My first squib

My introduction to squibs was a .45 reload, in an effort to develop a light load. One shot (Smith 645) sounded odd, and short cycled. Racked in another round, and this one kicked. Yes, it ringed the barrel, still have it in the shop. Learned my lesson, I hope.
A buddy grenaded a 3" M60, with his own reloads. It was Bullseye. Blew out the top strap, and 1/3 of the cylinder. He contacted Smith; they said a double charge wouldn't blow up the gun, and a triple won't fit. Smith was supportive about getting him a replacement, though it wasn't free.
Personal theory, it wasn't too much powder, but perhaps too little. The guy ran out of primers, and loaded some rounds without them. They doubtless dribbled powder until he seated primers. Ever hear of detonation with Bullseye? Apparently it can't be replicated in the lab, but a combination of a small charge in a big case has been known to do strange things.
Have a long suffering Dillon 550, with a retrofit positive powder return. Never had a powder charge hang up, but as a PP noted, something that interrupts things (a primer draw thru, split case, whatever) you have to patiently get things back in order, so a charge isn't skipped or doubled.
Moon
 
I once bought plated target bullets that had long bearing surface for my Model 19. I loaded according to the directions that was with the bullets. I got one that stuck in the barrel unnoticed, fired another round and noticed increased recoil. Didn't think much iof it until I got home and began cleaning the bore. It now had a noticeable barrel bulge. The revolver was minty until this happened. I would up selling it even though it still shot okay.
 
I reload mostly .38, +P, .357. I use a Lee 4 hole turret but, do not use the auto rotate feature. After cleaning I'll size/decap, measure the case and clean primer pockets. Those are put in bags. When I reload I'll weigh the case/primer together - press in the primer - powder fill and re-weigh it to verify the load. Those go into the holder. After 50 i'll stand and verify all cases look like the same fill. Then insert bullet/crimp (taper crimps are usually .002-.003" deep) , measure OAL. Those go into boxes. I had 2 squibs a few years ago but, reloading in this sequence I haven't had one since. I'm in no hurry to marathon load. I'll usually have a ball game or old western on the tv while I do it.
 
Is it not horrible to admit your sins to a group which has many who believe that there is a Just World, and that good things happen to good people and bad things things happen to evil people?

Ideological and judgmental attitudes really don't help advance a safety culture.

It is my opinion that all processes have the potential for error, and some processes are more error prone than others. My Dillion 550B does not provide for illumination of the charged case. So when I have problems, such as primer misfeed, tipped bullet in the seating die, off center case crunch in the seating die, etc, I can't see the powder level in the case. After clearing such process problems in a Dillion, some of which are simple, some much more complicated, the lack of powder charge verification (along with confirmation bias) is a potential error source for squibs. If I was perfect, I would always follow some "clear the decks" procedure, but of course, perfection is for the devine.

It is good to see that the market has responded, there are lot of Dillion 550B illumination kits available which allow the reloader to look down and see if there is powder in the case. This should help identify double charges in short pistol cases, which is also a real possiblity.

Anyway, just look at your reloading practice, see where there could be error prone processes, and look to see if there are people already addressing the issue with aftermarket parts.

As for squibs, I have seen a number of them, and had two. The first squib was due to weak mainsprings, cold weather, and a ball powder in a 357 case. The pistol I purchased had been owned by a PPC shooter who had fired "60,000" rounds. It worked fine with Bullseye or AA#2 pistol powder and Federal primers. However I poured AA#9, a magnum ball powder in the case, stored a can of ammunition over night in a cold truck, (WSP primer) and given the combination of a tough to ignite ball powder and weak ignition, I had a bullet lodged in the throat. Luckily the cylinder did not turn so that prevented me from firing another round.

I fixed the M586 weak ignition with a new mainspring, and went out in slightly warmer weather with the same ammunition and every round went off with a satisfying big badda boom! Ignition strength is very important and new mainsprings are a great way to ensure strong ignition.

As for squibs at 2700 Bullseye matches, I have seen two. The first was a bullet in the throat which prevented the next round from feeding, the next was a bullet in the middle of the barrel. If you ever jack an empty from your autopistol, always stop right there and don't even think of firing another round. Drop the magazine, (clear the chamber!), and drop the long 5/16" or 1/4" drift rod you have with you, or that cleaning rod you always have at the range. (Hint, hint, have a long brass drift or cleaning rod with you) Ole Joe had a squib during a match, and he is an wise old shooter, he knew that he had to investigate to see if there was a bullet in the barrel after jacking an empty out of the chamber. Ole Joe also had a long brass drift which proved there was a bullet in that there barrel. He removed the 1911 barrel from the slide, found a block of wood, and beat the bullet out using a wooden bench as a rest. Ole Joe reassembled his 1911 and continued with the match. Now the thing is, as I can verify, the shooter does not necessarily notice a weak recoil, or a weak blast. Another shooter, Jim, verified that: the shooter behind grabbed him and stopped him from firing the next round in his 1911. The shooter behind Jim noticed the lack of muzzle blast and knew that portended a squib. And it was a squib with the bullet half way down the barrel. Jim was grateful for the intervention and help.

There have been lots of squibs in revolvers where the bullet went half way down the barrel, the shooter did not notice that the recoil and blast were off, and continued to fire until the barrel was full of bullets. Such is life. I was lucky as my M586 squib stopped the rotation of the cylinder. At the time I was not as paranoid about squibs as I am now, and I was not carrying brass drifts with me out to the range. Now I am.

My second squib, was with a 1911 during a 2700 Bullseye match. I did not notice that the recoil and blast were all that different. Of course there were a lot of bangs going around. I jacked out an empty, and I really thought I saw the hole on the target. (I was wrong), and the next round bulged the barrel. I had not been carrying brass drifts in my pistol box, and was not thinking about squibs as I have never ever had a case without the correct powder charge. Hubris created an attitude that my ammunition had to be perfect. I was wrong. That cost me $600 to get my Les Baer Wadcutter fixed, it did not leave the factory till it placed ten shots inside two inches at 50 yards. I also don’t trust my reloading procedures as much as I did before and I did start using a light on my Dillion 550B.
 
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Well, Knock on wood I have never had a squib, But I am wondering how hard it is to remove the squib from a revolver with a drift and what is the proper procedure to do so without damaging the revolver? I reload quite a bit of ammo and I have caught myself missing a charge on a few occasions, I pass my finished ammo across a scale before i crimp as a final step and I load everything single stage. All that being said Ill probably get a squib at my next range session. Thanks for any replies.
 
You can use an RCBS lock out die to prevent either a no load or double charge when reloading off a progressive die. If you do get a squib, a 5/16th brass rod is the best thing to use on a 38/357 0r 9mm barrel, as it won't harm the rifling and pretty much fills the bore.
 
Having reloaded for 40+yrs, I have had squib loads! This usually results in the end of the shooting session and retiring to the shop to clear the stuck bullet! However, on one of these experiences I fired a 44 mag, close to max load, heard and felt the squib! I laid the gun down and observed unburnt powder, H110(ball powder), running out of the BC gap! I was never able to determine the cause! Was it a bad primer, bad powder, tumbling media stuck in the primer hole, or just plain operator error?
jcelect
I too have had squibs with H110. Come to find out after about a 3 year i-net search, H110 (when used in larger loads) needs a magnum primer. Lesser primers may or may not ignite the powder
 
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