp ball ammo. I'm sure she will tighten up using my swc target loads. I'm not sure if I should touch the loose frame rail fit or not. The 1911's rock. I did install the full length guide rod with the 18# recoil spring. The 1911 cycles faster and smoother with less recoil and less cycle timing. My son and his girlfriend both shot clover leads with my norinco at 15yds. I was very careful when I fitted the barrel and national match barrel bushing to the slide. I also ramped the disconnector too.

I need to get a smith (like yourself)... to work on my .45's. Apparently, when you are meticulous, careful and exacting with your work, there are big-time payoff's to the outcome. You do good work... and have a great handgun that is exceptional.

^..^

 

[BigBill]

I wanted to see how good a low budget cheap build could be using a surplus $59 barrel, $12 national match barrel bushing, a $9 full length guide rod kit with a 18# recoil spring.

I was extra fussy on fitting the barrel assembly. I gave it every chance to shoot good if the barrel was good. The accuracy surprised me too.

Actually this is my first build. I purchased all the 1911 tools from brownells along with the AGI, WILSON COMBAT and the Jerry K 1911 book and videos about working on the 1911's and how to build them. Being a class A machine builder for decades how hard could it be? I even built the 155mm howitzers for the US Army were using in the sand box today. My next build will be building a complete 1911.

 

[spad124]

66park, I know that one risks peeing the back of the cylinder if one dry fires rimfire revolvers. However, if snap caps are used, doesn't that make it damage-free on the revolver to dry fire even a rimfire revolver?

I advocate the use of snap caps whenever dry firing a gun.

On the Rimfire Central forum I picked up a way to make snap caps for 22 LR. Take a small plastic wall anchor- the kind that is tapered and has a flange to keep it from going all the way into the wall. Shave down the outside of the tapered part of the anchor if necessary to fit into a 22LR chamber and use as a snap cap. The flange keeps the anchor from going all the way into the barrel- like the rim on a 22LR. More important, the flange also cushions the firing pin and keeps it from striking the breech when you dryfire. You might have to rotate the anchor every once in a while.

It's worked for me. Also, I now just store my 22LRs with the anchor/snapcaps in them so I can release the firing pin spring for storage. Because of the flange, the extractor pulls the anchor out when the action is worked.